Mevotech ball joints pressed in or bolt

Update. Thank you all. I was able to move steering rack. I gave the cam sleeve a few taps with hammer, Grabbed a channel lock plier and was able to rotate it. Came out. Of course I need bushings for steering rack.

I used a concrete pin. Few taps and the axle popped right out..

Waiting for my OEM bolts by this Thursday AND WILL start.

Thanks again everyone. And if I posted in different threads, sorry. I Ddidnt know it would of been best to place in a build thread

 

You're good, brother. Just keep the communication coming and folks are gonna chime in and help you through all this. May not come rapid-fire, but it'll get there.

Keep on keepin' on.

 

Update….

So thank you to everyone again.

I was able to get everything on. Going for alignment this week. Just stating a few things in case it helps someone else out.

Had a few problems getting correct parts/bolts after I sent dealer parts number. First one I didn’t get. Second dealer nearby ordered wrong ones. Part # for short cam bolts 90080-1141.

UCA went on easy enough. Had to move break lines for bolt to come out.

LCA. We’re a pain. But came off. I DID NOT MARK the adjustment. And that’s the one thing I wish I did before replacing cam bolts/sleeves.


Steering rack. Was definitely difficult. Make sure to move small screw holding line down. Absolutely no room for top bolt. You have to loosen a little with wratchet. Then use a fact get wrench. Bushings went on good. The one closer to passenger side. Make sure opening is facing down. I actually used the cam bolt sleeve to get bushings out. Bushing near drivers side. Don’t forget washer. It would also have helped if I put the damn bolts in zip lock bag and tagged them!!

Passenger side axle wouldn’t come out. I ended using the cam bolt sleeve as well. Worked well for me due to the wide flat spot to hit.

Struts were a pain. I could not seperate from LCA. So I didn’t. When installing new struts, I Could not line up bottom. I ended up taking top nuts out. Putting bottom in first. Then used a jack to lift up strut and twist it with bar to line up top holes. Worked well for me. The struts don’t say Left or Right. I thought they would. They are the same. It’s important to pay attention to bottom of shock placement before install…

I used a press from advance auto. I needed it to get upper ball joints out and did not need it for lower. This is the correct kit with all attachments. You pay deposit. And get it for free for up to 30 days. #648617

I defiantly needed some ratchet wrenches 19m and 22m and 24 Also size 14,19,22. In short sockets.

Outer tie rod ends. After loosing nut. I counted the full turns on tie rods when removing, that way when I put them back on they will be as close as possible to what they were.
Sway bar end links were def easier to put on when truck is on flat ground. As directions state and you guys stated.

Jack, Tundra and especially shifty…. Thanks for all the help.

Shifty. Before wheel alignment. My front height now is 23.5
Picture attached with parts numbers. For all cam bolts/sleeves,eccentrics. Besides the 2 smaller cam bolts I listed above
I will see how it settles then to replace shocks in back and maybe AAL. WAITING to see.

I used McGeorge Toyota for many parts. LBJ were about 30 bucks cheaper than dealer by me. And shipping was cheap!

 

@Mhagha For future reference, this is what you need for that top bolt on the rack. Also great to have for removing the upstream O2 sensors with the right socket.

 

Be sure and watch for rubbing right here if it's as close as it looks in the pic. I had one of mine almost rub all the way through. Replaced the soft line and now it sits in a better spot out of the way.

 

@Shifty
@Festerw
@Tundra2

I was able to drop off truck for alignment. They just called me and told me upper ball joints are installed wrong!

 

Looking at the pictures... it "appears" that the rectangle plate isn't in the slot in the arm like it's supposed to be, but I might be wrong because I'm not there with eyes on it in person

 

In the instructions, they explain how to "clock" the upper BJs in order to achieve the camber offset you'll need, IIRC.

It's important not only to clock them correctly, but also to ensure all is fastened down as recommended. Local retailer actually tried to sway me away from SPC because they're convinced the SPC BJ is capable of "jumping" to a new setting, though I don't see how it's possible.

Anyway, the shop may be correct. Only you would know. That's the only part of the SPC install I think may be more difficult than expected, and that's actually clocking the BJ appropriately. It's not a like a uniball or delta where "one position fits all".

