1st Gen factory amplifier locations (JBL, non-JBL, all cabs)

Always check stupid stuff first:

• Check/crank the volume?
• Balance/Fader is centered?
• Did you "tug test" on your wires to make sure they're properly connected?
• You're 100% positive your audio source is good?
• ^^ in case you're using Bluetooth or similar external input)

Your Tundra is a 2000, so it's either RC or AC, and amp was in dash, right? Which harness brand/part number did you buy?

Finally, run us through your wiring. It should've looked something like this:

• Remove OEM radio
• Remove in-dash amp
• The plug that was going into the amp will plug into your adapter harness
• The adapter harness will get wired to the JVC harness

 

Oh shit, I almost forgot. HOW DID YOU ATTACH YOUR WIRES? Like, what method did you use? Wire nuts? Butt splices? Crimp-on terminator caps? Solder? Twist with electrical tape? If you used crimps, what type of tool did you use to crimp them?

With in-dash amps for the younger trucks, this is the basic wire configuration for the factory in-dash amp:

​

Your harness, when crimped to the new radio's harness, should look roughly like this, and you'd plug the two translucent ends into the two ends above on the OEM amp:

​

Edit: Actually, a did trace back some of the wires in another thread, and this was the rundown I came up with, it should be ballpark correct, correct enough at least.

​

 

Hoping that maybe someone can help with some questions/issues I'm running into with my stereo install...

I'm installing a Scion headunit in my 2005 AC with a non-JBL/amp in rear system. I've been reading up the posts from @empty_lord and @assassin10000 as well as the links to other forums and bought the necessary harnesses (I think). Here's the issues I'm running into...

- First, I only seem to have one antenna plug and from what I've been reading, I should have two. The original headunit has inputs for two plugs.

- I bought the base harness kit off ebay and it included the 20 to 28 pin harness, USB harness (useless), and the antenna adapter harness. I also have the 2 into 1 antenna plug splicer and the small. I'm not interested in Bluetooth calling so am skipping that adapter and will replace the USB adapter with one that is more functional. Is this all I need in regards to adapters/harnesses?

- I have two wiring harnesses coming out of the dash: a 20 pin and a 6 pin. I'm able to connect the 20 to 28 pin harness but can't figure out the antenna adapter harness. This harness only has a 10 pin for the headunit side - it does not have the 6 pin for the headunit side. The truck side of this adapter is a 10 pin which doesn’t match the 6 pin coming out of the dash. Should this adapter also have the 6 pin plug/harness or do I need another harness? Part of me thinks that the amp wiring is throwing me off and I need the Metra 70-8121 harness. What do y'all think?

I've included pics of my single antenna plug and the 6 pin plug that I'm not able to match up with...

Lots of great info on this thread! Thanks in advance for your help!

 

Thanks for the responses, Shifty.
I soldered the connections and have heat shrink on them, though I haven't sealed it up yet (wanted to test first). If it were one speaker out I would guess that it was a bad connection, but none of the speakers are working.
My harness looks like the one in the picture you attached. The vehicle side attached to the two connectors that were going into the amp. I totally removed the amp. I cross referenced with the attached chart I found on this forum to make sure everything was mapped right on my harness. I also tested successfully for continuity on each speaker using a multimeter. The speaker outputs from the HU however did not show any voltage. The AV outs work, though. Beginning to think it's a bad amp in the HU (usually have good luck on FB Marketplace but that's the risk you run).

 

I'd need to see everything laid out as I show above to spot any issues. It is weird that you'd get no sound on any speakers if the Metra harness you used is color-matched to the ATOTO harness as you see on the harness I linked above (although it's not tied to an ATOTO, ATOTO should be using industry-standard colors on their harness, or at least I would expect it!)

That's why I went to verifying audio source, volume level is up, mute is off, balance/fader are centered. But you know, ATOTO is sort of shitware Chinese garbage, it's entirely possible teh unit is defective and its integrated amp is defective...

Can you snap a photo of the harnesses, and confirm 100% you've fully seated every harness? I mean, the fact the rears and fronts are each on different plugs into the amp ... that makes it damn near impossible to be a bad connection there.

It's not hard to blow an integrated amp, if a couple wires arc together because they're not crimped or sealed, as you put it.

