General Supercharger Thread

I might as well get my 650s tested and dialed prior to install myself...I trust who I got them from but it's hard saying not knowing for sure!

 

Words of truth!

 

Anyone want either a used Aquamist or NIB AEM V3 Water Methanol Injection Kit 1.15 Gallon Tank w/ Fluid MAP Sensor 30-3300 ?

 

Decided against it? Both aquamist and aem?

 

Yup

 

Any other supercharged brethren struggle with catback exhaust gaskets not lasting? 2ish years and less than 20k miles and these were leaking like a sieve and ticking like an old farm truck. I slathered the new ones in anti seize. Easy job, but annoying if it becomes frequent. My mistake might be using FelPro gaskets instead of OEM though.

 

How long they been in? I haven’t had any issues but I did use oem when I made my exhaust.

 

IME, the only time these fail is when the flanges get crusty. How do the flanges look?

 

They have been in for 2.5 years and 18k miles I’d say.

Looking at them when I had it apart today only one was a little crusty and I think it was the one that had started leaking more badly than the other. When I installed them last time I cleaned up the mating surfaces with a wire wheel. I didn’t want to take the whole muffler section off today in the cold though so I just separated the flanges enough to get a screwdriver and a cleaning pad in there to clean up the major crust.

Also, being that they are only 2 bolt flanges the flanges seem to be bending inward toward eachother where they fasten at the bolt holes which doesn’t help the sealing matter as it takes away pressure from the center of the flanges.

 

Which brand exhaust?

 

TRD dual.

 

Yeah, a little crust on the front flange, and the bend on rear stamped flange, just won’t support that gasket well.

 

Me

mine are blown out

I used he ones that came with the Trd exhaust

 

I may look into drilling holes through the flanges on the sides and installing smaller 1/4” stainless bolts to make it a Frankenstein 4 bolt flange and more uniformly squeeze the gasket. That would likely solve the issue.

Edit: could also try double stacking the gaskets since they have a really large lip on the cat side that they just ride on that will keep them perfectly aligned with plenty of room for an extra gasket.

 

The double gasket trick just causes the flanges the bend more, and there’s not enough lip on the converter side to properly support two (BTDT). New 3 or 4 bolt flanges are the real fix.

 

The flanges would only bend more if you over torque them. 2 gaskets might allow for a better crush of the gaskets before the tips of the flanges on the bolt sides touch and prevent the needed further compression on the gaskets. I do agree, the ideal fix would be new 3 bolt flanges but I probably won’t do that. Most of my local exhaust shops are all full of incompetent boobs. I also change my exhaust frequently so I don’t want to have to go installing 3 bolt flanges on every catback exhaust I buy, that then no one will want to buy on the used market since they can’t bolt it up without modifying.

 

I have a leak on mine (passenger side) but I can't confirm if it is blower related or related to my long tube header install.

 

Step 1 done, Grip Pro LSD installed. Not too hard, half a day reused stock bearings and shims. Used a clam shell bearing puller purchased off of

$109 VEVOR Carrier & Pinion Bearing Puller, Compatible with Dana 3040506070, 80, Ford 10.25" Bearings, Pinion Puller Tool with 3 Clamshells, 45# Steel Clamshell Bearing Puller for Auto Repair

amazon. Trans cooler tomorrow.

 

In hind sight I should of installed the Powertrax, traction bars and AWD before tackling throttle body swaps...

 

I wish the 2014+ had the "plug and play" AWD swap. That would easily be the top of my mod list.

 

yes we need to figure this out. I want AWD to kick the ass of one of my co workers who has a TRX.

 

Without having both Aisin and BW trucks side by side, it’s hard to know how deep into the electronics one needs to go. The BW 4WD ECU will probably never be able to control the Aisin case, and vise versa. The BW is a single motor, the Aisin has two. The Aisin ECU may swap in, but additional wires and repinning may be required…. Just too many unknowns at this point.

With the above said, I suspect the Aisin Land Cruiser AWD transfer case will physically bolt into the 2014+ trucks. Mod the front diff to be permanently locked. Pull the Borg Warner actuator from the transfer case, connect to the harness, tuck it away, and you have AWD. There’s now no way to lock the center diff or engage 4 Lo unless….. 1. build a stand alone to operate the case. 2. Pull the actuator and build a cable shift apparatus. It’s the best I can come with on this chilly winter morning.

 

Well after my 12th revision I finally have what I feel is a safe tune! Boost referenced A/F is spot on with PE, LTFT are within+-2, InjDC max of 75@ 100 load, knock never over -3, and MAF max V 4.30. Thinking I'm ready to swap some pullies and mess with timing! .

P.S thank to @snivilous for all the education/information!

 

Semi-useless, general update on the Tundra:
Looking back on 64k miles with the Harrop S/C.

For the unwashed folks out there – my setup:
2020 1794 4wd
Harrop TVS 2650 (installed by Peitz Performance in Houston) truck had 25k miles on it.
77.5mm pulley
DW650 injectors
Cooler sparkplugs
Stock airbox
Stock exhaust….well, TRD duals

I ran it with 85mm pulley without a tune for a couple months. Then the ECU was opened up by Toyota.
D3 performance tuned it then installed the 80mm + 650’s.
Then, in mid ’23 I had Peitz tune it with HPTuners & do the trans tune as well.
I installed the 77.5mm in Nov 23? And it is running fine on the 80mm tune.


Reliability:

It’s been near flawless. Let’s not harp on the Harrop harness thing…it was an anomaly & remedied by Harrop with class.
No oil burn.
No trans slip.
No engine lights.
I avg 17mpg

I use Costco premium gas (93 octane)
Costco 5w-30 oil
Wix air filters


Drivability:

This is the best part. It drives like a normal Tundra. Most days I drive to work (28miles one way) without ever going to positive manifold air pressure. Amazing. See, driving normal does not/will not affect reliability or increase the duty cycle. Now, step on it, and Mr. Hyde comes to town. I could see how shoving 11psi into the stock cylinders is not recommended/advantageous.

However, I can ¼ pedal it to 6psi and get all that I need to the truck to do. (juusssttt enters PE)

½ pedal (8psi), and you are making your life better & feeling good about your decision to try to break your truck.

¾ pedal (11psi) is, well, unnecessary…in a necessary kinda way.


Affordability:

$14k all in. not exactly cheap. But, adding ~200hp ain’t cheap – no matter how you slice it. Getting your N/A “tuned” will net you a barely noticeable difference. S/C will leave no question unanswered.


Conclusion:

Get a S/C if you can afford it.

Get it installed by decent folks – that might be yourself.

Get it tuned on a dyno.

 

Good Afternoon

Ive been pondering if you guys put “supercharged” badging on your vehicle or leave it as is ? Not many options out there vinyl or metal. I saw a track hawk in traffic and the badging on that vehicle was pretty spiffy so I started looking for some myself

 

I found this "Supercharged" sticker directly from Toyota. I believe it came with supercharged Tacomas.

 

Thanks all
I had ordered some of the ones from Amazon but they were too small. I intend to put on one the left side of the bottom of the tailgate

I like the ones that you guys have. They really set it apart in a subtle way not IN YOUR FACE Which is prefer

 

https://magnusonsuperchargers.com/collections/all/decal

 

Nowhere near as sharp as your embossed Harrop! That's good lookin.