What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yes, hard to see in the mid day sun but they are on.

 

Finished up one side of the rear door power outlets today. The usb outlets are wired to the seat heater circuit via an add a circuit tap. The cigarette lighter plug is tied to the cig circuit via a fuse tap. Each outlet has its own dedicated ground from the engine bay to cab. The only adjust I’ll have to make is the seat heater circuit appears to be constant power at the fuse panel (my fault for not checking) so I’ll probably swap it to power outlet circuit and be done with it. Other option would be a relay tied in line. 2 pair 14 gauge wire feeds the outlets btw

 

I'd recommend a clean power source off the battery (fused) and a high current relay, switched off power outlet, then to a fuse block. Either 5 or 8, then feed the old power socket with a usb from one circuit on the fuse block and the rest of your stuff off the others. Good peace of mind. Can use a maxi fuse holder in the kick panel and one good ground to the fuse block if you have room for one with a ground.

Just makes life so much nicer, all you're using the poutlet stuff for is to switch the relay. Most stuff in the cab I want ignition switched so it's all dead when key isn't in.

 

So my truck makes this annoying ass clunking whenever giving it gas from a dead stop and when slowing down a crawl. I'm guessing its the drive shaft coupler / bearing? Shits rusted to hell. Would I be better off replacing the whole damn shaft?

 

That is one of the basics covered in this thread, which you should read.


But if you just want to go to the likely solution instead of reading about your truck, here:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/grease-your-drive-shaft-you-lazy-sods.55067/

 

@danb - try greasing the zeros on your driveshaft. Follow Shifty’s advice

 

As I await the cabin filters from the 2 developers, thought I'd take a look see at the EVAP coils area for first time in 19 years. Actually not as bad as I would have thought considering outside parked under an oak tree. Was able to vacuum most of it out for now. Full coil clean via partial dash removal when it's time, even if it's not till fall considering this god forsaken heat.

 

Mine looked about the same. I tried cleaning mine out with generic foil cleaner but it didn't work. It just came right back out the drain. The kit Toyota sells comes with a barb that keeps the foam in place.

 

Thanks, I'll be traveling to the big town next wk for prostate MRI and have it added to my Toyo Dealer list

 

It's worth mentioning there are standard non-auto liquid you can buy that professional HVAC guys use on the coil/compressor boxes outside your house. If you pop out the resistor, there's no reason you can't do a direct application to the evap coil, let if foam, toothbrush on a stick to the coils, rinse, repeat as needed. There's even no-rinse options out there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvLqlD8-3EI​

 

Good point. That's what I bought and tried to force it in through the drain. I'll just soak it down from inside the truck next.

 

Yup everything's been greased, double grease guns and bumper jumping. Read through that guide a few times before I bought my truck.

Greasing didn't solve the issue. Only clunks when leaving, or coming to, a complete stop. Not a vibration issue.

 

If you sit stationary, foot on brake, shift into D, release the brake and roll forward 12", any clunk?

If you brake, shift into R, release brake and roll back 12", any clunk?

Have you grabbed at various places on the shaft and pushed/pulled? It's normal for the carrier bearing to have 1/4"-1/2" of play in either direction, as long as bearing housing isn't loose.

 

Theres probably half an inch of play side to side. No clunking in the driveway trying what mentioned. Rubber in support bearing looks fine. Whole driveshaft is rusty as hell, considering picking this replacement shaft up from O Reillys since its in stock here. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-truck-2006-toyota-tundra?q=drive+shaft&pos=1

I will take some wall thickness measurements on my driveshaft today to see how much is left. Think OEM driveshafts have a wall thickness of 0.083 inches.

 

Yeah, I'm probably just a spoiled southerner, but I'd be replacing that carrier bearing yesterday already.

 

Midwest rust sucks ass. Wall thicknesses are pretty low, about 25% loss in the couple spots I checked. Guess I'm going to slap the o reillys one in today.

 

That’s a cool instrument. I could’ve used something like that when I made the bad decision of not getting a full cat-back exhaust and only getting the muffler and resonator section instead.

Later found the front pipes were paper thin and were the reason for most of my exhaust leaks.

 

Yea that device looks pretty useful! Then I went and looked at the price of them and decided its not for me, lol

 

Damn, that sucks. If you google "non destructive testing" near you, most places should have a version of this technology and maybe take some readings for you for free. Takes less than 5 minutes for someone who knows what they're doing

 

yeah they dont give them away. probably why work gave me this 10 year old unit thats beat to shit. still works though!

 

Damn, that's nasty. I'm curious to see what the inside of the yoke looks like (in-between the carrier, after you un-stake the nut). Not counting the rust removal, but the carrier replacement isn't too bad at all.

 

That's about what mine looked like. Inside was perfectly fine.

 

That's good to hear. Never thought I'd be glad to live in ID, until I see pictures like that.

 

Don't forget to chock off your wheels.

 

Yup, wasn't until the shaft popped off the diff that I realized I had forgotten to chuck in the chocks... if there had been a piece of coal between my buttcheeks I wouldve popped out a diamond.

New drive shaft on. Truck is a lot quieter inside, but still getting the clunk. A new squeak too. The new driveshaft didn't have any zerks on the cardan joint, is that normal? Just one at each end of the shaft that were painted over.

Funny thing is the kid at o reillys had the exact same truck, same year, same color, everything. He said just to order a driveshaft off ebay and return this one once it came in, save $300

 

Sounds like you need to strap a Gopro under the truck to watch for movement.

Is it possible the brakes are being late to grab/release?

 

How about the transmission mount and the cross member it's attached to? What do those look like?

 

thats a good idea, can rig a mount up and drive around with it.

i gotta take a look again in the morning, but I think you're onto something. did some reading tonight and looks like a service bulletin was released about it: https://www.tsbsearch.com/Toyota/T-SB-0067-09

this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jskN3pgpW_Q sounds like the dude has the same problem and fixed it.

 

That's for 2WD only, and is also covered in the info dump thread I've linked to several times already.

While it could be driveline, my thought is brakes are doing some late grab, late release type crap, but the camera could rule that out. Maybe LSPV not configured right. ABS doing something stupid. Dunno.