 

I’ve done enough dumb shit to know to look out for the dumb shit lol…made sure the volume was up, mute off, played with the fader, etc. Also tried multiple sources (radio, Bluetooth).
Pretty certain I didn’t arc any wires. The heat shrink is on there pretty tight even though it isn’t sealed and I was careful not to let anything touch.
Here’s the pics of my harnesses. I had to by a radio harness off eBay. The only thing weird was the red and yellow was switched (referenced the pin out in the HU manual before I wired it) and there is no orange Illum wire.

 

Well, let's debug the radio then.

Tell me you have an extra speaker laying around somewhere. Surely you've got something laying around somewhere?

If you do, choose any of the following wire pairs coming specifically off the ATOTO harness:

• purple+purple w/blk stripe
• white+white w/blk stripe
• grey+grey w/blk stripe
• dk green+dk green w/blk stripe

Attach one of those four pairs of wires to the extra speaker you've got laying around.

Do you get sound to that speaker running directly off the head unit to the speaker?

If not, one of two things is happening:

1. The internal amp of the ATOTO unit is fried
2. There's some setting, either an external hardware switch [or] some internal feature of the radio which lets you turn off the speaker-level output, so you're only using the preamp (RCA) output.

You'll need to RTFM to see if #2 is a thing or not. But from what I see in your pic, green to green, purple to purple, white to white, grey to grey, all the speakers are wired correctly.

FWIW, you wouldn't be the 1st person I've heard getting an ATOTO unit that's DOA. There are (or were) a bunch of reviews on scAmazon to that effect, unless they somehow got them removed. Their QC sucks, but the stuff is so cheap they're happy to replace normally. Does it happen to have a factory reset? Did you buy it on scAmazon, so exchange is easy?

 

PS - just like we can debug the radio in this case, you can also debug your OEM wiring for the speakers just to make sure all that is correct also - this way you know the adapter harnesses and stuff is fine (which it does look fine), but the radio is shit.

Two ways to do this, depends if you have a DMM/multimeter or not.

If not, but you have a 9v battery, ideally one that's been used so it's got a little edge off (smoke detectors often use 9V, so do a lot of tools like multimeters), take whichever of those 4 wire pairs you chose above, but from the adapter harness' side, not the radio harness side. Hold the negative speaker wire on the negative side of the 9v battery, while you tap the positive speaker wire on the positive 9v battery terminal. You should hear a faint pop every time you tap the wire to the positive side. This is something you can do to test voice coil throw, but holding longer.

If you have a DMM, set it to read resistance and test the leads with the probes oriented appropriately. What measurement do you see?

 

The HU is a JVC KW-M560BT, not an ATOTO. I bought in on Facebook Marketplace but the guy I bought if from didn't seem sketchy...said it worked fine when he removed it.
I already tested for continuity on each speaker pair from the vehicle harness with a DMM and they all did have continuity. Tested voltage (DC) on each speaker wire pair and had zeroes.

 

Dammit, I'm getting you confused with someone else. Sorry, I probably just said ATOTO like 500 times too eh? Meh. Rough week at work already. My brain is fried.

Then, yeah, based on what you just said, it sounds like you're seing resistance on the speaker circuit, i.e. speakers are good, but the JVC isn't outputting jack ... so you know what the problem is.

I would check for said setting in #2 I just mentioned, but in the user interface. I have owned radios that'll let you toggle to only low-level and/or only high-level outs. There may also be a way to factory reset the unit, too, typically a 'reset' function in the menu of all JVC/Kenwood radios.

But this being used ... hmmm. I'd be skeptical also. No matter how nice they seem. But again - you can always attach a temporary speaker to one HU output. If you get no sound, you know it's the head unit.

 

Here's the reset info from the manual (link):

 

Oh, and you may want to see if a firmware update slaps it into shape if the reset doesn't.

 

Haha no worries. Had to look up what ATOTO was...
The unit reset because there wasn't any power to it, so it "initialized" and went through a short setup on power up. I found a setting to turn the AV jacks on and off but that didn't change the speaker wire outputs. I'll dig around one more time to make sure.
It was cheap, so that's what I get I guess. I have an amp laying around, so I might just hook it up since I know the AV outs work. Like I need another reason to spend more time working on my truck and not doing the other 100 things I need to do...
And I'll try the reset and firmware update. Thanks!

 

Like I need another reason to spend more time working on my truck and not doing the other 100 things I need to do...[/quote]

You're in good company on this forum, I see

Firmware update and instructions here: https://www.jvc.net/cs/car/firmware/2020/kwm560bt/

And ... I mean ... external amp is always nice, but then you need to deal with fused power lead from batt thru firewall, popping out a seat, etc. But I like it!

