Tips & Suggestions on General Maintenance and Repairs @ 400k

I have a 2005 Tundra 4x4 with 405k miles. It's my daily driver, me/dad are the original owners, it's been my first and only truck for the last 12 years. I really love this truck, I'm sentimental about it and I don't want to lose it. I want to keep driving it for as long as possible, so I am looking for advice on general maintenance, suggested parts to replace and any other tips.

I have a Haynes repair manual and do the standard maintenance myself, but I feel like I should be doing more to preserve this truck. I'll also list a few known mechanical issues/concerns below that I haven't gotten around to taking care of yet. I'm open to any and all general advice, comments and suggestions! Thanks in advance for your time.

1. Rear drivers side drum brake leaks
   • It's had a small gradual leak for years, fills the inner rim with gunk that I clean off during rotations. Should I fix this myself or leave it alone?
   • Neither of the rear drums have ever been replaced or repaired
2. Radiator hose leak
   • It hasn't leaked in 2 years after I filled the radiator with pepper, knock on wood. Is it best to leave it alone if it's not leaking?
3. Front passenger side 4x4 axel missing
   • The little axel that connects into the passenger wheel area fell off last year due to the rubber joint cover breaking and allowing dirt inside and literally fell out of place.
   • I still have the axel, I haven't replaced it because it didn't seem to affect the driving, but I'd like to have it fixed because I know I can't use my 4x4 until then. Should I attempt to replace myself? What kind of skill is needed for something like this?

 

Sweet. I also just posted my 400k mile tundra although I have an '07. Assuming you have the 4.7l V8, that's a timing belt engine and it's interference. I would definitely get the timing belt and water pump replaced if it wasn't done in recent years so you can avoid a heartache. As for the axle, sounds like you're missing a CV axle on one side. You might as well replace both CV axles at once. They're not too hard to replace. It's DIY-able if you've done similar stuff before and there are YouTube vids you can watch to help you learn. I would also replace the radiator hoses for peace of mind.

 

Welcome to the First Gen Crew from H-Town. We got a decent group of first gen Texans here. We actually just had an offroading and camping meet at Merus, outside Amarillo a few weeks ago. We are also going to camp and off-road the weekend after Thanksgiving at Hidden Falls, just outside Marble Falls. You're welcome to join.

What part of Texas are you in? I can help you change your CV axle if close enough. And if not me, then surely one of the TX Best Gen Crew would. As for the other stuff, they are also more knowledgeable that I am, so they can answer. But I'd change the hose.

@Sirfive
@bmf4069
@JakeJake
@Mohoman
@txagg
@khooiii
@FishNinja
@The Black Mamba

 

1: that leak could be 3 things. Either a leaking wheel cylinder, loose connection to the wheel cylinder, or bad axle seals. If those rear brakes haven't had maintenance in 405k miles, I'd say it's time. I'd replace everything in there, including the drums. Stay OEM on the drums, the aftermarket ones seem to never run true. With that being said, I'm betting it's the axle seals if it's on the back side of the backing plates slinging on the wheel drum. First thing to check is your diff breather on top of the diff. Squish it down and give it a few turns to see how it feels. I'd also pull it out and see if you can blow through it. If it's stuck, it'll build pressure in the diff and it pushes diff juice out the axle seals.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-axle-seals-bearings.39306/

2: replace the radiator hoses. They're cheap on RockAuto, but you do have to trim them a tad. Again, with 405k miles, if you're on the original radiator, it's time to replace that too. I'll touch on that later.

3: WTF? With no axle what's sealing your front diff? How long has it been like that? Can you get a pic of the diff housing on that side? But yes, that needs to be put back in ASAP.

Have you read through this thread yet?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It's the general knowledge basis for nearly everything 1st gen.

So with 405k, has the timing belt been done? I'm assuming so, since they tend to snap way before that. If it hasn't been done in the last 10 years/100k miles, it's time. I'd recommend doing the radiator at the same time if it's still OEM. The aisin kit on RA is recommended, and Denso for the radiator.

Also, check your lower ball joints. That's the other big 1st gen killer. OEM only on that.

 

First off, welcome to the forum.

Second, read the first two replies of this thread, it contains a ton of collective knowledge about your truck from this community: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

For your #1, need to see a picture, I'm having hard time visualizing. Is it brake fluid, or is it gear oil? A quick smell will tell you. Just curious if it's leaking because the hard line backed off, or bad wheel cylinder, or leaking at the wheel seal (bad seal, bad axle pressing, or vent valve is busted).

On #2, you should be proactively replacing the radiator with a new Denso radiator (don't buy it on scAmazon or fleaBay) every 150k miles. If it's never been replaced, you're overdue. These trucks only take red or pink (pink is better option) fluid.

