Duster's Double Cab Build - The Daily Do-it-All

12/31 Update:
No big update. Just an updated picture from spending New Years in Yosemite National Park. Rented a cabin in the park. Had a great time. Just wish Badger Pass had got snow so the wife and I could have done skiing & snowboarding. Boo. Only big change from previous is you can see that I finally mounted my old traction boards and you can see the Renogy solar panel mounted on the roof rack above the passenger side.


Caption: Current Pic of the truck while running some trails west of Las Vegas in the Spring Mountains.

Table of Contents - Modifications in the build thread:

1. ICS Dash Mount & Trigger Controller Six Shooter
   
2. CBI Ditch Light Brackets & 4 LED Floodlights
3. CBI Baja Bumper, 12k Badlands Apex Winch, Heritage Grill, Rigid Lights, & Rav Off Road Marker Lights
4. TRD "Center Caps" for Battle Born Wheels
5. Realigning Front Bumper & Lighting Test
6. DIY TRD Skid Plate Drop - In preparation for suspension lift
7. Icon Suspension Upgrade - Measurement comparison between stock, spacers, & suspension lift
8. Rear Suspension Measurements - Loaded / Unloaded & Pre/Post Leer 100XR Install
9. Northwest Custom Seat Covers + Leer 100XR Pics
10. SwingCase install (dual Swing cases)
11. Changing Leer badging for custom Toyota badges
12. Prinsu Cab Rack installation (& Topper Rack)
13. Lasfit 42" Roof Light bar for Prinsu Rack
14. DesertDoesIt Seatjacker installation
15. RCI Skid Plate Install (Swapped out the TRD Skid Plate)
16. GMRS Radio & Antenna Installation
17. Garmin Mini 2 Dash Cam - Post Install Pics
18. Roof Case Mounting & Toyota White Lettering
19. Upgraded Rear Suspension #2 - Changing to new springs & rear shocks

Mods & upgrades completed prior to starting this build thread:

• 2" Machined T6 Aluminum Lift Spacer from the 2nd Gen Tundra. Installed in February of 2022. Removed in October of 2022 when Icon suspension kit went in.
• Talon's Garage CAT Shield. Self-installed.
• TRD Skid Plate (removed for RCI skid plate), Toyota Tri-fold Tonneau Cover (removed when Leer 100XR was installed), AW Floor Mats, Toyota Predator Steps, & Toyota Black Tailgate Letter Inserts
• Wheel & Tires: 18x9 (+18mm Offset) Battle Born Echo wheels with 295/70/18 Cooper Evo M/Ts
  
• Other Upgrade(s): TVD Vinyl Letter Inserts for the TRD Off Road grille. (Removed when I upgraded to the Heritage grille)

My build "mentality": I plan my purchases to allow my money to go as far as possible. I spend "big" money on large purchases that are not easily replaceable like suspension and bumpers. I tend to save money on items that are easily replaced like LED lights pods. That's how I choose to spend my money.

A side note on me & links: This build is 100% paid for by me. I'm not a content creator so nothing was donated, given to me for review, etc. No links are "affiliate links." I.E. I make no money on anything you click. I'd like to think I'm pretty unbiased.

• I took delivery of my 2022 Tundra SR5 TRD Off Road 4X4 on December 15th, 2021. My truck, by complete luck of the draw, was the first 2022 Tundra to be delivered to my dealership.
• As of July 25th, 2023 - I've got a little over 24,000 miles on my truck with minimal issues that have all been fixed. Minor things like the profile not syncing that were resolved with a head unit update. I've also had the ECU flash and rear axle recalls done. Neither recall ever presented an issue on my truck and were all completed successfully.

