What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Wrapped my boost auto tow mirrors using this wrap that pretty closely matches my Salsa Red 3Q3.

Before/after:




I need more practice at wrapping but it still turned out better than when I painted the previous mirror caps.

 

I’m guessing you haven’t had to replace the driver side climate control servo assembly yet. That was by far the worst and longest repair I’ve ever had to do on a vehicle. I wouldn’t wish that repair on anybody.

 

Looks really good

 

I added tailgate open buttons to both sides of the bed. It's nice when you're pulling up with a cart or you have your hands full or you're packed into a garage and using the regular tailgate handle would require awkward maneuvering around the tailgate as it lowers.

It's useful enough that it's a feature on the new Tundras, but really, I'm just trying to upgrade my electrical skills.

I installed two

$19 Directed Electronics Install Essentials 524N High Power Door Lock Motor

door lock actuators inside the tailgate and attached them to the poles that connect the tailgate handle to the latches on either side. When they get 12v to the blue wire, they push pretty hard, opening the tailgate if it's unlocked (but not if it is locked). One actuator was powerful enough, but I bought two so why not hook them both up.



Closeup of the actuator screwed into the tailgate:


Closeup of the connections between the actuator arm and the two tailgate latch poles:


I ran the wires to a

$13 STARELO 5pcs 12mm Momentary Push Button Switch Black Shell with pre-Wiring, IP65 Waterproof Push Button Switch,Aluminum Alloy 1 Normally Open Without LED.

momentary button I drilled through the plastic cover on top of the bed (there's a hole in the sheet metal underneath so this was easy). I put one button on both sides and connected them to constant power that I had previously run for my bed lights. The buttons poke up enough I can easily push them with my elbow if my hands are full.



This is partially based on this thread. In the future I'm going to add a tailgate release button to the cab but I need to run more wires the length of the truck.

 

That’s awesome. Now, let’s see a video of it in action!

 

Let’s see…. This week I have:
1) replaced all the bolts for the factory skid plate that were rusted on, rounded off, broken and missing; yes there are 5 bolts and all met one of these categories (45 minutes and $6)
2) Changed my oil valvolene synthetic 0w-20 and Toyota oil filter (30 minutes and $90)
3) Put in a new windshield wiper spray motor. (30 minutes and $31.50)
4) washes truck (30 minutes and $5

 

The 30min wash time and $5.00 isn't adding up correctly in my head.

 

Oh man, did you pull out the exhaust? I pulled it out the front without removing the exhaust when I did it, screw those heat shields though, especially the one that bolts at the tippy top, with like 3cm of space, LOL.....

 

How did the led reverse lights work out for you at night?

 

Bought a new grille surround and TRD Pro style grille. Doesn't look too bad with the surround being black and not color matched.

 

I pulled the starter out by undoing the motor mount bolt and jacking the motor up an inch or two to make room. I live in the rust belt. Taking the exhaust off would've been more misery.

 

Rust belt, man I rest my case... Only spent about 6 months combined in OKC.

 

More daily adventures with rust. While I was swapping out the starter, I noticed my brake pads were thin.

Had to cut all the caliper pins. Thanks rust.
Also, squealers fell off. No wonder I heard no noises.

Got a little too comfortable with the truck being a tank. All the repairs came in at once.

 

I remember being told one of the very first things to do was to anti-seize those dang pins. Glad you caught the pads in time.

 

4 years later & that damn shield is still sitting on my work bench No way I was reinstalling that p.o.s.

 

LMAO.... I trimmed that corner tbh, I think I posted in another site that I got a new one, since some people would lose their marbles, but I was like scratch that I got it back in minus that corner. Come to think of it, it sits right on the starter, since I used an impact to remove that rounded out bolt with the corner of heat shield still attached.

 

Sounds like nice set up I ran those Focals in my 4R and hope to get a set for the truck soon.

 

Fuuuuuuuuu...
HVAC stuck on defrost. When I turn the truck off/on I can hear the servo turning and creaking. I'm guessing either something is stuck, or the pivot arm is stripped. And of course it decided it is time to do this when it is 27 degrees and I am not in a position where I have a spot to work on it in a garage.

 

I just went through the exact same thing a couple of months ago. Had to replace the dual motor servo on the driver side. Kind of labor intensive. Took me about 15 hours off and on over 3 days. The YouTube vids helped, but mine wouldn’t snap in to place like the guys on the video said. Ended up taking apart one of the motors to align the big box quarter moon gear. Mine was stuck in defrost too and my panel had a 30 second delay when I started truck as well as the creaking before it stopped working. I got 2 different estimates, the cheapest one was around $2K. The replacement part is less than $150. Just need A LOT OF PATIENCE! PM me if you need more info. Good Luck!!

 

I have the same issue. Were the estimates from a dealership or a garage?

 

Both were about the same. They didn’t want to do it the way it was done the YouTube videos. They said the dash needed to be removed. Before figuring out the trick, I understand why

 

Where did you both of them? Need to do this myself.

 

Some details on troubleshooting and timing the servos in this thread. I had to replace the entire heater box.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2nd...er-servo-timing-and-blend-door-failure.34236/

 

x2 These look great

 

I read that thread and it literally scared the crap out of me thinking I would have to tear out the dash. Thank God I didn’t have to.

 

The Pro style grille insert was purchased from NP Motorsports and the surround from this seller on eBay (same brand

$151 Evan-Fischer Grille Assembly Compatible with 2010-2011 Toyota Tundra Painted Black Shell and Insert SR5 Model

here on scAmazon but more expensive).

And a FYI - I've bought 2 grilles from 2 different manufacturers, within the past year, and neither one comes as close to the bumper as OEM. Their shape is almost like a hybrid between the Sequoia and Tundra. I personally don't have a problem with the gap between grille and bumper but I know some do. I also had bad luck with this brand as it's very brittle, if it doesn't already arrive broken.

 

thanks bud. That gap doesn’t bother me.

 

Here are my symptoms.
Creaking when I turn the ignition on and about 20 seconds after I turn it off.
About 30 second delay on control/fan power.
Only airflow is to the defrost vent with no noticeable flow to floor or dash vents.

Servo controls functioning for recirculation, driver ac/cold/hot, passenger sync/cold/hot. The only one not working is vent selection.

 

You described exactly what I went through. Mine was the dual motor servo on the drivers side. There are a few videos on replacing it. I used A little bit of each one to get it done. If you want to talk, send me a PM and I’ll give you my number. It’s easier to explain over the phone. Like I said, I spent at least 15 hours off and on and off and on, etc, etc. I almost gave up 3 times to have the dealer do it. Once you figure out the few tricks you have to do, it isn’t that bad. It’s the laying on you back on the floorboard trying to position everything that’s the hardest part. It also helps if you have one of those cheap little horoscopes that connect to your phone so you can see that the servo is correctly in place. You will need to have a lot of patience.

 

Finally got new tires for winter just after the second snow. 285/70r17 load range C Falken Wildpeaks. Also dressed up my center caps with some foil tape and new TRD decals.