Crackhead resurrection

According to the "big 3" post, yes. If you have the right tools, Dave's right, it's a no-brainer. But if not, I guarantee you'll be sinking an extra 20-30min into taking this ear off. If you don't have a band saw, you might be able to use a jigsaw w/bi-metal blade or cutoff wheel, but that's pretty tedious.

Big3 post shows the oval connector'd alternator has 2 ears - note the ear directly across from the power post & oval plug, and the absence of one in between those two on the left right half: https://www.tundras.com/attachments...3/?temp_hash=9e892dd16715aba6074ef4858a3def96

My 100A has three ears: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/upload_2022-1-30_21-7-39-jpg.693605/

This is the ear you need to cut off: https://www.tundras.com/attachments...8/?temp_hash=9e892dd16715aba6074ef4858a3def96

Alternate shot from the other side: https://www.tundras.com/attachments...4/?temp_hash=9e892dd16715aba6074ef4858a3def96

Shot of what needs to be cut and how: https://www.tundras.com/attachments...0/?temp_hash=9e892dd16715aba6074ef4858a3def96

Shot of it once it's cut off: https://www.tundras.com/attachments...8/?temp_hash=9e892dd16715aba6074ef4858a3def96

 

@shifty` @daveeasa see the above quotes. I may not need to lop that ear off after all. Wonder if I could find an OEM stud for that hole.
Also, Dave. In plain English: "Please send me an OEM 4 pin connector so I can repin my harness."

Can anyone with a 2003 or newer tundra post up a similar picture of the alternator like I found in that quote?

 

I'll try to get a picture of it on the truck but here's a 130a and 150a side by side if it helps.

 

As I asked for via DM a few days ago, I believe my address for you is out of date? It'd be great if you can confirm the ship to address for Noah

 

Yeah, I remember reading it may not be necessary and I'm not even sure if Jason lopped or didn't lop, I wasn't around whenever he put it in and I didn't get a good visual the couple of times I looked closer at it.

 

That does help a little bit! Thanks! I've been screening youboob videos to see how the third ear is supposed to look. These are the "best" shots that I've found so far from a Double cab.


Here's another screen grab from right before removal.


Post removal, prior install. 3 mounting points. 3rd ear is stud with nut.


Mid-Install.



I think I could just stuff a long bolt in there with washers as spacers behind the ear. I'd really rather have that stud, and nut though...

Address is still the same. Sorry I haven't been as quick to get back to anybody as I used to be. (I realize this reads as passive aggressive, and I don't intend for it to sound that way Dave. Please don't take it that way. I suck with wording stuff lately.)

 

Cool, that's all I needed as I didn't want a box of stuff to go to your pops and have you on the other side of the state or something...

 

I appreciate you Dave! Love this forum, and the people on it! Even if it did go to pops, we'd have figured out a way to get it to me!

 

It might be because I'm on the company pewter, and all the "good" toyota parts center websites are blocked, but I can't find an exploded parts diagram that shows the 3rd ear or stud for any tundra or sequioa. Maybe one of them there gurus with an "unlocked" computer could help a homie out.

 

I can try to run down the p/n for you tonight.

I don't think anyone took it that way ... JERK!

 

I might have found one website I can use on the company pewter. Here's a link to what all these images are from. EDIT: This is a link to a 2006 Toyota Sequoia SR-5 4WD parts diagram.

I've highlighted what I believe to be the correct parts.


We'll start with the easiest to decipher. The nut flange. Part #: 90179-10144. Replaced by Nut Flange - Toyota (90178-A0089)

Next is the stud... Part #: 90068-04001. Replaced by Bolt - Toyota (90068-04019). Not 100% sure thats the right stud/bolt combo.

 

It's a one-piece unit, like a bolt with a nut in the middle, typical for accessory/belt kits on blocks. Used to deal with these a lot switching between different accessory setups on LS swaps, typically short end goes into the block. I agree, the diagram is weird. Here's the one from my 2006, it shows 90068-04019 (90068-04001 is the old part). It's a spendy ass bolt, and the nut appears to be 90179-10144 :

 

I'll give an order to Serra/McGeorge, and see if its right when it gets here. Time will tell. I'd like to figure out what is the correct one so I can add this info to the Big 3 upgrade thread.

 

Just placed an order from McGeorge for Nut Flange 90178-A0089 ($1.97), and Bolt 90068-04019 ($12.80). Total with economy shipping was $25.91.

 

Ooof.

 

It's not that bad for SCIENCE!


Let me know what I owe you on shipping that alternator.

 

I'll hit you up on that. Will need to get address again, because I lose that stuff. I also need to find a box.

 

I'm borrowing this picture from @tyler-brown.
The thread this came from can be found here -> Starter and misc.



So there's two knock sensors. Are they both the same part number? I'm planning to replace the starter, injectors, and manifold gaskets proactively. Debating on changing those too depending on cost. I'd like to go OEM. Do the sensors actually go bad?

 

Yeeeeesh... maybe I'll order some NTK's from rockauto or just leave em alone...

 

Leave 'em be.

 

I think I got about 100-something miles on my truck after throwing a knock code this week, no new codes. Only thing I've done since is change the oil, new overdue spark plugs, and full bottle of Seafoam in a half-full tank. If they're not chewed and you're not throwing codes, they're too f'n expensive to replace

 

After looking at pictures of my engine block with everything off of it... I'm drawing a blank at what that stud/bolt is for other than mounting the alternator... I don't see a seam like it's holding anything on there, or keeping a seal in place...


Possible seam above the bottom blue line...

 

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that drives like a maniac. Hey the hard shudder on acceleration at around 4:55, that's exactly what my truck was doing from a bad carrier bearing. If you've already replaced your carrier bearing, then I don’t know.

 

It was replaced by Toyota when they did the frame! The speed limit through there is about 45... you can hear the speed call outs in the video.

 

Yeah I heard the callouts..... it was YOU callin out 70 mph

 

Even Mr. Maintenance PHM decided not to replace the knock sensors for the same reason. They can go bad but given the cost it might be best to leave them.

 

I didn't replace em either time I had mine off. Just remember, no ITM intake gaskets.

 

I've got OEM me thinks stashed away. I can't remember which tote of parts they're in, and I can't remember if I've got both the upper and lower plenum gaskets. I'll have to do some email scouring

 

That’s a lot of money for a military grade piezoelectric sensor that probably costs less than a dollar to make.