A picture history of the truck over the last 19 months:

May of '23 with the Prinsu racks & lightning on the Prinsu:


Feb. of 2023 - Leer 100XR:


November of 2022 - Post Suspension Lift:


October 2022 - After the bumper install:


April of 2022 - Playing on Wheeler Pass near the Charcoal Kilns:


December 15th, 2021 - Right after I took delivery:

 

Ain't a damn thing wrong with Badlands winches

 

ICS Dash Mount & Trigger Controller Six Shooter:

I'll get better at documenting things, but here are my notes & pics from my ICS Dash Mount & Trigger Six-Shooter install.





Install Notes for ICS Dash Mount:

• Install for this was very easy. Total time was maybe 30 mins.
• Using a plastic trim pry tool, the entire top "tray" pops out very easily. Once it's out, you can disconnect the 12V outlet which allows you to remove the entire tray.
• I mounted the ICS Dash Mount to the try using 4 x 1" 8mm bolts with nylock nuts & washers.
• I mounted the Trigger Controller switches to the ICS mount panel using 4 x 1" self tapping screws that drill through the plastic back magnetic panel for the switches.
• I mounted my dash cam to the ICS mounting panel as well and got it off the windshield.
• The cell phone holder from ICS will be used for my Garmin inReach GPS unit that I use while on the trails.

I decided to mount the Trigger Controller box to the top of the passenger side fuse box using 3M double-sided mounting tape. The underside of the Trigger control box is slightly recessed so I had to double up the tape. This is an ideal location, in my opinion, because you can easily reach the battery, tap into a fuse, and reach any accessory lighting. I'm always adding redundancy where I can. There is heat shrink on the positive & negative terminal crimps but I added a dose of electrical tape just to be safe.



Some people wire the Trigger Controller's control wire (the yellow one) directly to the battery. That's fine if you drive everyday but sometimes my truck sits for days at a time. I wanted to wire it to something that was accessory or ignition powered when the truck is on. I used a test light to find a blank fuse that was powered only with accessory/ignition power. There is a blank fuse slot that is wired up (circled in red in the above pic) where I installed a 10amp fuse tap. This provides power to the trigger controller only when the ignition is turned to accessory or the engine is on.


Ignore the barbaric trimming. haha. I notched the inner edge of the fuse box lid to allow my fuse tap wire to run to the outside of the box without interfering with the wire. There is still a hefty lip on the box lid so I think it should be fine still for protection.

 

Looks good! Keep it up!!
What kind of trails are you taking her though?

 

Can you post some pics down the side of the truck to see what the poke looks like please?

 

Summer for us is like most people's winter. haha. We tend to hibernate and stay close to home until the triple digit days start to break toward mid September. There are lots of trails in & around the Spring Mountains. Wheeler Pass is very close to our home and provides some nice elevation gains going up. We've gone up & down Wheeler a few times this season before it got super hot. There's also multiple paths so it can be easy or technical, based on your flavor of the day. We've also done some trails to old mines on BLM land around the Beatty & Rhyolite areas. We've done a lot of the Titus Canyon trail until I got to the point where I didn't want to go any father without a winch or a proper suspension lift.

In the fall, we're planning on heading north to check our the trail up to the Reward Mine in Cali. On that trip, we also want to hit up a lot of the trails in & around Olancha & Lone Pine, CA. Those 2 areas are where they filmed a lot of the movie Tremors...which is kind of a cult classic for me. Hopefully, we'll be able to check out some of the filming locations around there.

Eventually, we want to take a couple of weeks off and hit as much of the PCT as we can, but that's a year or so down the road.

@Tacotundra Check out the media gallery on my profile page: https://www.tundras.com/media/users/kroppduster.71535/. I got you covered.

 

I used to live in SoCal, we would typically go out to Mojave and play around the trails and BLM land out there. A few years ago I did a fun run between 95 and 93 north of Vegas going through "Desert National Wildlife Refuge"
Now I am in North Texas, so far haven't found anything fun to drive through

 

That’s bud exactly what I was looking for!! I may be giving these Nevada boys my business. Thanks

 

Yeah...North Texas/DFW area is pretty tough. I lived in OKC for a number of years so I feel your pain. There might be some trails north of you in the Arbuckle Mountains in Oklahoma, but your nearest trail system worth a darn is probably in the Ouachita Mountains in Arkansas. I've done camping there. It's pretty country.

