General Supercharger Thread

Not complaining, just noticed.

 

I'm still lean, fuel pressure isn't dropping though. Any ideas?
For reference, here is where the pressure is set (Xact said do 50)


Stays 99% there on revs.
https://streamable.com/89qal8

Any ideas on getting it to not be lean?

 

I ordered this so I can get the gauge visible while driving.

$29 Allstar Performance ALL46110-48 (48") Gauge Line Kit, Silver

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Q752WE?ie=UTF8

 

Quick update over here for visibility lol. Found blown STOP fuse under steering wheel area. Got truck backed into driveway! Forgot to clamp the transmissions hoses after removing Setrab trans cooler lol

 

Summary at around 15:30ish. Holdener tests discharge pipe length and exhaust pipe length on a turbo application. I was surprised peak power didn't change with the increased exhaust length even though the power shifts right. Discharge length made no difference. Almost makes the case for remote mounted turbos:
https://youtu.be/UaKaxcNIyBA

 

Dont like to advertise, prefer to surprise

 

@Silver17
@V10Ace
Were either of you able to determine what aspect of your tunes resolved your extended crank times?

 

Mine's intermittent. Just gonna roll with it

 

Kind of ruins the remote start feature when I don't know if it's running or not. But I guess that Spring is right around the corner, right?

 

Remote start works every time for me.. extended cranking or not

 

I try to avoid commenting on this thread at times so people don't get annoyed by always seeing me saying something. And yes, been working on the other supercharged vehicle.

 

Add me to the unresolved extended cranking on warm starts, cold and hot starts are ok. I’ve been scouring the HPT forums but finding little info.

 

Mine is 95% fixed I’d say after making the adjustments I outlined somewhere in this thread for Zphilip. If you search airflow adder ECT IAT it may pull up the post. Those exact changes didn’t fix his though so no promises but at least you know you would be working on the right tables to start tweaking.

 

Remote mount

Way back…I looked at squires turbo systems (STS). For my 96 4R. They had a decent pkg, till they went belly up

 

I'll have a gander; coincidentally, I was staring at what I think were those tables, but I wasn't able to make sense of them enough to start messing with them.

 

Bravo supercharger troubleshooting poem-writer!!

 

You had a boosted 4Runner? Now that is cool! Do tell!

I am familiar with STS kits, Holley bought them if I am not mistaken and their remote mounted turbo offerings are still available. The turbo warning I posted about excessive chamber heat while towing and piston melting is from the back of their kit documentation.

What is interesting to me about the Holdener video is he basically disproves the claim turbo enthusiast repeat that you will loose exhaust pressure and heat by remote mounting. In Holdener's demo he didn't even wrap the exhaust and it was an extremely excessive length. Both cases, short and extra long exhaust, made the same peak power. Now I've seen videos where the length of pipe leading to the turbo inlet makes a difference but the discharge side made no difference as demoed in this video.

For me the video demonstrates on a standard turbo you don't need to have it in the engine bay and it will be just as effective as long as you don't have long exhaust between engine and turbo; for an e-boost device you can have the device mounted anywhere since your discharge pipe length doesn't matter.

 

I'm still lean (over 15) the higher pressure I give, the lower the afr number gets (14-15 at 58) which is as high as this FPR will go.

I ordered an Aeromotive, from Amazon that said it would deliver today but is not coming until tomorrow.


The fittings are coming today though

 

That should fix your issue. I hit ~72 psi at WOT

 

I never put one on. Got close didn’t have the $ then

 

Hate to be a party pooper, but the FPR pictured needs -8 ORB fittings. The regulator is perfect for what you need though.

The Aeromotive regulators, Part #13138 (AN-06), 13139 (AN-08) & 13140 (AN-10), utilize two o-ring sealed ORB06/08/10 inlet/outlet ports, respectively, and an o-ring sealed ORB-06 style bypass or return port.

 

Are you sure the injectors are the size you thought and are properly functioning? Did you reset your alcohol content before starting the tuning? Would you really see the fuel pressure drop on the gauge just revving the truck in park as opposed to revving it out with load on it? Just throwing out ideas. Seems odd to me and would love to see you get it wrapped up.

 

I ordered AN10 & 6 because that's what I thought it said I need.

What should I order?

thanks

 

If you can, try to setup a dual feed, dual return now that you have the regulator, like ViktorG suggests. You'll need a Y-fitting for the feed side, and both rails would have a line each back to the FPR, with a line from the FPR back to the return hard line. Similar to this:

 

Your -6 return fitting is correct, but your feed and plugs need to be -8AN ORB to whatever, instead of -10AN ORB.

 

This? (Don't want to mess it up again)

$11 8AN Male Flare to 1/2 Hose Barb Aluminum Fittings AN8-1/2 Push On Barb Fuel Line Adapter Straight Black

https://www.amazon.com/Flare-Alumin...romotive+-8an+to+barb+fitting,aps,300&sr=8-11

 

Here is the BS that is Amazon (that just cost them 100 bux) When browsing it says order within (x time) get it tomorrow.


Proceed to check out...

 

Depends on the barb you have coming off the adapter, but you probably need a -8an orb to 3/8" male barb, or 5/16" male barb. Look for -8AN ORB fittings on summit, you can usually get them next day or close to it if they have a store near you. I'm in Cypress (Houston), and get next day delivery from their Arlington location. Or you can get the part number from Summit and search Amazon.

 

LOL, April Fools filter? I was wondering why everyone was talking like pirates...