What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Damn I didn't realize the gap was so big. Can you fit your head in there?

 

Get a side pic, cause i dont remember that much gap. Truck looked tight, nah' mean?

 

Nah. It's about the width of a hand.

 

The gap is not visible. It's where the front bed rail and topper meet. This solution with the pipe insulation works pretty well.

 

#thss.

 

When my mower deck broke and the JB weld job failed I purchased a really tiny cheap welder on scAmazon so I could learn to weld some basic shit. That was sometime last year. It's still sitting in the box. Lol.

TOOLIOM 135A 110V Stick Welder MMA arc Welder Machine dc Inverter Welder with Digital Display Portable Welding Machine

$68 TOOLIOM 135A 110V Stick Welder MMA arc Welder Machine dc Inverter Welder with Digital Display Portable Welding Machine

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3VHN54

 

That's hwhat she said

 

Oooh I might need one of these to not only kick start my desire to learn to weld, but to fix my cracked seat rail.

 

Did an oil change, coolant flush and changed out the o-rings on the oil cooler.

after I was done my radio kept restarting and then finally shut off while I was driving. My power locks also fob stopped working. I checked the radio fuses - Rad#2 (inside the cab) and Rad#3 under the hood. Both were good. But Rad#1 fuse was just missing. I put a fuse in it and everything worked like normal. Is this normal? Iv had the truck for 10+ years and everything worked till today. Is this missing from factory or did it fly away

 

Are you sure that’s not just an extra fuse holder? Looks like ‘radio 1’ should be that 15 amp one above the Densor relay, and it should be a 20amp, not 15.

 

I’m going to mess with it in the morning . Everything started working instantly after I put a 20amp in that empty slot

 

Weird, I don’t honestly know offhand, just how I’d interpret the schematic, but strange if there was nothing in there and it’s been working all this time. Post a follow up, I’m curious.

 

Wait ... you're not dating @Mikewinters1976's girlfriend are you?

 

I think if you look carefully in there, you'll see there's no metal contacts, it's for you to install a spare fuse. Are you sure you didn't just have a gremlin for that specific run cycle, and it stopped when you pulled the key and drove again the next time?

FYI your RAD #1 fuse is currently a 15A and should be a 20A.

 

Key off this 7.5A fuse and compare everything around it on the two pics.

 

The location circled in white is the spare fuse holder.
The 15 amp fuse next to it is for the radio.

 

Tinkered with the E-brake cable and sprayed some PB blaster on the inside of the the rubber boot covering the bell cranks and moved them back and forth. Helped everything some. Got into adjusting little star thingy from backside.of backing plate and ran outta time. Slack is mostly gone after bell cranks freed up some and now when I push E-brake and release it there isn't a big ass droop anymore. Took up some slack at the turnbuckle under drivers seat too.
Now I need to read through @Aerindel posts before the adjustment process happens again so I fully understand everything.
I saw a video and read somewhere that it's best to start from the back with elthe E-brake cable and components and work towards the front for adjustments in general?

 

Washed both vehicles and gave each a coat of Griots 3-in-1. So much faster than waxing and seems to last a long time. Confirmed most of my leaks on the camper shell are fixed. I think it will be mostly dry once I replace the window seals. Also changed the oil.




Ravioli still looks good for being 12 years old.

 

Looks like the cap has another 1/2" or so it can move toward the cab.

 

No it's pretty close as is. I moved it too close once and it touched and made annoying noises against the cab.

 

V6 by chance???

 

No. I sometimes wish I bought the V6 but money was tighter back then. The 4 banger has been adequate.

 

Threw some 3/4” drop shackles on the rear since everyone is so jealous of my perky rear end…..
wasn’t to bad of a job, maybe 3 beers. I didn’t jump on the rear end or anything after but it looks like I lost about 1/2” of lift total, I could go for another 1/4-1/2” so I’ll check later this week after driving it a bit.
I also noticed on the inboard side of both hangers, the bushing rubbed into the metal a decent amount, so I need to be better about pumping them with grease more often….. more often than never hahah

 

Yeah I never grease mine either hahaha
But I'm the opposite on the shackles, I want to invert mine like they should've been designed in the first place, to gain some lift. I don't think I could go any shorter as is, but inverted would gain some inches and then I could go longer (not that it would be necessary)

 

Yeah I wish it was that simple with our trucks

 

I watched some 1"BL install videos last night. First Sequoia and first gen Tacoma. Seems simple enough. I might finally dig my 4crawler 1"BL out of the parts pile and install it soonish.

 

The SOS drop kit inverts their shackles, so it doesn't slam the rear, because it also flips the axle to SUA. It would probably be like a 6 or 8 inch rear drop otherwise. Would be sick, but probably require a C notch frame

 

I think I need this to run 33” tires

 

If you don't want to trim, then it would probably be ideal. I bought it to fit 35's eventually

 

The rear was too high?