 

Glad I could help! Battle Born Wheels are good people. I've had nothing but good experiences with them (the wheels & the company) so far.

Veteran-owned small business too.

 

Installed the CBI Ditch Light brackets along with some 4 LED Flood Pods. A little soldering, wire management, and zip ties made for an easy mod. Total time was ~1 hour. Most of which was me trying to remember where I stored my soldering iron. lol

Final look:


Up close shot of the bracket, light pod, and wire management:

• I used some poly-coated metal ties to secure the wire to the bracket. CBI has small "slots" machined into the top of the bracket to give you something to run a cable tie or zip tie through for wire management.

Engine Bay Photo - Cable management, brackets, and wiring:

• Cable Management - Red Boxes - These boxes indicate good places to secure your LED wiring harnesses. I used heavy duty zip ties to sure the wiring from the driver's side along the top of the firewall. There are 3 areas where the trim has holes for factory wiring that allow for easy zip tie access.
• Cable Management - Blue Box - You can lift the factory engine bay plastic trim to run your wiring right up the fuse box where I have my Trigger Control Box mounted.
• Trigger Control Box - Yellow Box - I mounted by Trigger Control Box to the top of the factory fuse box using doubled up, double-sided 3M VHB tape. Seems secure enough for now. If the 3M tape eventually lets loose due to the engine bay heat, I'll run some 1" screws with some Permatex sealant into the top of the plastic box.
• Bracket Mounting Points - Green Boxes - The CBI brackets mount to the hood hinges. Remove 1 bolt, install the mount, reinstall the bolt just tight enough to hold the weight of the hood, remove the 2nd bolt, swing the mount to the 2nd hole location, install the 2nd bolt, and then tighten everything up. I did outline the factory hinges with a black sharpie just to make sure I wouldn't mess with the factory alignment of the hood. Neither side moved during the install so it wasn't an issue, but better safe than sorry.

Up close of bracket mount & cable management:

• Red Box is the area where I used zip ties for cable management.
• Blue box is a closer shot of the ditch light bracket mounting location.

 

NExt big project coming up...

Full CBI bumper install. It will probably be a couple of weeks though. I need to find a full weekend where I'm free to allow for the install. I know it's going to be an all day affair on Saturday & Sunday.

 

Hey KroppDuster, Cant wait to see the build with the new front bumper! Have you thought about what lights you going to run in that fog light opening? I saw some pictures of it and it looks like some Squadron and S2s that we offer would fit great in this location. Ill throw the links for them along with a link to your truck on our website so you can take a look. Feel free to email or pm me directly about any questions you may have.
Best,
Brandon
Website Link:https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/?page=1&vid=511960512
Squadron Link:https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/squadron-sport-black-led-auxiliary-light-pod-pair/?sku=557815
S2 Link:https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/s2-sport-black-led-auxiliary-light-pod-pair/?sku=547813

 

Looks good.

 

Hopefully, I'll be starting on the bumper and everything next weekend. I ended up catching COVID and I've been down for a couple of weekends. Feeling much better and hoping to start on the project this coming weekend.

 

About mid-day on Saturday Sept 24th I began the front end upgrade on my 2022 Tundra. It was the culmination of 5 major projects:

1. CBI full bumper install
2. 12k Badland Apex Winch install
3. Heritage/TRD Pro (whatever your label preference is) front grill install - P/N 53101-0C220
4. Removal of the front end chrome
5. Front end lighting install, including the Rav Offroad TRD Pro grill marker lights

I got a late start on Saturday the 24th and this whole adventure took me 3.5 days. Essentially 2 weekends. I picked a week where I knew that I wouldn't need my truck during the week so I was able to take my time. I'm not as young as I used to be so I was glad I could mosey through the project without having to rush.

