RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Half tempted to make a few for people. Finding more reasonably priced connectors than getting them from Toyota would be ideal. Looks like I also found them on hi-1000ec, but the thing with them is you have to pay a pretty high price for shipping so I usually try to buy a larger quantity to justify it.

 

That is my plan. Currently, I'm planning on using this setup that was originally done by @needsmoresalt in his built. I've got the parts printed and I think it's going to be the least fugly option (compared to all the other 3D printed panels that don't match the rest of the interior).
https://www.tundras.com/threads/roof-console-removal-modification.17615/page-2#post-2017972

 

I completely forgot about those brackets. I should have looked into that before hacking up my console, but I’m happy with how mine turned out using the shifter panel bezel from SDHQ

 

Yes - I saw yours. It does look good.
I've got the moon roof switches and the SOS button up there, so most of the other options out there won't work. And I, on occasion, actually use that spot to hold something so those little brackets seemed like a good option for me.

 

Updated the Air Compressor post with the completed power installation.

Now I need to make up a kick-ass air-up hose kit to throw in the ESP box...but first I need to get some home projects done before my wife has my head!

 

Got another small mod knocked out tonight - added the reverse lights to my rear bumper.

I had picked up a set of BD S2 Pro flush-mount backup lights that @Tbrandt had for sale, which is perfect since that is what the spaces in my CBI rear bumper are set up for.

Of course, me being me, I didn't want to just tap them into the lights on the truck, so I decided to make up a custom jumper harness from the reverse light in each tail light to feed them.
To do that, I needed a pair of the factory female connectors for the reverse light socket, and the mating male connectors to make short little jumper harnesses.

• (2) 90980-11019 two-way female waterproof connector (Corsa Technic part TS090-2S-4, including terminals and seals for 16AWG wire)
• (2) 90980-11486 two-way male waterproof connector (Corsa Technic part TS090-2P-4, including terminals and seals for 16AWG wire)

In addition, the kit I bought came with a 10-foot extension cable (and a switch wiring harness with relay, which I am not going to use). One end had the needed connector end, and the other did not (but each of the lights comes with an un-terminated connector to mate up with the one on the end of the light pigtail). So I cut the one harness end off with about a 16" long pigtail, and then cut another piece the same length and made it up with one of the terminal/connector kits from the lights to make a second pigtail.

The I grabbed some short pieces of 16AWG wire (each one 3" long to be exact) and spliced things together with heat-gun solder/shrink sleeves to make up two 6" long jumpers with a back-up light pigtail incorporated. On the S2 lights, White is power and Black is ground. On the factory lights, Blue/Red (pin 1) is power and White/Black (pin2) is ground. Just make sure to match these up correctly - I happened to use light blue and white wires for the harness because that's what I had (leftover from my SP9100). These are the factory female housings:



After making up the harnesses, I did a quick wrap job with black tape, and then dropped them down through the tail light opening to drop down by the bumper and reconnected everything to the tail lights. (Sorry for the crappy photos, it was dark and I had to use a flashlight). You can also see the blinker resistor harness in this photo.


Down inside the bumper, I connected the S2 connectors to the light pods and tucked things up into the bumper, using a zip tie on the hole in the sheet metal you see in this picture.


Then I jumped in the truck and tested it out - man, that's a lot of light out behind me now! (Unfortunately, it's hard to turn the truck on and put it in reverse while ALSO trying to take a picture, so I'll have to get one another time with the lights lit up).


Update 10/22/23
Swapped out the lenses on these for some clear work/scene lenses. They should provide less distance but more width to the area they light up, which should be perfect for reverse lights.

 

Awesome Setup RainMan_PNW. I would love to hear how the lights are working for you.

 

I need to go back up somewhere after dark and see. Been too busy tonight.
I’m also looking forward to trying my SSO front bumper back from powder coat so I can get my S8 light bar set up too!

 

Definitely post a picture when that's all on! I would love to see how that looks.
Best,
Brandon

 

Been making progress on the Switch Pros and the winch/bumper setup. I'm waiting for some longer leads for the winch, and having our shop make me up a custom mount for the winch control box to set up above the battery in the engine bay. My wife is ready for me to not spend every weekend working on my truck for a while, and winter is coming so I need to get them wrapped up and focus on inside projects in the house anyway.