#3, the work is not so hard. I'd recommend going with OEM. Part number is 43430-0C010 and I can help you get it locally for cheaper than normal, probably 20-30% less than you'll pay at the dealership parts counter.

 

damn, I think I should be posting "JINX" at this point. Posted at same time and damn near identical info.

Only you're right on the LBJ warning, which I missed. @TexasGator Here's 15+ pages of people who failed to heed the warning on LBJs, both the warning "this is a maintenance item, replace every 100-125k miles" and also the warning "NEVER use aftermarket parts on this one, always use fresh OEM LBJ and new OEM bolts": https://www.tundras.com/threads/first-gen-lower-ball-joint-lbj-failures.141860/

 

They said everything already but I'll add this

what you put into this truck will be what you get out +\- a little abuse here and there.

 

If you want to drive this truck "for as long as possible", I'd suggest you start fixing things as they arise. Not trying to be rude, but doing things like putting pepper in the radiator to stop a coolant leak, ignoring a brake fluid or gear oil leak, and simply driving with no CV axle onboard are all actions more indicative of someone trying to just drive a truck until the wheels fall off and then scrap it.

 

Thanks!

Thanks for the invite, that's pretty cool! I'm in Roanoke, north TX. I'll probably take a stab at trying to replace the axles myself first, I'll see how it goes.

Thanks for this info! The radiator and pump have been replaced, I think it's just the hoses that are cracked. I haven't touched them because everything has been holding and I don't want to cause another issue trying to fix it, but I'm probably overthinking it and should replace them. I've been carrying 3 gallons of water in the bed for 2 years out of fear the radiator will leak, that's no way to live haha. As for the brakes, I've never worked with drums before, but I guess it would be easier for me to replace both regardless and see if I can identify any leaks while I'm replacing them. CV axel fell off about a year ago while on a roadtrip.

Thank you! I appreciate the tips, I'll set aside a weekend soon to get this stuff done and get some pictures.

The root of the problem is that it's been easy to take the truck's health for granted when it has never failed or faltered on me, it always starts on the 1st crank with no exceptions, it idles smoother than my new Audi and it runs like a dream, the shifts are flawless. I've neglected it because I've been taking it for granted and I just realized this, hence the post. So I totally agree with you, I haven't been a good owner. The truck does not burn/leak motor oil, it's just the brake fluid on the rear drum that I have an issue with. CV axle fell off on my way to my honeymoon and the pepper is a healthy natural alternative to stop leak haha. I've actually flushed my coolant since then (it was all water prior, due to constant leaks) and the pepper has held, I'm assuming it's calcified now and fused into the cracks.

 

I forgot to mention the check engine light comes on/off about every other month, (typically when it's really humid i've noticed). It's a p0430 code, Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2. It's been doing this for many years, I've been ignoring it, any comments on this?

 

Yeah, it's in the link everyone has posted. Here: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3584439/

 

Props for your honesty and taking ownership of the neglect. Now get after these relatively minor repairs and enjoy another 400k

 

Proof these trucks are hard to kill

 

This a broken ground strap?

 

I have a weeping left axel seal. I sourced this Dorman axel assembly. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...34iNaeqfsQ1JsmurFB1PEZd5vCMAPUDglrWV4RgXnnw==

Anyone have experience with this Dorman brand?
I have replaced the seal once, repositioning the seal .020 or so to avoid a slight groove in the mating collar. But still have minor leakage into the parking brake area, aprox 10k miles later. Maybe my bearing has runout that i can not detect sittng on the bench. Or maybe heat issue, idk

 

Yes, a couple on here have used the Dorman assembly. There was chatter about it recently because someone wanted to buy it, but the axle is different lengths for AC/RC and the DC trucks. Furthermore, if your seals are leaking, it's important you replace the $10 differential breather (on top of the pumpkin) if it has never been done, it's just cheap insurance.

If you plan on asking for advice on here for parts, you really need to go HERE, and update your "One Line Vehicle Description" to give the following details:

• Year
• Cab type (RC, DC, AC?)
• Engine (V6, V8?)
• Drivetrain (4WD, 2WD?)
• Package (SR5, Limited, XS-P?)
• If you have the V6, supplying "AT" for Automatic or "MT" for manual would be helpful

Why is it super important? You're asking questions on parts, and each one of those (6) details has a bearing on what parts you need. Like, the DC trucks use different radiators than AC and RC trucks, which share the same. O2 sensors on some years are different part numbers depending whether you're 2WD or 4WD. If we don't know wtf you're driving, you may end up spending hundreds of dollars on a part and get something you can't use. Likewise, there's tons of idiosyncratic differences in wiring harnesses, wire colors between each year and each cab type.

Would love to help --- So help us help you!