What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Don't ditch the overload!

In my experience with these HD leafs, you won't have enough flex in the opposing side for the "full droop" to matter at all - you won't ever reach that point, no straps needed. Moreover, the sides don't matter cause they're beefy enough not to give a shit about how much fuel you have in your tank. My DC is just about equal on both sides (1/4") with full tank.

Do the extreme off road types that may matter, but I don't think that is who targets an HD spring in the first place?

 

And it's important work, too. I'll try and do mine next weekend.

Maybe. Depends on how many miles one drives it and under what conditions. I doubt I log as many miles as many here (but probably more than @shifty` ), but it's the temps that are killer and very hard on fluids. And, when I do take it out, it's often to very remote and desolate places where the are no services. If one breaks down, they're screwed. Not my style. The truck has to be reliable. Period. If that means swapping fluids, tires and batteries more often, that's the price I pay.

Now, between people coming and going in and out of the garage yesterday and b.s.'ing, being on *here* quite a bit, I lost track of my own shit and slightly over-filled the trans. Lol. Time to go out and drain a few ounces.

 

Yeah everyone is different and some people may go with an HD spring just because you can get a fairly inexpensive lift from them. But I agree, most people going the HD leaf spring route are looking for better hauling performance, not better articulation. I'm going back & forth right now on HD springs for that reason. I actually don't want a lift. But I think I'll need to accept that in order to carry the loads I want to carry, a lift will be a side effect, because of the HD leaf springs. So then I gotta lift the front, too, to level it out...

 

I had a slight clunk from my rear end for a while. I went ahead and replaced the center bearing and Ujoint a while back, but it was still present. Checked the threads here and figured it would be good to go ahead and change the differential oil. The previous owner may have not used the correct gear oil, so I bought what was recommended on the threads here. I drove and hour to my memaws house and didn't experience any clunks so far.

I did find a very small little chunk of metal stuck to the drain bolt. Slightly concerning, but I'll keep an ear out.

 

Are you talking about a full drain n fill?
I'm just talking about draining the pan.

 

Either, really, but you're not wrong, it's not a bad idea to drain and fill annually, IMHO.

 

Oh, also lubed the joints on the intermediate portion of the steering shaft. I don't know about you guys in other parts of the country, but, out here it seems I have to lube them 2X/yr to keep the steering smooth, regardless of how often it's driven.

 

Not dog-piling or critiquing your work. At this point, you're already there and what's done is done. If it were me, I would simply take the truck to someplace I could flex the rear suspension. A large rock, a concrete barrier, a forklift, etc., and compress one side. The tire is most likely to stuff before full shock compression. I would measure the distance to determine needed bumpstop height based on this test/experiment. I wouldn't remove the overload, yet.

 

Oil change. Installed Votex quick-drain plug. Clearance pics shown. I liked this concept more than Fumitomo, doesn’t sit quite as proud, and the easy-drain function is clever.

Saw something unfortunate while under there, guess the added CV angle from lifting equals a reboot in my mid-future…

 

Close-up on that thang. Starting to lose it, but it ain't tearing yet.

​

 

Are those your original cv axles?

 

Yup

 

The high angle boots have been working really well for me. No issues after 4 years.

Someone probably sells them for less but this is what comes on the CVJ axles I bought.
https://www.cvjreman.com/product/boot-rt50/

 

Thanks for your feedback. It’s really given me a new perspective to test the new setup for compatibility. With the shock connected downtravel/extension is limited to 23 5/8”. I was able to squeeze a 1” spacer in to increase that to 24 7/8” max extension. However that whole setup seems like a risk as I don’t have the correct bump stops or bushing fitment. Also, the droop/downtravel/extension with the disconnected shock(no tire on but my body weight hanging on it) is still 25 5/8” prior to completely stuffing the other side up. So ideally I would relocate the bottom shock bracket 3” higher to achieve safety for the shock and maximize articulation. I really can’t do much more in my garage today to deal with it.

I like being extreme off road capable but choose not to use it. The HD springs give me a change to not squat in the rear when hauling firewood and give me a more level front to rear stance after my front lift. So yeah I like the extra height, but articulation and Load capacity are more important to me than looks. I drive some pretty gnarly roads that mimic some rock crawling trails and get into some pretty deep snow, but I’m not racing this thing.

as of now - to my eyeballs it looks pretty normal/level, no crazy rake. Let me finish torquing and I’ll snap some pics and take measurements.