How it started - Saturday the 24th at about lunch time:


Front end off - Later that afternoon:


Saturday Afternoon - 9/24: Laying out the hardware and parts to check that I had everything. Here I ran into a slight problem. I noticed that I was missing 1 bracket from CBI. It was "Z" bracket that acts as the new center support for the active grill shutters. CBI was great in correcting this. I contacted them late Monday & got a response on Tuesday morning. They sent the part via UPS 2 Day and I had it in my hands that Thursday at no charge.


Late Saturday Afternoon - 9/24: I had previously ordered the basic black plastic upper mustache piece to replace the chrome (new mustache P/N 531110C420). It comes as a gloss black from Toyota. I decided to Plastidip it. After 6 coats of Plastidip (2 light starter coats & 4 heavy finish coats waiting 30 mins between coats) it looked good. I let it cure for 24 hours after the final coat. I know a lot of people swear by Plastidip, but my experience has been very hit & miss with it so I decided to test the durability. I tossed (emphasis on the word tossed...I did not throw fastballs) a few small pebbles at it. I knew that it was going to be susceptible to rock chips being on the front so I wanted to ensure it would hold up over time. It did not. Even after 6 coats and ample time to cure, I noticed that the pebbles were able to knock the Plastidip off. So I stripped it and just kept the OE black finish. If I want to do something later, I'll have it wrapped in black. No big deal. I'm glad I tried it.


Sunday - 9/25: Next came prepping the grill by disconnecting & mapping the sensors. You can see in my pic that I labeled every sensor connector. This is important because the parking sensor connections are location specific, so you need to keep track of what connector goes to which parking sensor. Some connectors, like the factory fog light connectors, you won't reconnect since the factory fogs are removed & discarded during install.


Sunday - 9/25: My tripod dog that I adopted from the shelter 2 years ago was my helper. His name is Chance and he's a Doberman-mix for anyone curious. I had my truck parked on the side of my house and I kept walking in & out of the garage. He supervised the entire install.


Late Sunday - 9/25: Got the winch tray and the winch set in place. A few items of note here. First off, I thought I might need to relocate the winch control box based on other's experiences with other winches. You can see in the first pic that I have it disconnected, but I left it in place during the first fitment test. Turns out, the control box is fine where it is. Secondly, regarding the coolant line relocation: You can see from the other pics how I rerouted the intercooler coolant line that crosses the front clip. I was careful to keep gentle bends and secure it with heavy duty zip ties to eliminate any movement so they wouldn't chaff/rub and eventually cause a hole down the line. I also added some shielding to some of the parts just to give them an added layer of protection. It might be overkill but better safe than sorry.

Note: The green boxes show the areas where I secured & relocated the coolant line. You can also see the gray tube shielding that I added in several places. More up close pics below.





Saturday - 10/1: Winch power cable routed up into the engine bay and the battery cut off switch installed. I punched through the plastic engine bay trim (it's fairly rigid) and mounted the cut off switch there since I already had my Trigger Control Box mounted to the top of the fuse box.


Saturday Afternoon - 10/1: The front bumper shell is set in place. I do applaud CBI's 2-piece design. I can see how it'll make taking the front shell off easier in the future if I ever need to service the winch and/or other front end components. When I say easier....they've made it about as easy as moving a 120lb piece of steel can be. haha. It's still tough. It was definitely a 2 person job. I thought about trying it with a transmission jack, but that was a no-go. Thanks to my wife to helping here. It did take awhile and a few tires to get it aligned enough for the 8 carriage bolts (4 per side) to slot through their holes. Be prepared to hold this up in the air for longer than you anticipate.

Note: In the pic, you can also see the 30" amber light bar and the 2 Rigid Industries D2 Amber (though they look clear) fog lights. The Rigid D2s are perfect for this install. You need a fog light with a mounting bracket that is VERY close to the body. The 3" light pod with mounting bracket can't be more than 3.15"-3.25" tall.


