General Supercharger Thread.

I will for sure and post photos of the finding/results...The cradle just drops in and isn't secured by anything other than weight and compression of the gauge...The cradle should just drop in without modification. I'm going to check and see what side and where the bung will be added...Sniv and others have used the passenger side as it's much easier to get to and weld in...the driver's side would be best only due to Cylinder 5 being an often culprit of when these motors go and start getting stretched tired....but we'll see...I likely will do the PS due to ease but I'll know more this weekend...

 

IC coolant pump harness, reservoir & spark plugs came, all that is outstanding are the gaskets for the TB & coolant crossover & SC hose kit, all from Toyota supposed to come next week.

I wired up the harness & tested the pump, it runs!




Also, I have 2 S&B dry filters I forgot about so have a temporary solution if I can't get the AFE to work.





Also, a new AFE wet, don't know if it's big enough to attach. We'll see.

 

The AFE fits.

 

I have a question for the guys who tow - does the supercharger help engine braking performance? I've watched TFL's towing tests of the TRX and Raptor R and it seems like they do incredibly well not needing brake inputs on downhills.

 

If in tow/Haul, it's the same as NA...you can modify some parameters of the transmission but it's a simple 6 speed compared to the 8 and 10 speeds that have more going on then the pumped up motors...towing us incredible with the SC...makes the truck an actual capable truck...braking is where the differences truly start...no true changes in transmission tho...my tcu optimization I feel has helped but more for moving forward while accelerating vs braking

 

No difference. When engine braking the supercharger is in bypass mode so it's not adding any boost to the engine for the pistons to compress. Maybe on a more sophisticated setup the boost could be allowed when braking and increase the cylinder pressure, but not on our setups.

 

IAT temps and impact on performance; TLDW/BLUF mostly impacts little end:
https://youtu.be/q0t29ScyLvw

 

Soooo.... After doing some "things and stuff" (fattening up the WOT AFRs to safer and seeing I'm blowing through my Inj DC), it appears that it would be prudent to upsize my TRD injectors to the Prospeed 750s (go big or go home, right) and do the @snivilous patented "cut/solder/prune connector mod". As I live in an area where getting things shipped is mildly complicated (it blows), can anyone comment on the shipping method that Prospeed seems to be using (FedEx/UPS/USPS)?

 

This upgrading badass SCs all of a sudden for many of us is wild! Great minds think alike!

Hopefully anyone not USPS helps you out!

 

Why not go with the FiveO injectors? They are drop in and no plug extensions are needed. The discount code I posted earlier will save you $40 making them only $60 more than the prospeed.

 

Oooooh, investigating....!

 

If you sign up for Five-o mailing list you get 10% off, if they still have it. I paid $710

 

Agreed with above, I'd go with the FiveOs. They're probably real 750s too, instead of "750" that's actually a 725 from the company they buy from, that actually test as a 715 in reality

 

Went with the recommended FiveO Motorsports injectors. Thanks gang!

 

IC pump installed. Ran the harness, verified function, disconnected the harness so it's not running. Waiting for the O rings to do the injectors & running the gas out before I can do the pump.

 

It looks like the PS would be easier to weld a bung in...however, to do it "right," one would disconnect at the collector flange and weld accordingly...at that point, one may as well remove the front prop-shaft on DS and install on the DS...this is from underneath, obviously, so here are the pics... I'm thinking 180° from the OE O2 sensors?


@Sniv, can you get under and snap a picture of yours by chance? Or whomever has access to a lift for a quick pic?

 

This is the pic of his that he sent me when I asked him that same question prior to installing mine.

 

It should probably be removed either way like you said to drill the hole for the bung. Metal shavings in the converters can cause hot spots and premature failure I was told by my mechanic. This isn’t mine, but is exactly how mine is installed on the drivers side after the primary O2.

 

Is that area accessible?

 

Pops just picked the rig up. Hasn’t got on it all the way yet but he did say pulling away from the light with partial throttle did light up the 37s easier than the maggy. More info to come as he drives more. I said it’ll come alive when we pulley it up etc. Also added the carbon vented hood to keep that heat out.

 

Not without removing the midpipe, and on the drivers side the driveshaft unfortunately. I’d probably do the passenger since it’s easier lol.

 

That's what I was afraid of.

Regardless I have to remove my TRD skid

Lol

 

At some point would truly love to hear that Whipple!! before all this happened with my truck i had it narrowed down to a Whipple and ProCharger. I was going to do the Whipple,, just to be different and love the way they sound!!!!

 

Awesome! Can you link the hood?

 

The noise is definitely more than the maggy he said. All around noise more whistles and whines

 

Yes please on the hood. That looks very nice!!!

 

https://seiboncarbon.com/products/ts-style-carbon-fiber-hood-for-2014-2021-toyota-tundra.html


And it does work with the factory hood latch and hood struts. You’ll want to either paint it or clear PPF to protect the clear coat from yellowing. I’ll be ordering one soon

 

Carbon looks good

 

Gauge vent install...this vent is easiest but not ideal...life's a journey:

>Pop off trim by prying door-side edge of trim out...pull from there.



>Pop off chrome vent ring at the x3 clasps.




>Pull trim apart by unscrewing x3 small philipshead screws. Separate the parts and put the original vents away.

>Cut out grill inside vented trim piece. I used a pair of dykes/wire trimmers and made it smooth with a chisel.

>Slide GlowShift gauge cradle (

$33 GlowShift Black Single Gauge Air Vent Pod Compatible with Ford Mustang 2015-2021 - ABS Plastic - Mounts (1) 2-1/16" (52mm) Gauge to Vehicle's Air Vent

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B083YVT188?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title )over your PSB-1 and prepare your hold downs to size...I removed approximately 3/16" from each end to fit...






>Measure and cut 1" thick window seal (from any Hardware store) around to fit inbetween the aluminum hold down.





I'm leaving the plastic on gauge face until I next get it all hooked up...next up is getting the bung welded in...after that, a continuation of this saga...


**edit, no I'm not on plastic wrapped gauge face...this looks better! There is still airflow as I didn't completely wrap in the gauge's entirety...I'd say you get the air flowing through 25% of the opening now...which is adequate.





This idea is courtesy of @ssmokedz!

 

Can't be having that!!!