What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@FirstGenVol bein all sexy

 

Obviously the needle nose

 

Did this yesterday -


Ordered these today -

 

Yes! Grind that mofo off!

remove bed. Then xxxxl channel locks or pliers for max leverage. At 1m with any sort of grip you’ll turn the bolt no problem. Torque is legit w a long lever.

 

Got the truck back this week. It came out to around $4500 in damages and her insurance had no issues paying for any of it. I contacted an old acquaintance that runs a body shop around here and let him know that I would fork over cash if I needed to in order to avoid totaling it but it never came to that. Whole pass fender was replaced. Surprisingly, no damage to core support or inner fender.

I was worried that it may have bent the passenger spindle or LCA but the steering was off because it hit hard enough to slide the alignment tabs.

I'm gonna try to give it a really good once over this weekend but I've been sorta pre-occupied with other things.

 

He has a tiny Hoomon

Also congratulations

 

Blind all the nerds

 

finally got to cutting up this old brush guard to fit up a prerunner bumper. Damn well near perfect size and only for $60

 

On this journey for solving the -84 conundrum you must quest for the missing link that can benefit all, if parts can be scouted for the inner joint that likely is the common root of needed healing, while an outer joint healing might elusive be (yet not for CVJ). This kind gentleman a procedure doth share:

https://www.tundras.com/posts/3472040/

Though his quest is for the longer axle, and said tools for the inner joint repair revealed, the outer joint challenge hath been displayed.

 

Congrats!

Rumba on guard duty haha

 

We had to call it a day. The last bolt won't budge so he's going to have his friend weld a new nut or bolt head on top.

This was probably the best picture I took today. She was smoking when we pulled it out.

 

Cut the cv clamps that were leaking off and filled with new grease and reinstalled hose clamps and changed the oil.

side note my 2020 Silverado 2500 burns oil like crazy and is jet black my 2000 tundra doesn’t burn a single drop and comes out golden brown.

 

I just passed 76777 and should hit 77k by end of month.

 

Rotated the tires



Flushed the front brake fluid



Gave it a wash and shampooed the inside.

 

Ultimately what I told him also, once we got on the island.

If a slotting the head and using an impact driver won’t make it budge, angle grind the head off, remove the bed, then torch and quench the shank with penetrating oil. Vice grips or similar to torque it out.

 

Man I need to flush my fluid fully. I really gotta get off my ass. Can’t wait u ‘til my last day at work. 3/15 can’t get here fast enough.

 

Truck looks killer what did you do for the level?

 

It'd look even more awesome with these wheels on it!

 

Thanks for the compliment! I will let my son know. He gets compliments in Flagstaff and offers to buy it all the time now.

All the suspension was rebuilt last November.

Bilstein 5100 with OME 2885
Freedom OffRoad UCA
BFG 285/70/17
Vision Flow wheels -12 offset
1” block in the rear.

 

-12mm offset??

 

Yes!

 

@Mr.bee A big thank you for the help. Made the job go right quick. Now all I need is for someone to teach how to build a +2 spring bastard pack.

 

Oooor you could get a AAL pretty cheap that'll get you up about 3/4" out back.

 

I could, or I could keep with the theme and have a bastard truck and spring packs. Got it as a no run no start. Ask Casey its a far fucking cry now from the death it was going to receive

 

Nice

 

Here's a post and some advice from when I did mine. I did not end up tearing into my original pack even though I wasn't opposed to the idea, instead I added more underneath the original pack. Duplicating exactly what I did to your pack(s) will likely generate different results due to the weight I carry.

Don't reuse ubolts on the axle. You can use the old ubolts for clamps to keep the leafs from walking if you want. The original centering pins will probably be too short or bent, so plan on investing in two of something like this and cutting them to size.



If you don't do isolators in-between the ends of the leafs, or run bike tubes on your leafs (search the forum for people that do this), the leafs will end up squeaking regularly. I just jack the truck up and get weight of the springs and just shoot WD-40 silicone spray in between them.

You're going to want to measure how much shock shaft is showing when the shocks are off of the truck. When the truck is under it's own weight, your final goal should be to aim for half of the shock's shaft to be showing. If you want to lift the rear so high where your current shocks will end up having an uneven amount of travel, you'll need to look into longer shocks such as from a 2nd gen.

If the shocks end up bottoming out before the bumpstops hit, space up the bumpstop or get bigger bumpstops. When you have the bastard pack complete and it droops lower than how long the shock is, you'll either need a longer shock or to fabricate limit straps.

C-clamps work great for putting the packs together and tightening down the centering pin.

Don't torque your u-bolts unless the bumpstops are installed.

 

I like how some of my old crap stock parts are still doing truck stuff for you.

 

Love to recycle and learn/experiment whenever possible!

 

After installing the new cv axles, topping off the diff fluid, and doing an oil change the front end is still making the murmuring sound. Now I'm thinking wheel bearings. How do I test wheel bearings?

 

Does the noise stop when the truck is in 4WD? Do you notice the sound is more pronounced when you're turning in one direction versus another?

Jack the truck off the ground and then grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock to inspect for play.