Sunday - 10/2: This day was 100% consumed with finishing work. Things like: Routing cables so the engine bay doesn't look messy, fitting the front end grill, soldering connections & wiring everything to the Trigger Control Box, etc.

Note: Be sure to place tape (or some type of protection) on the mustache as you slide the grill in place to keep from scratching it. See the 2 pieces of blue painter's tape I used on the grill.


Sunday Afternoon - 10/3: The final product.

Note: Even though my cut lines are the exact same and I measured multiple times, the gap on the far right & left ends of the OE plastic trim are off. There's about a 1" difference in the gap between the CBI bumper and the OE plastic trim. There is the same amount of plastic "material" remaining on each side above my cut, but the gap is still off slightly. Honestly, I'm happy enough with the overall look that I'll probably just leave it. I don't care enough to fiddle with the fitment anymore, because project this is all about functionally for me. This truck isn't built for SEMA or for "looks." haha. It's good enough for me.

2nd Note: I'll eventually snap a pic of the lights on. I took it on a 40 min test drive after these pics to make sure all was well and was super tired when I got home. I didn't remember to grab any night pics of the lights. Everything works though and I'm very impressed.

3rd Note: Every now & then, during my test drive, I would get a phantom "ping" on my front driver's side inner sonar sensor. It's fairly random and happened only three times early on in the drive. I'll keep an eye on it and adjust as needed. The parking sensor "mounts" are removed from the factory plastic front end and relocated to the CBI bumper during install. They're secured with 3M tape. The amount of 3M tape you add to the OE sensor mounts ultimately determines where the sensor "faces." I.E. It could face slightly up or down based on the amount of the tape you add. If it continues to happen or gets worse, I'll play around with the amount of tape and adjust it.

4th Note: I have not reinstalled my TRD Skid Plate. Only because I'm expecting my Icon suspension lift to arrive soon and I know I'll have to add spacers to it to accommodate for the sway bar drop kit. So I'll run without it for a little while until I get the new suspension installed.




Bonus Project! - Sunday 10/2: My rear bed step arrived during the week mid-bumper install so I installed that as my last "project" for the weekend.

Note: I know it'll slightly reduce my departure angle, but I love the convenience. Well worth the $250 I spent on it.



All in all...I'm very pleased with how this turned out. I'm happy to answer any questions for folks interested in this project or have any constructive advice for me.

Next Project: Icon Stage 4 Suspension install for the front and Dobinsons + OME Coils + Icon Adjustable Track Bar + extended rear brake lines for the rear. I'll also be installing the new Icon front & rear bumpstops. Probably 3(ish) weeks out from that happening. I have all the rear components in hand right now. Waiting on the Stage 4 kit and bumpstops from Icon right now.

 

Not a major upgrade with this post, but small things can add cool flair. Also, after the last 2 weekends of doing the major front end work (see post above), I'm glad to have a small, quick project.

I noticed that two of the Battle Born center cap stickers on my wheels were starting to peel. So I snagged some 70mm vinyl "TRD" stickers off of eBay. They fit perfectly and look like they were made to go on these center caps. I like how they look.

Some items of note:

• I didn't measure before I ordered. I just eye-balled it. My first set of these center cap stickers were too small (they were 60mm). Had to order a second set at the right size. Measure once, cut twice...I always say! hahaha
• I could only find 2 sellers on eBay that carried the size I needed. One was in Thailand and the other was in Eastern Europe. Both took about 30 days to get here. Maybe smaller sizes are more readily available or maybe domestic sellers were just out of stock when I looked.

Application: I cleaned all of the old adhesive residue off with Goo Gone first and then isopropyl alcohol to ensure a clean surface. Hopefully, the TRD stickers will last awhile.

 

Realigning the front bumper shell:

I pointed out in my install write up above that I noticed the bumper shell wasn't sitting even after install. The gap on the DS was about .5" and the gap on the PS was about 1.25". 90% of people wouldn't have noticed the misalignment, but I did and it started to annoy me more & more when I looked at it. So I decided to take care of it. To be honest, the bumper shell install is a 2 person job and my wife helped me. It was he only part of the install where I needed some help so I was trying to do it quickly and probably didn't pay the most attention to the alignment.

