General Supercharger Thread

Prospeed intake and RCF tb on the way for pops rig. Will use the the prospeed for now just to get the maf sorted then have the shop build the custom box.

 

I don't see any adaptors for the fuel into the FPR, does anyone know where I can get one? Or is there an aftermarket FPR that will connect to it?

 

I’ve seen people use these before on the rail.


https://www.nitrousexpress.com/5-16-8mm-late-model-billet-fuel-line-adapter-16190.asp?fbclid=IwAR0aU76MmnzXwFiWKvlP07_0gHvmNftjyZISTORoPXX5rcKmNct6kB5XEFk&mibextid=Zxz2cZ

Or maybe could incorporate something like this with 6AN stuff.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/232025197690

 

How about this?

$11 ICT Billet Quick Connect Male 5/16 Fuel Rail Hose to 5/16 Barb Adapter Fitting LS1 LM7 LR4 LQ4 LS6 L59 LQ9 LM4 L33 GM Oring Seal Billet Aluminum Natural Finish AN817-01-05BA

https://www.amazon.com/ICT-Billet-Connect-Aluminum-AN817-01-05BA/dp/B087YS4QT7?smid=A1TNMI4LHV0ZX

Into this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3722760809...5685073808&abcId=9300841&merchantid=113116197

 

All you should need is that second adapter in place of the stock FPR, with fuel injection hose connecting to the aftermarket FPR, and connect the output of the FPR to the stock return hardline.

 

I ordered the part needed to install the FPR I have this I never used on the BMW (140 PSI FPR.)

It is from Ireland Engineering, is there any reason it would be a problem?
I'm pretty sure it's the same as this, just not black.

https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-w-gauge/

 

That should work

 

I've really only seen blower spacers used for heat management. The few on the market for other engines would be too thin for sensors/spray ports. I did see quite a few Carb and TB spacers that were ported for sprayers and sensors but these are much thicker with enough material to support these devices. Probably limited to how thick the spacers can be.

 

@Gainer

 

Mostly back together, in a slap dash fashion. Haven't tightened most of the hose clamps, vacuum or coolant. About to reflash it back to stock tune. Adjuster comes out tomorrow morning to look at it. Then gonna work on the gas tank. And since I have to do that in the street, I'm gonna go buy some of those little neon children at play figures with flags to put out

 

@Tundraloyal these are the right guys to ask about SC drivetrain mileage.

 

Just borrow some actual children, aren't they on Spring Break anyway? Maybe charge their parents for babysitting. Win-win.

 

Forgot to post the CARB sticker, cause I'm OEM.

lol

 

How did you get the carb sticker? Any special process?

 

eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194557697251

 

When the FPR install parts come after I install the FPR, what pressure should I set it at?

 

Here is the data sheet from my injectors (same as yours), I would think 43.5 psi since they are rated as 750cc? Don't take my word for it as I truly do not know, but maybe this will help someone else be able to answer. I'm curious as well.

 

Who's Harrop is this from post#1. I see they have a FPR installed, maybe they can chime in.

 

Set to what the supercharger instructions say, or what the Tuner wants. The Harrop says to set to 60PSI, I didn't see any suggestions in the Magnuson instructions so probably 43.5PSI (stock).

 

43.5psi (3 bar). If you go to a different value the tune needs to be updated for the flow rate at the different pressure.

 

I think it's @V10Ace

 

Not I. But as @armyoffoo mentioned.. 60 psi is base pressure for mine as well.

 

The photo on the front is @HonorNotInner i believe. As for @e30cabrio, being that it’s an FFV your stock FPR is a 60psi from the factory as opposed to the non FFV 43.5.
Also I thought you bought used 650s? Yours just may be flowing more like 750s due to the higher pressure FPR.

My 650s with the FPR boost referenced are most likely flowing over 700 at full boost at 51.5psi. 650s at 60psi flow roughly 763.

 

It hurts to see it back to stock

 

Adjuster said he doesn't think that it's totalled. Went over everything they'd replace. Said will have to wait till it's at the shop and the bed is removed to check for any frame damage. However the driveshaft, and leaf springs do appear to be slightly crooked. It could just be the SUA flip kit slid a little bit on the axle

 

That might just be the shackles bent, as that's the weakest part of the rear suspension, it would give before the front leaf mounts. It doesn't look that bad actually, how do your front leaf mounts look? Any leaking at the rear of the transfer case/transmission?

 

I was concerned that was going to happen.

 

No leaks. Really hard to tell with the front mount. It may or may not be cocked a little. I'll just have to find a really good repair shop and have a talk with them.

He said 2-3 weeks repair time and I lol'd. No way they can order parts that quickly. And then at the end he said most shops are a month out wait just to accept the vehicle

 

The leafs don’t go straight they do have some angle to them as they move to the rear

 

I'm wondering if I can get a quote w/supplemental parts from the body shop, and then take on the work myself...I've had insurance cut me a check like that in the past when I got rear-ended. I ordered and replaced the bumper and tailgate after taking to shop for quote. I've gathered some shop recommendations, but most places are 1-2 months out from even accepting the work