General Supercharger Thread

This forum and thread is where I found the info I was imagining lol. The wideband gauge hardly moved while idling and headed towards rich when pressing on the gas like it should, with the bung welded into the stock mid pipe. Now the gauge is swinging all over the place erratically in its new location. I can't find anything in AEM's manual that says to preferably place it at or after the collector.. only 18" downstream of the exhaust port.

 

@V10Ace , I stand corrected. Just read the AEM instructions and it does say 18 inches downstream but no mention of the collector. On my JBA LT's that puts me 2 inches past the collector flange. As @snivilous stated it does jump around but not in big increments and no leaning out. When I am on it it levels out pretty good. I've had a Walbro 255 and Aeromotive 340 hold good pressure but when pushed it would struggle to hold steady pressure and fluctuate. You could also make up a AN fuel line for the gauge and mount it on near the wiper.

 

I purchased this from Amazon.. should be here by the time I wake up. Planning to unscrew the gauge currently on the regulator and screw this in and place under windshield wiper like you're saying.

$31 BETOOLL 0-140PSI Fuel Injector Injection Pump Pressure Tester Gauge Kit Car Tools (Master)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VV29NHM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

You could back probe after the the fuel control module by rear tank. Is it leaning out at a specific time. Mine seemed happened from 4-5 shift. Are you running a walbro or dw pump? Walbro's are hit and miss but I always seem to go back to them.
Remember to back off if too lean...

 

Walbro 450. Honestly I cant follow the behavior of the wide band at this point.. its swinging all over under any partial throttle.

 

After a little reading...heat soak in fuel rails and injectors can cause it to lean out. Also having the afr sensor too close to exhaust manifold will lean out from excessive exhaust heat. Goes along with Aem and Innovate minimum distance from manifold. Just a thought...are you running above 1/4 tank? I had issues of losing suction from modifying the fuel canister. Why I went with the 267 model of the 450 walbro in a ffv canister. Hope all goes well with fuel psi test.

 

Wideband readings will definitely bounce back and forth during driving etc but what matters is when you’re on it if it’s holding the target afr tuned.

 

From everything that I've read, the closed loop AFRs will oscillate back and forth a bit. I think of it like the way we have to make steering corrections back and forth even when driving in a straight line. I think that if you graph the signal of the sensor, it's a sine wave. Voltage deflection is limited though and that's probably where fuel trims come in, to bring it within range of the sensor. Then you're just riding the wave!

 

I got this one, I like it but wish I had gotten the black bezel, not a fan of chrome & it is part of the body, when I asked to buy a black one, they said it has to be pressed off, send it in & they'll do it. I used a black Sharpie on it.

https://www.autometer.com/gauge-fue...otor-52mm-classic-0-100psi-1-8-nptf-male.html

 

this

mine jumps around 14.2-14.8. When I drive normal. Avg is 14.7ish

when I get to PE, it goes straight to 10.5ish

I love the sounds it makes in PE

 

I checked on my header order today, when I ordered them from extreme terrain they said they have them in stock and I should see them today. It turns out they don't stock them, they just say that on the site, they said they will ship 8/22. Hopefully they do, that will still be a few months faster than Prospeed.

 

I hate that shady ass shit. Sorry.

 

What's the range of swinging? Is it instantly jumping around or ramps up and down?

 

Instantly and for no reason is swinging from mid 9's to 17's. It hangs out mostly, albeit erratically, beteeen 11-13 under partial throttle. Before headers and new placement, it would stay within 0.5 variance under partial throttle and continue to get richer with more throttle applied.

Fuel pressure tester kit is here but doesnt have an 1/8 npt for the regulator naturally

 

Wow that's weird! Doesn't sound like a fueling issue. Could be a bad sensor? Maybe got compromised during the swap?

If you move the bung I would consider adding multiple while you're in there and cap off the ones you don't use. Then you could try a variety of spots. Maybe add one further down, one off a primary, further down a primary, etc.

 

It seems the readings are delayed. As if the sensor is simply in the wrong spot. Aem says 18" from exhaust port and the bung on these Kooks down past the collector is well beyond 24". Gauge swings toward rich (high 9's, low 10's) like before while WOT.. just delayed. Normal driving numbers are all skewed and dont make sense based on throttle input.

Been to 4 different local hardware stores to try and adapt the 1/8" female npt on the regulator to the hose w/ gauge on the kit I purchased with no luck. About to tape my phone with flashlight on under my hood and drive around

 

I have this on my FPR:

1/8 NPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee Adapters Turbo Supply Feed Line Gauge Hose T Stainless Steel Fitting 1/8 NPT Female to 1/8 NPT Male with 1/8 NPT Side Port

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QWJZ4Z1?ie=UTF8

It allows this under the hood:

$51 Aeromotive 15633 Fuel Pressure Gauge - 0 to 100 psi

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O06BGM?ie=UTF8

And the sensor for the AutoMeter.

 

Is the sensor before your primary o2? Should be after it and nor inline as it will skew readings. Was the engine ran without the sensor plugged in? That can damage it. As @snivilous stated try a new sensor and a better location. I've had good luck with Baxter auto parts having fittings.

 

Ace has that fitting

 

Primary o2's were moved to within ~4" of the heads, on the top of runners, per Prospeeds recommendation to avoid fuel trimming with long tubes. Wideband is below it probably ~18" and not in line. I tried Baxters with no luck unfortunately!

 

Im planning to go back out and try Ace. Looks like a male 1/8 npt to female m12 would work.. which 2 of the 4 stores i went to were out of lol

 

Drove around with gauge hooked up. Fuel pressure is dropping while on the pedal. At idle it'll hold 60 base pressure and then drop to 50 a few seconds later and hold there.

 

I despise whoever designed the tundras fuel tank. The gas light comes on with 8 gallons left, but the truck will starve for fuel if I have less than a "quarter tank", which means full throttle is risky below essentially a half tank. Whoever set that up was a fucking moron. I can live with shitty fuel mileage, but the fact I have to fill up almost every time I leave the house to not worry about leaning out is insane.

 

Do these issues go away with an upgraded/ larger fuel tank?

 

So that’s confirmed linked and fuel cell lol

 

@snivilous. Is it a fuel issue loosing suction/air with the walbro 450lph model 274 pump? When I modded the fuel canister for the aeromotive 340 it would suck air when taking off with less than 1/4 tank. May have contributed to my blown engine. Didn't want to risk it again. Running the ffv canister with the 267 model with less than 1/8 tank didn't run into issues with the new tune.

 

Walbro 267 here no issues. When I first did the Maggy I threw in a 340 aeromotive and it was faulty from new. Super annoying

 

Can't even do a fuel mat because non of the bottom surface of the tank is flat enough lol.

 

After the aeromotive fiasco I bought walbro fuel pucks and was going to have 2 in the back and one mid tank. Decided to just get a new canister and pump.

 

I used a fuel puck on my duramax lift pump inrake...it grabbed ALL the fuel from the tank and was easy to install. You're committed once you drill a hole in the bottom of your fuel tank though...