Can’t remove the overload, I need it! Elk and firewood are heavy. I agree with your assessment, I think my best option is to take the truck outside and test how much real world uptravel/compression and down travel/extension I can possibly get with my tires and assess the need for new bump stops. I should be fine driving around town for a bit. I just got some free NRS straps that I can set to engage 1/2” before the shocks overextend to keep me from damaging anything prior to shock bracket relocation.

 

I went with Off Road Solutions years back; the price is the same...
https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/high-angle-inner-cv-boot/

 

I definitely want to see how it looks, but it won't help compare for my truck. You've got a lift up front. As of now, I'm stock. HDs will definitely give me some extreme rake.

 

What do you use for this and how do you apply. Spray silicone lube on the joint?

 

Mine are doing this too where they rub. Hoping to make it to spring and then do a Allpro reboot with UBJs and LBJs. Aso planning the ECGS bushing for the needle bearing swap since gonna be in there.

Thoughts on front wheel bearings? Swapped one rear already and already have the other to do proactively with a fresh set of rear brakes. Seems like time to do the front wheel bearings proactively with all the other work. What do I need: bearings, seals, and what adapters to gather for the press?

 

I mean, if I had my druthers I’d probably proactively replace the whole damn knuckle with fresh bearing if they were even slightly rusty. I’m getting a little sketched out over these posts on FB I’m seeing lately with the UBJ opening cracking.

 

I said I would post pictures but it got dark and I got distracted brushing off rust and hitting it with black paint haha.

I took measurements with my topper and about 80 lbs of gear in the back from top of wheel well to center of hub. It turned out pretty dang level. I only added about a 1-1.25” lift in the front and I’m shocked I don’t have any rake. So I would assume your stock front end rake would only be 1-1.25” with a topper and level with the camper.
Front Drivers 22, Front Passengers 22.25”
Rear Drivers 22.25”, Rear Passengers 22”

The really strange thing with the new rear shocks/springs is the difference in distance until the shocks bottoms out and the distance until the bump-stop engages. R-Drivers shock has 5” of available compression and 3.5” until bump stop engagement. R-Passengers has 5.5” of available compression but a bump-stop engagement barely under 3.25”. Somehow I have less distance until hitting the passenger bump but more available uptravel/compression on the shock.

 

I use this, but I'm sure others are just as capable. And, yes, I spray it directly on the joints under the access panel in the cab. I've tried other types of lubes, but nothing seems to last more than 6 months or so.

 

Front will settle some. Rear may also, but I doubt as much.

I'd oblige you to update this thread with more info about your results once you drive around for a shakedown:

• What suspension updates you did (product names/numbers, clip settings)
• Before/after measures center-to-fenderflare and ground-to-fenderflare
• How much added weight you had (armor, bedcovers, how much fuel in the tank)

Will be helpful for others.

 

@Bed Tundy working in the dirt in December in Idaho.

 

Nice work!

We'll see where I land by spring. Going back & forth, but leaning toward accepting that I'll end up with a lift. I have Sumo Springs and could justify replacing my leafs with non-HD and calling it good. But after finally weighing my camper, I think HDs are called for. The next question...try to save a little money and just do 5100s on the 2nd or 3rd notch up front...or go 884 coils for the better ride.

Had I known I'd get a slide in camper so soon after buying the truck, I would have done my initial parts splurge different. Just a few months ago I put new OEM coils and 4600s on the front. Oh well.

 

Interested to hear what the weight was.

 

Ah crap I thought I tagged you in the thread over in towing/hauling. I was surprised you didn't post a respectful told-you-so response.

860 pounds!

 

I mean, even with 4600s up front, you can still slap on lifted springs, or am I missing something?

Knowing you can only use the bottom circlip on 5100s, I'm always surprised more people who are planning lifted springs don't just use the 4600. They're supposedly identical internals with similar valving, different body styling.

 

Oh! Thanks for pointing that out. The 5100s I think say they're built for up to 1" lift or something? I didn't think the 4600s were. Just shows my lack of understanding. I did not realize the 4600 could be used with a lift coil up front or a lift spring in the rear (can it be used in the rear with lift too?). If so, that does bring the cost down a bit.

 

Realized I hadn't driven it in a week, so I drove it to work today. I was also losing a small amount of coolant, figured out where it was coming from 1 day last week (upper radiator hose), adjusted the clamp for it, hope that takes care of it.

 

I recently hit 10,000 miles since buying the truck in April...eek. The Tundra is my daily driver, but I really hoped to log miles a little slower and make it last longer. Some friends donated this to me, though, so there have actually been multiple days in a row I don't drive the Tundra.