Method Wheels- Vibration?

Last year I bought my first Tundra (2004 Tundra Limited DC 4x4). Upon buying it, I bought some Method 305NV wheels, in which were installed with some Cooper Discoverer AT3 255/70R17 tires that had been on the stock wheels prior. After installing them, the installer mentioned that they are hubcentric wheels. He stated for me to drive the truck and if there is vibration, then to give him a call and he will get some hubcentric rings ordered. Since then, there has been some vibration while driving that I have noticed. Do you guys know if the installer was correct and that I need hubcentic rings, or was he incorrect and I have other issues going on with my rig? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

Potentially bullshit, because you buy wheels for our trucks with the correct hub bore, and it's not a concern. I'm assuming you're not ignorant about wheels, and the Method wheels you bought have 106mm hub bore for Toyota, right? This is why wheels are often listed/sold for specific make/models, hub bores often nearly always common between makes/models.

That and many other "read this before you fuck up" info is over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

First, tell us the specs on the wheels. Width, offset, hub bore.

Then, tell us more about the vibration. Like ... At what speed you feel it. Where you feel it (steering wheel only? seat?) as that's important. Also, whether or not it stops or continues when you let off the gas, when you tap the brake pedal.

 

I'm assuming you didn't buy ju centric wheels? Lol

106.1mm is FGT hub bore (song with some others)

I guess the tech was right?

 

I bought them directly from the installer and I provided him with the vehicle while I was there. I wish I had the receipt still somewhere to double check the specifics.

As for vibration, I originally remember it specifically happening at about 65mph. Once over 75, it begins to slowly disappear. It’s a vibration in the steering wheel and you can visually see my hand shaking on the steering wheel while driving. I recently observed that it shakes when braking, but this is one that I know that I need to resurface or replace my rotors.

 

Potentially overtorqued the lugs. It will also give you those symptoms. Factory lug torque is only around 85 ft/lbs.

 

Never even thought about that . . .good point

 

I don’t buy the over torquing theory. I’ve always torqued mine to 110 ft-lbs with my Methods and have no vibrations at any speed on damn near unbalanced 35s. FWIW, I have ARP studs up front and stock in the rear.

New aluminum wheels will need to be torqued several times to seat the lug nuts over many miles. My process has always been retorque after a quick initial drive, then at 100 miles, then 500 miles, and then 1000 miles. I’ve never had any vibration issues following this process on any of my cars or trucks.

 

You don't buy it (it really is a thing) and then describe your exacting methods to ensure proper torque

 

…to describe how I maintain torque, OE value or otherwise.

 

Exactly, but you have a prescribed torque value that you follow and ensure your lugs are at that value. I'm talking about shops that mount tires and tighten the lugs with an impact. That typically results in 150 ftlbs or higher torque value being applied to the lugs instead of a prescribed value closer to the recommended one. This can result in warpage of the components in-between the lugs and hub (wheels and brake rotors) and result in vibrations.

 

Ah, I agreed with that at those torque levels. I thought you meant torquing with a wrench a few percent greater than spec. My Caddy runs 156 ft-lbs per spec, probably one of the few cars where the impact happy tire guys will under torque.

 

It starts at 65 and you feel it in the wheel? And it disappears or minimizes by the time you hit 75?

Bad tire balance. If you're running oversized tires, take the wheels to a shop that does road-force balancing. Every Discount Tire location I've ever been to will do it. Or take it back to the shop you went to.

But beyong that, take off a wheel, and measure the hole in the center of the wheel. It should be within 0.1mm of 106mm, or roughly 1-3/16" if you don't have a caliper and need to use a tape measure. If the hub bore is not 106.1mm, and they didn't give you the boxes or put the model# on the receipt so you could confirm things, take it back, they're a shitty shop and should know better.

The fact they:

• Warned you about "hub centric" issues, when it's widely known your hub bore needs to be 106.1 to negate that issue,
• Can't balance a fucking tire right,
• Don't understand hubcentric isn't a problem if you choose the correct rim hub bore,
• Don't realize our trucks aren't lug-centric...

Tells me they don't know what the fuck they're doing, and you should be leaving a negative review on them, and never going back again. That's bullshit, bro.

Although I'm betting @KNABORES is right, and those assbags probably over-torqued your shit to boot, because they sound like idiots at a clown show, the symptoms for newly mounted wheel/tire reek of bad balance, which is super common for oversized tires.

 

The MR305 wheel uses a push-through style cap which would interfere with the use of hub rings. Not sure if your installer has realized this yet.

 

The caps aren't mandatory to use.

 

Correct.

I am curious where his installer ordered 1.9mm hub-rings from. Just looking out.

 

Is he going to pay for them?