Feedback Appreciated : Old Dad wanting to buy shocks for son's truck

I am semi active on the 3rd Gen Tacoma forum...I posted a pic recently about my son - he had a 2002 immaculate Tacoma . He was hit head on by a lady traveling the wrong way on an interstate. He fortunately survived (as did she). As you can imagine he had to replace his truck.

He purchased a 2002 Tundra 4x4 Access Cab. It was a 1 owner and had the frame replaced by Toyota in 12 or 13. He wants to level it and add a bumper like on his tacoma (he had an ARB with a Warn winch). I have read much of what folks suggest - as has he. I believe we are ready to pull the trigger on shocks - we are going to have the coils added there. I believe we need the 2 1/2 inch option (2885) to support the weight of the bumper/winch he will add but not certain if I need the 3". Any help is appreciated. I attached what he's planning on buying and a pic of his truck.

 

Welcome! Nice looking rig. I like my 2885's so I'm in agreement. My only suggestion would be to look into replacing the UCA at the same time as the OEM on mine was hitting the coil with the flex.
You don't have to go as far as Total Chaos , but that's what I did.

 

I would not go with the 2885 unless you plan on lifting the rear at least an inch or so, even knowing you're adding armor.

I highly recommend reading the "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It'll give you the info I think you probably need to make an informed decision. Do not believe the lift suggestions any online vendor gives you, those numbers catered toward double cab (DC) 4WD trucks. I suspect you'll get a full 2" = 2.5" of lift up front from the OME 2885 which is pretty substantial. I got roughly 2" out of my Toytec coilovers and it's a radical difference which required nearly 1.25" lift in the rear to level out. You may want to go OME 2884 for closer to 1.75" lift, then let that front armor (if that's the way you go) pull the front end down another 1/8" - 1/4"

And be ready to drop money on (at least) meatier tires, because that truck will look pretty goofy with stock tires. For reference, this is what my AC 4WD looked like after 2" of lift up front, no extra lift in the rear, stock tire size on OEM 17" alloys. PIC 1 and PIC 2

Imagine another half inch lift in front .... you'll be even higher, at 2.5", it may end up looking a little whack. But maybe he wants that look, I dunno.

There are also a lot of lift/measures with before/after in this sticky thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

My truck is on page 5, in a couple of different replies, documenting the various upgrades I made recently.

Don't pay attention to what anyone has on a double cab. They're closer to a Sequoia than they are the access cab/reg cab.

 

This is true, unless the squat is the look you are going for

 

Thanks - I'll have him look at this...We always purchase KO2s for all of our vehicles and as soon as we add the shocks/level it I'll add the tires...I put a set of 33" on the 16 wheels on his Tacoma. We own a horse farm and he is in 4WD a lot. I imagine the bumper and winch will add considerable weight.

He measured right now it is:

front: 20 1/2
rear: 22 3/16

 

GOODNESS NO

 

Read the wheels and tires section of the suspension thread shifty gave you the link for before buying tires. I'm on 285/75 which are real close to 32.5/11 and that would not be possible without some lift in the rear.

 

Will do - or he will...I was thinking I'd probably buy him 265/75 KO2s...

 

Just for reference (this is about as level a pic as I have), 2885 front, 2" rear 285/75

 

Definitely. If anyone can speak to running 33s on 16s here, assuming you plan to stick with the 16s, @bmf4069 can.

Here's his truck in the wild on 255/85r16 (just shy of 33"): https://www.tundras.com/threads/lets-see-your-first-gen-photo-thread.21/page-104#post-3179935

I know he has the less expensive Toytec coilovers up front. I don't know what his measurements were before/after, or what he has in the rear (can't remember)

 

I'm picturing that ass-end without the 2" lift in the rear and ... yeah. Not far off from that squatted mall-crawler above.

 

The crazy lift in the from end is certainly Not want he likes lol...Here is a pic of his truck that was totaled...it is shiny because he just had it detailed...then he had the accident a couple of days later...the pics did help with the insurance settlement though. Pics of his truck before/after the accident (same week).

 

Ouch! Glad he's OK.

If he wants comparable to what's on the Taco, 5100 + OME 2885 and some updated leaf springs in the rear (there's quite a few to choose from) should get him into that ballpark. The springs I went with for a solid 2" lift are linked in my signature, and run under $600 shipped. I believe it's @oscardog86 just put some (Archive brand?) medium-duty springs on his access cab and got around 2.75" lift judging visually, and that's with a bed-loaded camper on it, not sure what he paid (I'm guessing ~$1,100 based on my pricing a few months back).

 

Thanks - he was not wanting to lift the rear but just level it. He is definitely not a mall crawler...in fact the closest mall to us is over an hour away...we own a horse farm on a river hahaha. He will tow some as well - he does construction for his summer job and does blacksmithing on the side - this truck will see a LOT of 4WD time.

 

Towing time ... this brings up a good point.

If you need to lift the rear, don't use blocks, and don't use add-a-leaf. Axle wrap and spring bend is an issue.

Replace the spring packs totally, and consider helper bags, just make sure you plumb them so they aren't linked to one another. Mildly defeats the purpose of having bags if they can just push air back and forth between each other, plumb them separately.

 

That's terrible. I'm glad to see that the cab is as intact as it is.

 

I think these guys have the advice covered but I just want to say I'm glad your son is ok. Those pictures are the stuff of nightmares. He's very lucky.

 

Thanks? Does he need to do anything else (diff/drive line etc)? As I said he is a country boy so this truck will not be in a parking lot - it'll be on a river trail.

