So ... you wanna buy / just bought a 1st Gen Tundra, eh?

I might mod some universal energy I have for the fronts, because I have them.

 

Full Syn 5-30. I think valvoline recently.

 

I hate those damn oil crackheads!

(but good point, I'll chuck that in there)

 

I ordered all new body mounts for crackie, and gave them to the dealership that was swapping my frame. I've never actually changed them myself, but I got new oem ones on!

Here's pics of my old ones.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-45#post-2522807

 

What'd you use to get the bolts out? Just a standard 6 pt box wrench? Not enough space for an impact unfortunately.

 

I don't know. Toyota replaced those when they did the frame.

 

After reading this I believe I definitely need to do my timing belt. I had been planning on doing it myself, definitely wont skimp on parts but would like to save on labor. Plus I'd like to be the one doing most of the work on my truck when I can be. Do you all have any tips for the process, or know of anything else I should do while I have things taken apart? Plan on getting the

$183 AISIN TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

AISIN TKT-021 and a couple other gaskets the kit leaves out. I'd appreciate any input anyone has.

Also this was one helluva post Shifty`. I imagine as I continue to work on my truck I'll be referring to this regularly.

 

How many miles on your truck? If "high" mileage, say around 300k, or so, it'd be a good time to change the alternator too. I regret not changing mine as my voltage regulator is going out in mine.

The best thing you can do is buy a replacement denso alternator from rockauto.com or, do the "Big three" upgrade. See this here link.

 

I had to do the alternator when I first got it around 200k. I’m at 240k now. Pretty sure the timing belt has a 100k on it now… definitely need to do it.

 

Just, whatever you do, don't buy your parts from scAmazon or fleaBay, or WallyMart. The forum auto-links to their sites when you post a part number, and a lot of times it takes you to knockoffs, but even still, all three are known for receiving and re-shipping counterfeit parts.

I recommend checking this post on the "how". https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-on-05-tundra-4-7-2uz-fe.113004/#post-2913731

 

Great information! So wish this was here when I started!

 

This is the kit I went with when I had my timing belt, pulley, and water pump changed out. I went to an independent Toyota mechanic to have the work done. The timing belt is a VERY involved process. You can do it yourself over an entire weekend. I opted to have a pro do it instead.

While you have things apart, check out the cam seals (mine were beginning to leak), and swap out the spark plugs.

 

FWIW, my cam seals developed a leak too, on the driver side. I don't normally do additives, but I read about a product on ih8mud that will supposedly quell leaks without risk of clotting anything or over-swelling gaskets.

More info on that here if you wanted to give it a shot. You can put it in at any time. 1 bottle treats the entire engine. It also helped fix all of my valve cover gasket issues, except where a PO/mechanic didn't FIPG the corners right.

 

I've said it on another thread, but THANK YOU, shifty, for all this information! It's all so helpful.

Related, my cam seals are leaking, so your last post is particularly timely.

 

Appreciate this information dump. I was looking at a 2001 2WD AC with 101K miles that was basically garage kept, and "knew" about some potential rust issues with these frames prior to going out to look at it. I crawled under as much as I could but then came home and found this forum. After seeing the potential rust issues people have dealt with, I brought the car from the used dealer to a local Toyota dealer. We lifted her and noted some surface rust but no perforations. Everyone under it agreed, she's good to go. She'll be home in a week or two after the loan check gets in. Appreciate the plethora of information this forum provides.

 

Don't forget to post up pics! We like pics. Like, a lot.

 

Well done @shifty` , thank you for taking the time!
I'll treat you to Vortex my next time in town!

 

Coronary Bypass, here I come

 

Wow, fantastic post, Shifty!

 

Are you serious about Toyota filters? Surprised to read you suggest OEM. Is this personal opinion or has anything proven wix in inferior?

 

There’s plenty of videos of Toyota filters cut open vs the rest. Wix is a close second. But the oem filters are synthetic media, built really well and offer more media area than all the others. Not to mention they’re cheap

 

Don't get me wrong, I like Wix. However, I've seen the same stuff as EL replying above me here ^^ and I can't argue with that reality.

 

Curious about the headlight resistor for LEDs. I already have the resister and am trying to figure out the best way to mount it. It is kinda big...

Anyone?

 

In another thread a bit more-dedicated to LED lighting problems, I saw members mention installing it on the passenger's side and tapping into that part of the circuit. One resistor, on one side of the circuit only.

 

I still can't figure out my flickering LED fog lights. It's gotten a lot better but still happens occasionally. It makes me wonder if it's something with my alternator. I should probably order a new one this year.

 

Flickering you say? Would putting a big electrolytic cap across the power terminals fix it? Say 1000-2000 uF.

 

Thank you for the Awesome info. I'm Looking at an 03 AC TRD with 211,000 miles on Monday. Glad I found this site and thread. I was a Landcruiser & Taco guy, hopefully moving on to Tundras.

 

It's all in the TSB, I gave you the link to the 1st Gen info thread, which links directly to the TSB. You can order at a discount from Toyota, and finish the order to pick it up at any participating local dealership via https://parts.toyota.com

If you order directly at the Toyota dealership, you'll get no discount, and pay full MSRP price. But on something this small that MSRP is under $2/ea, maybe it's worth just going to the parts counter.

Bolt part number (you need 4): 90119-08895

Here's a direct link to order online if you want: https://parts.toyota.com/p/69393681/90119-08895.html

I assume you already have blue Loctite or similar on-hand.

 

Hey @shifty` question for ya. My new 03' is in the shop now getting the timing belt, water pump, etc etc done. Should I call and make sure they do this FIPG thing? If so, where exactly is this applied so I can let them know.

Thanks!

 

FIPG is just sealant (Form-In-Place Gasket, F.I.P.G.) sort of like caulk or silicone, in a tube, used to create or complete a gasket/seal. It's used in a few places on our trucks, and any mechanic worth their salt will know when and where to use FIPG. If your mechanic doesn't know what FIPG is, or where it's used, you should've never dropped off your truck with them

If anything, tell them to make 100% sure they properly secure the crank position wire harness loom when buttoning things back up. It sometimes gets missed after water pump/timing belt, and you end up with THIS, the crank position wire getting eaten through, which is really fun, your truck just mysteriously stops running after a few hundred or few thousand miles, long after you forgot about this work being done. Your fuel pump won't turn on or stay running, and a lot of people (and mechanics!) can go down a laundry list of replacing things (fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel relay, all kinds of stuff!) trying to throw parts at it.

EDIT: @Erik1989 I had to update the link - bad link given a minute ago. It's OK now.