General Supercharger Thread

I’m sure I will, but I dared to ask. I’ll try not to get the thread shutdown… I will be using a 0wXX weight no matter due to climate, just curious if Toyota or any of the S/C MFG’s recommended anything different. I’ve heard rules of thumb saying ‘go up 10 points on the weight when adding a S/C’ and also ‘run whats on the oil filler even with a S/C’.

 

@Mdl I’m happy to be part of this, to contribute, learn, and share.

No oil temperature sensor exists on these trucks. My 3rd gen Taco attempts to gauge oil temperature via coolant and other parameters, not sure it works very well.

@snivilous is this oil/oil cooler talk too far outside the intended purpose of the thread?

 

If one was to add an additional oil cooler, what is the recommended unit?

 

You kidding me? Fuck no it's not.

It's more relevant than talking about how fast F150s are, plus I'm not an admin, I just add stuff to the front page

 

Like Sniv said, we didn’t get to almost 12k posts by accident. Sometimes this thread turns into:

 

IMHO, anything that adds to the info is valid.

 

Still have this thing?

 

Any issues using HP tuner on a truck with a VF tune? Do I need to flash the stock file back with VF before hooking up HPT?

 

No issues. You can just load the HP file right over the old VF tune.

 

I didn't have the VF tune but I know the stock file had to be read, sent, and new tune applied.

 

This is no longer accurate. That hasn't been the case for a few years

 

But I will have to do that to get the canned tune from magnuson. not that I plan on running it for very long.

 

This was on my stock never tuned 17 and per Magnusons instructions manual for a TVS 2650 kit and the RTD tuner.

 

This is really more because magnuson doesn't require their customers to update to the most updated ECU ID, and VF/OV required that process in the past because Mat had an incomplete list of ECUs.

We, for example, only rarely request this because we have a very extensive list of ECUs and so for the tundra for instance, we can use vehicle info provided by the customer to determine your ECU ID range and what you'll be updating to via Techstream

 

Ya try to get a custom tune as soon as you can. Stock Maggy tune really sucks.

 

I was happy with it for about 4-5 days, until I wanted more lol

 

I understand. I should have clarified. Stock kit 2650 required sending stock tune and ID to utilize the included RTD and their preloaded tune. Once they received they sent a canned tune to upload and run the kit. To me it's just a baseline tune to run somewhat safe....once I get a pulley im sending out for a real tune and planning to flash over canned Maggie tune

 

There are two ways to add a cooler. A custom take off plate, thermostatic of course, that mounts between the existing oil to coolant oil cooler, and the stock oil filter housing (Toyota calls it a bracket). Second option, if it will fit, is to modify the oil filter bracket from a GX460 1UR 4.6 V8. This bracket mounts the filter horizontally, and will accept off the shelf oil cooler take off plates.

 

It looks like that adapter/bracket uses the same cartridge filter, only mounted horizontally and without the engine coolant connections. I know there are adapters for these cartridge filters that remote mount a filter, which would enable you to plumb in a cooler. Baxter makes a couple different adapters for our engines, but their cannister to traditional screw-on oil filter adapter caused interference issues with my sway bar and the oil filter, so I wouldn't recommend them for the stock setup, but mounted horizontally should be no issue.

I ordered one of these anyways, I have a timing cover from XAT I can test fit it on. If it fits and clears the larger crank pulley I plan to run, it's a win-win.

 

I did a quick search but what does Toyota recommend for a oil temp on the 3urfe?

 

A couple of things to note.

The GX460 bracket requires the Lexus IS-F oil filter cap in order to run the V8 sized cartridge. A restrictor machined out of one the gallery tubes. An OEM donut oil to coolant oil cooler AND a thermostatic take off sand which plate can be added to the blanked off side (this will require machine work). For that matter, a spin cartridge could be mounted there, too… However, the horizontal filter is far easier to drain than is the vertical unit.

I had a GX bracket, but it disappeared. I may order another. If you look at the parts diagrams for the Lexus IS-F and RC-F, they have a similar bracket and show how coolers mount. The IS-F uses only the oil to coolant, the RC-F run the oil coolant AND an external oil to air.

 

I don’t have oil temp info for the 3UR-FE, but the high output 2UR-GSE from the above mentioned F cars is available. 284F/140C is overheat. The IS-F 416hp engine with single oil to coolant cooler, similar to our 3UR, can push the oil to overheat is as little as 10 - 15 minutes of track lapping. I suspect the RC-F w/ 467hp version of the engine gained an additional oil to air cooler in response to that.

If an aerodynamic 3800 lb car with a 416hp 5.0L UR Series V8 can overheat the oil, what will a 500 - 600 hp 5.7L UR Series V8 pulling around 6000 lbs of pick up truck do? Now tow 8000 lbs over the mountain when it’s 90 degrees + in the summer. I don’t want anything close to 284F spraying the bottoms of my cast pistons when the hot boost is pounding on the other side, we are not normally aspirated here.

Ideally, we should measure our oil temps under real conditions, collect the data, and work from there… but my best educated guess is that an additional oil cooler will be of great benefit. Anyone have thoughts? Please share.

 

I'll ordering a tee and cheap electric oil temp gauge. I need to find one that doesnt have a huge sensor. I have my oil sender already moved away from my overdrive pulley. Ideally would have to log summer/towing/wot/winter temps.

 

I forgot I had this from my Tacoma, so I mocked it up with the Baxter adapter...it fits, but it's way too heavy to be hanging off that side-mount housing. No doubt would crack down the road. I think I'll have to get their remote-mount adapter and the inverted mount to make this work. Good news is I now have ports to monitor temp and pressure! I might need to paint the housing though, and get some black fittings...loots like it belongs in Rey's engine bay!

 

I gotta look into it again. How does it work generally? Just hit a button and engage AWD?

 

Just turn the dial from 2H to 4H.

 

Sonofabitch, I gotta find the how-to thread again.

 

You get 2wd and AWD in 4hi and 4lo, no binding onvturns. Push center diff lock and you get 4hi and 4lo in a truer 4wd.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...013-tundra-to-full-time-awd-capability.54474/

 

Thermostat opens at ~180* +/-3*
https://www.tundratalk.net/attachments/3ur-fe_engine-cooling_system-pdf.731121/