I first loosened up the 8 carriage bolts holding on the front bumper to the frame brackets. There are 4 on each side. The space is a little tight, but you're able to access these even with the grill on. No need to remove anything to do this, which is very nice. Between a ratchet with extension & a combination wrench, I was able to hit all 8 bolts. I also loosened the 2 large bolts that hold on the fairlead. The fairlead is another mounting point for the shell because it bolts through the shell & into the winch/frame plate. So with the CBI bumper there are 10 points that hold the shell to the frame. Very solid.

With all of those loose (don't fully remove them), I could move the shell up & down about .75" - 1". I used my 3 ton jack with wood blocks to hold up one side while I pushed up from underneath on the other side. I got everything tight enough to hold the weight and then put my level on it. I made sure the angle of the bumper, the truck, and the ground all matched. Once that was done, I tightened everything back up. Good to go! Looks much better.

Regarding my light package:

I snapped a few pics of the lights on at night. Everything except my ditch lights. Sorry for the low quality night shots. lol

Rave Off Road Marker Lights:
We had some rain over the weekend (it's still monsoon season here in the desert for a couple more week) and I have not noticed any moisture intrusion into the housings. I did seal up the hole where the LED wire passes through the 3D printed mount with some RTV sealant.


Rigid D2 Amber Pod Lights:
I like how the lights look white when off but are amber when illuminated. Just a cool touch.


30" "Amber" (more like Yellow) Light Bar:
I couldn't get a great pic of the light bar. It is so...damn...bright. Which is good, but hard to snap a pic. I can't wait to see this thing in action on some dirt roads out on BLM land at night.

 

Got word over the weekend that my Icon setup is inbound, so I did a little prep work on my skid plate. Knowing the TRD Skid Plate doesn't seem to play nice with sway bar drop brackets, I wanted to be prepared.

I reached out to the Icon technical team who confirmed their drop bracket was .75" thick. So I ordered the following from McMaster to drop the skid plate:

• 18-8 Stainless Hex Bolt - M8 x 1.25mm Thread - 45mm (Need 4 for the front 4 skid plate bolts)
• 18-8 Stainless Hex Bolt - M8 x 1.25mm Thread - 50mm (Need 2 to compensate for the skid + cat plate)
• LDPE Unthreaded Spacer - .75" OD, .75" Long (Need 6 - I chose LDPE because it's nearly 100% nonabsorbent/nonporous and won't "swell" from moisture like nylon will. I also wanted to avoid any metal spacers to prevent corrosion from dissimilar metals rubbing against each other.)
• 316 Stainless Steel Washer - .328" ID - .056"-.07" Thick (Need 6. You can go a little bigger on the OD than I did, but these worked. Anything smaller wouldn't work).

Here are some pics of the spacers installed. The spacers have to go behind the skid plate, which makes install a little funky but it wasn't too bad. I was able to do it by myself and hold the spacers in place on the backside while holding the plate up.

On a side note: Dropping the skid plate makes it more visible from the front. It's just an added cosmetic benefit since one complaint about the plate is that it sits so tight to the frame that you can't see the "TRD" from the front unless you bend down. Add some points for extra cool factor, I guess. lol

New front view with the dropped skid plate:


Front Spacer - Close up shot:


Rear spacers where they meet the Cat Shield.
Note: This is where I needed the slightly longer bolts, but if you don't have a Cat Shield then you can use the 45mm bolts for all 6 spots.


Mid plate spacer:


Side view showing the extra clearance:


I'll confirm the spacers play nice with the sway bar drop bracket once it's installed. I'm not anticipating any issues since I'm dropping the plate by the same amount as the drop bracket, but we'll see.