A tease of the winch controller mock-up...

 

Wicked! Tight fit with that winch box for sure. I’ll be doing my switch pros here soon.

 

It looks tighter than it is - should be plenty of room once it's all done.

 

Finally got the Switch Pros SP9100 install done (aside from actually getting anything hooked up to it yet).
Routed the SP9100 controller cable up into the overhead console


then down the drivers' A-pillar


Then routed through the firewall grommet and out/up to the module in the engine bay.


Next, I moved on to mounting the actual controller.
I decided to use the design that @needsmoresalt posted up a while ago - he graciously shared the design on Thingiverse and I printed one for myself.
SP9100 switch panel for Tundra third gen by needsmoresalt - Thingiverse

I opted to use button-head screws for the attachment, and found some at the local hardware store in black oxide finish. The top two are #2-56 x 3/8" with a nut and washer, and the bottom two are M3-0.5 x 6mm that I drilled and tapped into the plastic (there isn't a good place for a nut and washer on the inside). I cut a hole in the console to feed the cable into, and then another in the black section to feed it where I could get to the connector with just removing the middle trim piece.






The cable from the engine bay routes through the oversized opening for the moonroof switch and connects to this controller, then I snap in the moonroof switch trim and we're set:


I still need to decide what each button will be and get the labels in place. And I need to finish terminating the lead wires to waterproof plugs in the engine bay to be ready for installing actual accessories to them. The SSO bumper with S8 light bar will be the first thing tied into this setup.

10/12/22 update - Here’s a shot of the factory connectors with sealed plugs that I am using for connecting the Switch Pros leads to individual loads. As I add a new device, I pull the black plug out of the connector and plug in a male terminal into the housing. This also allows an easy way to disconnect the power setup from the loads in smaller “banks” similar to the factory harnesses. I also loomed up the wires to tidy things up a bit.

 

Where are you sourcing the wire for the winch relocation? Making your own cables or buying an off the shelf kit? Wanting to make my own but after the cost of cable and all the odds n ends bits you get with the kits, might just be worth it to go that way instead of diy.

 

I’m buying some premade cables off Bezosmart, but doing all the relocation work myself. As I get that closer to done I’ll put up details.

 

Nice work! What are the details around the overhead LED light?

 

MESO Customs map lights
Tundra Ultimate Map Lights – MESO CUSTOMS LLC

 

This one’s been a long time in the making… the SSO Slimline Hybrid front bumper is installed!

I placed my order back in the end of February (universal, bull bar, S8 light bar cut-out, no finish). The shipping notification came the day before I hit the deer in June. I got it over to a powder coater in August. I’ve been trying to get all the other parts rounded up and installed that I needed to finish the installation of everything at once, and finally got it all in this past weekend.

Prep work was a huge part of the process - getting everything into the bumper and figuring out the little details before tearing into the front end and actually installing.

I also ordered the SSO fairlead license plate mount (we have to have them here) and their bumper hole inserts.

First was mounting the BD S8 30” light and SmittyBilt X20 Gen3 12K winch. Be prepared to remove and reinstall the winch a few times while checking fit and messing around with mounting options. It does appear that future access to the front of the S8 (I’m toying around with changing the outer two lenses to amber) is possible without having to pull the bumper, which is an advantage over many of the options out there.




Some important notes about this picture above:

• I pulled the controller box off completely, because I mounted it up above the battery.
• The spool clutch lever housing I rotated forward so it is facing the front of the bumper hole. This position interferes with the S8 light bar, but I solved that with a minor modification to the lever (I’ll highlight this later). I felt that leaving the lever in the original position would take a contortionist with the arms of a 6-yr-old to reach up into the opening and actually turn, while this position puts it easy to reach (though still a little awkward) right inside the opening.
• I took the “armor” stuff off of both sides. It’s a little ghey, and serves no purpose (mostly - more on that too) when nestled into the bumper like this is.
• In the picture, the “armor” mount on the driver’s side is removed, but I ended up putting it back on to provide some mounting points for zip ties for cable management.
• You can also see the pigtail for the S8 light in this photo.