 

Any chance someone has the wire diagram color code? 03 limited seqouia factory jbl. Just need to know what's what. I wasn't the one that chopped it all up but it is what it is.

 

You can download 03 Seqouia EWD’s from the Electrical Forum @ link below….courtesry of @RainMan_PNW

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-sequoia-wiring-diagrams-collection.111234/

 

Thank you

 

Does anyone know what harness you need in order to keep the factory in dash amp?
I know most choose to bypass it but I have a cheap Chinese stereo (wireless android auto and Apple car play for only $70) but the internal amp sucks and I would like to use the stock in dash amp.
Any help would be great thank you.

 

Your '04 ... I don't think it should have the in-dash amp. Pretty sure that stopped in '03. Yours should beneath the plastic cover in the cubby be;pw the rear passenger seat.

You would likely need to use an amp adaptation kit. I've only ever seen one for the Double Cabs, and Axxess makes that. Their website is where I would start, they're well-known for making adaptation kits for everything from steering controls to amps. Here's what they've got showing for your truck: https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?category=AX-REPLRAD&Year=2004&Make=Toyota&Model=Tundra

 

My 04 had an in dash amp...

 

Thanks for clarifying. For some reason I thought the cutoff was at the ‘03/‘04 crossover. Curious, what month does your driver door sill sticker say your truck was built? In case we can find an ‘04 AC/RC owner later who had one out back.

 

03/04

 

Thanks for the response and links, I hadn't seen that site yet, I need to do more research.

Based on this video and

$10 Metra Electronics 70-8113 Amplifier Integration Harness for Select 2000-2004 Toyota Vehicles

connectors I see I may be able to use this connector to retain the factory amp.

Yes my 04' access has the behind dash amp, my build date is 02/04


One more question? For the dash kit I see two listed and I've seen both used, does anyone know which one is proper for 04'.
One is a full frame, the other is separate side pieces.

 

Those last two links are broken but I think they were pointing to kit 99-8268 and kit 95-8202.

If I understand correctly, 99-8268 is for single DIN stereos, and 95-8202 is for later-model years whose dash openings were similar height but slightly wider thus needing filler panels or "ears" to fill the dash gaps. See an earlier model's radio opening, and compare that to a later model's radio opening.

If you're in question on this, I highly recommend taking one or two actions:

1. Contact Metra support directly and chat them up
2. Contact Crutchfield support directly and chat them up

#1 knows their product and what it can adapt. #2 sells and installs their product and may know "alterantive" workarounds for you.

 

for those with the early gen, with the baby amp tucked below the hvac controls, here's the scosche harness kits

$13 Scosche TA02B Stereo Wiring Harness Compatible with Select 1986-20 Toyota, Lexus, Scion and Subaru Vehicles - Aftermarket Radio Wire Harness for Car Stereo . Check Vehicle List Below for Your Model

Scosche TA02B (just the wiring harness)
Scosche ICTA3BN (wiring harness and the little plastic filler wings for double-din radios)

 

So what if there's no amp? I have a 2004 double cab with no amp

 

It's a good question. I haven't been anyone be able to get me a photo of the back of the radio in a DC 1st gen with no amp. I'm assuming you'd want to use the Metra harness with part number ending in "-1761" in the photo from reply #20.

If you can snap a photo of the rear of your OEM radio, it'll be easier to tell.

 

Figured it out - you just need the basic metra adapter -

 

Yep! That’s the part number i mentioned. 70-1671

Cool. I can finally go back and edit the tow info pieces in here. Thanks!

 

...
"If I understand correctly, 99-8268 is for single DIN stereos, and 95-8202 is for later-model years whose dash openings were similar height but slightly wider thus needing filler panels or "ears" to fill the dash gaps. See an earlier model's radio opening, and compare that to a later model's radio opening."

Based on shiftys' reply quoted above , a related question on Dash Opening fit:

@shifty, or anyone whose 'been there, done that'.....
I havent yet acquired a new HU but I know it will be a modern DBL-DIN, into my '06 SR5 AC.
Is it possible to recycle an earlier year radio surround onto the later years' opening [rather than use the Metra 'ears']?
Although a bit more trouble and expense to locate a donor part [junk yard], looks like a cleaner end result, IF the part will fit an 06 dash opening.
Nice having the linked pics fr/@shifty, but cant see complete dash/radio surround in pics for any fit differences betwn the two.