 

I'm not surprised. The shop that did mine told me it wasn't right either. I had to drive back down to see them and explain how they worked.

 

Jack. Yes that would have helped but I saw videos on bolt removal steering rack on a V8 and it looks like there was a lot more room. On the v6, could be wrong, But I’m telling you there was barely any room… Even if I had that type of ratchet. I’m curious if anyone else had this problem


Anyways. Got my wheel alignment done. Guy did great job. Ball joints were correct. I think lady that called me had her info wrong. But. I have never done this before. And it cost me extra money because of that hex plate. I basically just put it on there and bolted everything up. So if you’re doing this. Yeahhh pay attention to what needs to be done with that plate
Alignment guy also stated. I did something wrong with 1 bolt for camber adjustment. He said he couldn’t adjust because I installed wrong. They close early, so I couldn't really talk to him.
This is an old school place. Everyone recommends them. And he was a persistent prick. Cocky. But I’ll take that as “I know what I’m doing”. I’m business for 70 years
So I paid extra for my mistakes, but all good.

I measured again and have 23.5. Front in height.

@Shifty. I know you mentioned this before I could not find the text.
I’m going to do the shocks in the back for now
and see where the truck settles. I will buy same billstein correct. Any certain model?

I also wanted to say I like the ride. Doing the front end man it’s like a new truck!!

Thanks people. Shifty. Again for all the advice.

I will attach few pics of ball joint. In case anyone wants to see.

 

You're welcome, thanks for posting your experience. You're doing a bunch of newbies a favor, they're getting to see your adventure, and you're inspiring them to go on and do this on their own whether you realize it or not. So props to you too.

Out back ... you already saw how much improvement new struts made up front. You'll probably get similar out back with new shocks. If you just want to go the no-brainer route, get 5100s out back. You may see a good 1/2" or more of lift out back just because the new shocks are ... NEW and not worn out! If you need more lift after they settle, give a shout. Shit solution is drop blocks. Easy and adequate solution is AAL (add a leaf). Permanent but hassle-prone solution is replacing the leafs with something more stout, it's just hard to know how much lift you will or won't get out of a new leaf pack.

PS - given the rust in your area, you may find you need to sawzall bolts. Hit them with penetrant now, I assume you have some. Hit 'em every couple of days from here until install day.

 

Thank you!

 

Code for Rock Auto

 

So,

Tried to install my rear shocks this past weekend. I spent a few hours on 1 Fu***ng nut for rear shocks…..It just would Not come out.
I knew I needed a torch, So I waited till today to get to work. Luckily my company has a shop.
Save yourself time With these top nuts for rear shocks. Sedaline torch 30 seconds done.
I also watched a bunch of YouTube videos on different types of methods to get the buy loose. Nothing worked.

I also Changed the front diff oil. 10m hex. Plugs Opened up easy enough.

Last thing Is to check timing marks. I feel that it is sluggish on take off. It is old and a V6. But still seems a bit loud and off.

Thanks again for all the help

 

I ground two flat spots on the shaft of my old shocks so I could get a bite on it with vise grips. Acetylene torch would work too I spose...

 

I discovered the Diablo 12" metal cutting Sawsall blade...took those suckers right off

 

Try cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor first. I had the 3.4 V6 in an '02 4Runner. Bought the vehicle used and the engine performed like a turd and got poor gas mileage. A simple spray with MAF cleaner and it was like a completely different engine. It's an often overlooked maintenance item that takes about 5 mins to do. There are plenty of videos online if you need more info.

 

tvpierce

Yes that was one of the first things I did. Along with throttle body

 

Thanks Good info.
So... I have three big boxes in my garage from Rock Auto for my 2006 4WD Tundra Access cab.

It appears that I ordered two Mevotech front end kits. Not sure how the heck I did this without catching it.

Of course the big bummer is after I had ordered, I got online and started reading about the install...
I did not know about the history of ball joint failure on Tundras.
So now I do. Maybe these "supreme line" products are decent not sure. Kind of a big job to put in all the parts and have an ugly failure.