 

Yeah I was so happy with how it protected him...the highway patrol thinks the ARB Bumper set up helped. He was airlifted and had a few surgeries (compound leg fracture...broke in 6 places and his ear was cut badly and needed plastic surgery). Long term prognosis is he will have pain forever but be able to go forward with life - he will commission with the Army in about a year and a half.

 

Thank you!

 

While you are in the market for suspension stuff, consider going ahead and replacing the LOWER BALL JOINTS!

 

We did those...and my mechanic went through all the front suspension and also anything else he saw plus:
valve cover gaskets
radiator
alternator
timing belt/water pump (and all tensioners, serpentine belt, anything moving there basically)

He doesn't care about the stereo...that would have been first thing when I was 23.

 

OK...(actual Boomer gen here)...I do not see a way to click on your sig file for the leaf springs- help please. Thanks

 

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...vy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-both-sides-90-221hd/

 

That does look great - so did you buy a new leaf spring pack (and make it 2" higher)? Thanks...

 

Thanks

 

Don't tell nobody, but they are leaf blocks. Like shifty said, not recommended for towing which it sounds like he'll be doing a lot of. I only towed a small tent trailer that had hardly any weight, so it was never an issue with me.

 

Diff/driveline-wise, maybe.

With 4WD, regearing becomes double or triple the chore, with having to match front and rear gearing ratios. Just going from a 30.6" tire (stock 265/65r17) to a 32.2" tire (275/70r17) I noticed a pretty significant loss of pep. Granted, I've got some pretty meaty Mickey Thompsons on wheels 1" wider than stock, but ... going to a tru 33" wire (or near it) at 32.8" which is what most run for "33s" on these trucks, it may feel a little draggy. A lot of people on here would tell you stock for that truck is ~3.9, but you'd be best served with ~4.3 if running 33s. I'm personally happy with my 32.2" tires from a form and function perspective. Pics of my truck here with 32.2" AT Mickeys.

I assume you'll do your own work. Note that some trucks - potentially yours also - have angled shims, the Taco potentially had the same. Make note of them, save them, make sure they get reinstalled to you're not dicking up driveline angles out back.

He may need to pull or trim the front mudflaps with any tire that's more than 31" in diameter, regardless of how much lift.

His truck should have an LSPV (load sensing prop valve) which auto-adjusts braking more toward the rear when there's load in the bed or towing tongue. That valve on the access cab trucks is attached to the rear axle, if you do lift the rear without relocating it the same # of inches up the axle, he'll probably be bitching about the brakes sucking. Look at this pic and notice two things: 1) See that weird 1/2" wide braket that's about 2" long? That's the LSPV relocation bracket. 2) Notice the text explaining how to "mock" there being more load in the bed? Following the details in the red text will - if the LSPV that arm is attached to works properly - adjust the braking more toward the rear, giving a stronger feel (but also eating thru shoes faster).

You'll want to verify if the rear in his truck is limited slip (LSD) or not. If it is, there should be a sticker on the rear of the housing indicating as such. If he has LSD, it is very picky about what fluid it'll take without clutch pack chattering. Stick with non-synthetics in the rear diff specifically. Lucas 80w90 and Motul 90w are both "known good, never chatter" options. Before he gets to towing a lot, I'd swap out gear oil in the front/rear diffs and the transfer case, latter of which is typically pretty clean.

Last but not least, on the braking topic ... parking brake functionality is critical to keeping the rear brakes adjusted. The drums should auto-adjust down properly when stepping on the parking brake. I recommend never replacing the adjusters on the rear drums, rebuild them ... too many people have had issues with aftermarket adjusters, especially the one from NAPA, which is probably rebranded Centric or something. If the brakes ever feel mushy, set and release the parking brake a few times to auto-adjust the shoes in the rear (hence why park brake needs to be functioning!)

I think that's about all i got. I can run up some pics of helper bags people on here have installed if that's interesting to you.

 

Oh and here's @912 who installed the Porsche boots on his CV axles: https://www.tundras.com/threads/cv-axle-boots.130370/page-3#post-3390891

Maybe he can speak more to the point, since he's been there/done that.

Me? I lifted 2", I definitely slung a couple tablespoons of grease out of my inner boots, and was preparing to re-clamp my inner boots ... but after cleaning what little sling I had pop up in the first 50-100 miles of being lifted, I still have grease in my boots, but I'm not slinging. So I guess the moral of the story is:

• Many aftermarket boots suck and crack within months/years.
• After lifting, you may not sling grease at all, so if boots aren't torn, keep on truckin
• If you do sling grease, if it's not obnoxious, clean it up after 100 miles and see if any more slings out
• If it does, you may try to simply re-clamp your boots a little tighter ... and if that doesn't fix things, maybe re-boot

I assume you know what grease sling looks like, if not, here was mine: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1715#post-3343344

Perfect vertical splatter line in-line with the edge of the inner boot.

 

Thanks! You've been more than helpful and certainly gave us tremendous intell to make a solid decesion.

I believe he is going to go with zero lifting the back...again he is more about function than look and the lift up front will give him just a bit more clearance around our property. We just need to see if the 1.75 inch lift - 2884 or the 2885 2.5 lift is right...sounds like the 2884. My only worry is the heavy bumper/winch - he may buy another ARB (for the Tacoma) and cut and weld it to fit to the frame if possible (he can weld pretty good...living on a horse farm comes with some practice on equipment). Thanks again so very much!!