Here it is prepped with the cables.

• The three power cables are
  2 AWG Gauge Marine Grade Battery Cables, Made in USA, Fully Assembled with Heavy Duty Tinned Lugs, 1ft-15ft Lengths Available
  6ft long 2AWG leads from Bezosmart (USA made they say though) and are upsized from the factory red power lead
• The ground cable is the factory original. After I got the bumper installed, I adjusted the ground cable routing to follow the red markup and route with the other cables.
• The BD S8 has a BD “Upfitter Wiring Harness” attached to it to get me the length to get up into the engine bay
• I used a couple of opposing screw-mount zip ties to anchor the cables on driver’s side of the winch housing, and attached them using the “armor” screws from the winch.
• Over the power cable lugs, I trimmed the “armor” so that just the top part was intact, and attached it as a bit of a splash guard over the lugs.

Moving on to the clutch lever, I found that I needed to trim about 1/2” off of the shorter side of it so that it could rotate and clear the light. The lever is held in place by a screw from the side of the housing (5mm allen head if I recall). It has some grease on it, so I covered the greased part in a plastic bag with some tape and then held it in a vise while cutting off the end with a hacksaw (it is aluminum and cuts very easy).


Then I used a file to round off the burrs and edges, and put some Birchwood Casey “

$11 Birchwood Casey Fast-Drying Fast-Acting Aluminum Black Metal Finish Touch-Up Pen for Restoring Scratched and Marred Areas

aluminum black” on it just to darken it up a bit before installing it back into the winch housing.

Sunday was the day to do surgery. I started out at 8am with an oscillating cut-off tool cutting up my front bumper valence - I found it worked much better than trying to use a dremel. The rest of the SSO instructions are pretty clear for pulling apart the front end to prep for the bumper.




I also had to stop every 3 minutes and throw the ball for the dog…

Following their instructions to temp “mount” the bumper parts and prepping the bumper to actually go on the truck…I used a floor jack on some plywood to get it lifted up close and then some careful deadlifting and gentle persuasion to get it up onto the frame studs and resting on it’s own weight.


These pictures show the winch clearance to the power steering cooler (I think that’s what those lines are for), and also shows the ground lead routing off the winch along/near the other cables. Things are snug, but nothing is touching anything else.




Next comes dicking around getting the extension “wings” bolted up to hold the outer bumper/fog-light sections, and getting things aligned/evened out, and the nuts all tightened. That is a PAIN IN THE ASS - reaching up through/around the black plastic cowling, trying to adjust, tighten, readjust, fully-tighten, and doing it with no room to move and at odd contorted angles. My hands cramped up about 5 times, and I didn’t take any pictures. Several times I seriously contemplated why I didn’t just go the full bumper replacement route.

Here is a picture of the winch clutch through the bumper opening. Also note the SSO instructions say to use flat head “cone” screws for the lower skid plate, but they no longer do that and instead use button head cap screws. I prefer this look myself.


For winch power cable routing, I pulled the driver side radiator air dam off and routed under/behind it and zip tied to one of the holes that the SDHQ Switch Pros mount uses (so you might have to do something different if using that mount).




Then I route up around the battery - the three power cables go to the passenger side and the ground goes to the drivers side and up over the battery direct to the ground lug. The S8 wiring harness routes around the passenger side and will connect up into 1. The switch pro (for full power) and 2. A wire off the ignition tap to power the backlight function whenever the truck is turned on.


Put the radiator air dam back in place and hook up the light


Then get the rest of the parts all put back in place


Then get to work with the winch power box mount - this is a mock-up of 1/4” plywood, while the final one is 1/8” stainless steel. This location gives me full access to the plug-in port and wired/wireless switch without having to reach up inside a little (likely dirty) hole.


Here are the dimensions


I’ve got a hole through the long end that attaches it to the front anchor point of the Rago air compressor mount I’m using for the power tray, and a hole in the short end to “sandwich” a washer plate to the front of the truck frame. There are four 1/8” holes drilled to match the hole spacing under the winch controller, and then I just used the original screws to attache the controller to the plate.