Either way I'll be returning some stuff to rockauto and eating the shipping costs.
The order below was $150 for shipping. Two kits, neither has all the parts I need.
Pretty embarrassed. Any sugestions?


---------------------------------------------
Front End Kit #1. Mevotech Supreme (8 pieces)
rock auto part # MKIT10305
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14698073&cc=0&pt=15413&jsn=445

Ball Joints
MK90255 x 2 (Supreme)
MK80522 x 1
MK80521 x 1

Control Arms Supreme
CMS86128 x 1
CMS86129 x 1
CMS86132 x 1
CMS86133 x 1
---------------------------------------------

---------------------------------------------
Front End Kit #2. Mevotech Supreme (10 Pieces)
rockauto part # MKIT10100
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13237321&cc=0&pt=15413&jsn=441

Sway bar Link: MK90680 x 2
Tie Rod End: MES80381 x 1
Tie Rod End: MES80382. x 1
Tie Rod End: MS86702 x 2

Ball Joint: MK80522 x 1
Ball Joint: MK80521 x 1
Ball Joint: MK90255 x 2
---------------------------------------------

Also ordered
EDELMANN Rack & Pinion
Rock Auto Part #2026
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12747729&cc=0&pt=7388&jsn=436

 

To give suggestions, I think we need to know your end goal. What's the end goal?

Mevotech is pretty much the cheapest of the cheap. Granted, they *do* resell SPC brand upper control arms as one of the three upper control arm options under their name, but I'm not seeing that product number in your list, it's not part of the Supreme line.

Along with other good info you'll find in this thread, there's a link to "what's OK in the aftermarket to safely use": https://www.tundras.com/threads/corner-of-shame-oem-minus-or-plus.122591/

I think you'll find a few items you have above in the "don't buy this garbage" list.

But yeah, for lower balljoints, specifically, always go OEM.

 

OK Thanks for the advice. WOW what a screw up.
Probably cost me $300.
Excuse me I have to go sulk in the corner for a while.

 

You can't know everything. Don't kick yourself over it.

 

Wow. Mevotech LCAs AND LBJs. Two very bad choices.

I gotta ask, what’s the appeal?

I know when i made the mistake it was the 5 year warranty which drew me in, although in retrospect that’s meaningless if you have to do it all over again.

 

No real appeal. I guess a lack of research.

Need to replace the parts and just logged into Rock Auto.
I have ordered MOOG parts for other vehicles and had good luck. No idea why I selected the Mevotech stuff this time.
I guess they had the kit and I looked at their product sheet for the "supreme" parts and it sounded good.
They say the Supreme stuff is engineered by them and is supposed to be OEM+
They don't say much about failure and sub-par materials

I love my truck. Would love to put some tough stuff on it but don't have a huge budget.
Truck has 148k on it.

I can afford to put about $3,000 into a refresh.
So far i've replaced my headlights.
Got a new upper grill
Looks a lot better but that's just makeup.

Still drives fine but visible inspection the boots and bushings are beat.
Everything is still pretty stock.
Put Billstien 5100's on it 3 years ago.
I noticed the front lower bushings look pretty bad on the billsteins. Kind of surprised. Arizona and only 3 years.

Oil every 3k
Changed timing belt at 120K

I just wrote to Rock Auto about the return. Not expecting any miracle but just thinking return everything and put together a decent package via research & recommendation's.

 

Well if you don’t have too many miles on the Bilsteins you can always replace the bushings. $20/each from what i recall. Just gotta find a shop that will press the old ones out and the new ones in. I think i paid $50 total for a shop to do it for me on both shocks.

 

Yeah i'll take a closer look when I take it apart. Only 15k +- miles on the Bilsteins.


Ordered the OEM parts.

04006-62134. Joint Kit Lower Ball. $188.461

$52 43310-39016 Genuine Toyota Parts - Joint Assy,Fr UPR Ba (43310-39016)

43310-39016. Suspension Ball Joint (Left, Right, Front, Upper). $45.82 x2

48068-34040 Suspension Control Arm (Right, Front, Lower). $255.92

48069-34040 Suspension Control Arm (Left, Front, Lower) $255.92

90105-A0187. Bolt Flange. $1.79. x8

With shipping: $903.36