 

KD, could you confirm the exact part number you ordered for the spacer? I am doing the same thing you did, but can't determine the correct ID for the spacer to bolts you used

 

@Buellride Sorry for the delayed response. Was outside most of the day and just now saw this.

Here is a screenshot of most of that McMaster order. P/N for that spacer is 92825A203. I thought my links would go to the direct P/N but I guess not. Comes in a pack of 20 I believe. It’s overkill but never hurts to have spares. I’m sure a couple will roll away and disappear each time I do an oil change so worth having extras on hand in my case. Lol

Hope this helps! Let me know if you run into any trouble.

 

Perfect! Thank you KD

 

This is now post Icon/Dobinsons/OME installation & suspension upgrade. I opted to keep the Icon front coilovers with their "pre-set" amount of preload as they come from Icon. At that setting, I basically regained all of the ride height that I lost when I installed the 300lbs of bumper & winch up front. I still have quite a but of adjustment left in the front to increase the ride height, as needed. See pics below.

I'm waiting to install my Decked system + either a Leer 100XR or RSI SmartCap (still deciding between the two) to set my final ride height. With no major payload in the bed currently, I'm running with about 2.25" of rake. I estimate 80% of that will be eliminated with the Decked & Leer or SmartCap. Once the rear settles to final ride height, I'll adjust the front as needed to have a minimal amount of rake. I'll probably keep about an inch worth of rake for cargo & gear.

For those curious, this is my suspension setup:

• Front: Icon 2.5 Coilovers VS Internal Reservoir, Icon Bump Stops, Icon Tubular UCAs
• Rear: OME 2866 Coils, Dobinsons 2.5 IMS Shocks, Icon Adjustable Rear Trackbar, Extended Brake Lines, & Icon Bump Stops.

Ride Height #'s are as follows (ground to bottom of fender):

With 2" Spacer only (pre bumper & winch):

• Front - 39.5" (Both sides)
• Rear - 39.5" DS Rear & 39.75" PS Rear

With 2" Spacer after Bumper & Winch:

• Front - 38.25" (Both sides)
• Rear - 39.5" DS Rear & 39.75" PS Rear

With Full Suspension Upgrade & winch + bumper:

• Front - 39.25" both sides
• Rear - 41.5" both sides

Note: Icon allows for 1.125" of exposed threads on the preload. Though the pic makes it look like more, this is only about .75" of exposed threads. So I can raise my front end up more, as needed. On average, 4 rotations of the preload collar will raise the ride height of the truck by about a .5"

 

Curious what caps are on your wheels? I have the same battleborn wheels, but it looks like I'm seeing red on your caps? Truck looks awesome!

 

I bought some 70mm TRD center caps off of eBay that are made of resin. They're a little pricy for what they are, but I like how they turned out. Most of these are produced by overseas sellers. I've seen them cheaper on eBay but this is about what I paid at the time I pulled the trigger on them.

Link: 70mm Stickers Resin Reflect Logo Decor Emblem Wheels Center Caps for TRD 4pcs.

I just pulled off the old BattleBorn stick-on resin center caps and used a combo of a heat gun & goo gone to get the residual adhesive off. Then prepped the surface with rubbing alcohol before applying these. They've survived a couple of months now.

 

Nice build, KD!

 

Thank you!

It’s true what my father once told me: As you get older, the hobbies only get more expensive. Haha.

 

Hey, lifting mine with icon this week, I want to extend my rear brake lines as well, two questions. Where did you get yours? And do you know it 2021 tundras extended lines fit a 3rd gen 2022? I thought I read somewhere they did. Thanks.

 

I got mine from YotaMafia. Link here to their extended brake lines. They're running their holiday sale right now so you can snag a set for cheaper than I did.

As for the connections, they're the same with the older generation but only for the rear brake lines. The fronts are different.

I toyed with snagging a set of fronts, but I'm convinced you only need to extend the front if you go long travel or a 6" lift. I've got plenty of slack at full droop with my current setup.

 

Great build, I was wondering why you went with Dobinsons in the rear over the icons?