The power leads run up into the bottom of the controller, and the battery lead is a

$14 Spartan Power Red 2 Foot 2 AWG Battery Cable, Positive Only 5/16" M8

2ft 2AWG power lead that I drilled out one lug to 3/8” to work with the Blue Sea battery switch (wiring details to come).





Then, button it all up, shut the lid, step back, and grin ear to ear…


OK - Buttoned up the winch controller mount tonight.
This piece is cut from 1/8” thick 304L stainless. The holes for the controller box mount are 1/8” DIA and are per the red dimensions here (one of the dimensions is black but the lines are red):


The holes for mounting the “bridge” piece to the truck are “as needed” - meaning the one end is a 9/64” DIA hole that lines it up with the front leg hole on the Rago mount (which is threaded 1/4-20, so I am using a slight longer button head cap screw), and the other end is a 1/4” DIA hole for an M6 bolt that I had with a small washer/nut plate (no idea where it came from, but it worked perfect for this exercise).


Here’s how it will sit in the truck, bridging over the battery


Here’s an underside view showing the controller mounted to the plate. Note how close the power leads are to the edge - that’s why the holes are offset closer to that edge. You can also see the “washer/nut plate” that will clamp the engine bay steel at the front.


And here is the finished product. It is locked in tight and secure!

 

More specific details on the winch power cut-off.
I originally planned on using a Blue Sea ML-RBS 7700 that used a momentary switch to either engage or disengage the switch, but I found that it 1. Required more complicated wiring and 2. Didn’t provide good visual feedback if the switch was engaged (without running a separate LED or using the oversized switch that came with it).

So, I opted instead to use the

$189 Blue Sea Systems 7713 ML-RBS Remote Battery Switch with Manual Control Auto-Release - 12V

ML-RBS (Remote Battery Switch) model 7713, which uses constant power (only a few mA) to hold the switch closed - thereby using a regular latching switch to power it. And it only requires one wire through the firewall (I already have the other wires through there, so this leaves me with a few future spares now). This switch simply has a power lead coming from the switch and a ground lead going direct to the ground bus, where the other has five wires total.




The front lug is connected to a 4/0 short (1 ft) cable direct to the battery, and the rear lug is connected to the switch controller with a 2ft 2AWG cable as mentioned in the post above. Inside the cab, I’ve got an AirOnBoard light blue “Winch Power” switch installed, which lights up the winch portion if the switch is powered on. I put this switch next to my start button when I relocated the Tow/Haul switch, so it is out of the way (not likely to accidentally hit) and helps me remember the truck has to be running to use the winch.

Switch (at night) with winch power switch off:


And with the winch power activated

 

Posted a few more notes to the end of my Switch Pros post.

 

@Patch999
Here’s a picture of the “poke” out front for the SSO bumper. From the black valence plastic, it’s about 4-1/2” to the front of the two recovery points (which stick out the most). I also want to say the front bumper itself is forward maybe about 1/2” as well (similar to the Coachbuilder shims).


Maybe I’ll put my little front mudflaps back on…

 

Thanks. I'll measure to see if my garage door would still work but I think it will be tight.

 

Thanks for all the detail. It might be several months, but I'm hoping to have the same project. Does it get in the way of your FRAC at all? I'm working out in my head how I'd mount the camera to the license plate frame.

 

I’ll post a picture of the view with my front camera as it sits now. I thought about moving it to the bumper, but after a week now I don’t see much advantage to moving it forward while also moving it lower with less horizon.

 

Here’s the view with the bumper.


I feel like the vantage point is still what I want and gives good context with the bumper

 

Updated this post with the final winch controller mount pictures and details.

 

Thank you. Yeah, no need to move that. Looks perfect.

 

Updated the winch power cut-off post with pictures of the switch.

 

Hey @RainMan_PNW, Great post on the build. That S8 looks like it fits in that opening perfectly.

 

I finally got my rear bumper in after months of waiting. I never thought of this but I searched and your post came up. What if I don't want to just cut the factory wire for the license plate light? Is there an adapter I can buy so I don't have to? Did you find one? I was looking for one that plugs into the factory adapter and just wires on the other side where I can strip and connect those to the 3rd party bumper.