Dobinsons Suspension Review

Yeah, came with the kit. It look like it was also for the 200 series LC as the instructions were for that platform.
Btw, your truck was my inspiration. Love your setup.

 

Apreciate the kind words. I think I might out source a Ready Lift SS 4" diff drop to get my angles better, I feel like I'm on borrowed time........

 

I’ll take a picture of my angles when I get home this weekend. The spacers/pucks were thick. I have an extra one that came with the kit you can have if you locate another one.

 

Looks great!!! Damn near exactly the same set-up I have, except I have the Toytec shackles set to 1" of extra lift. I agree the diff drop did help a bit, and I think I gained a bit under 3.5" up front with the 778, twin tubes, and shims. I also added a carrier bearing spacer. After a few thousand miles it's still great. And the leaf springs are so much better than OEM when it comes to handling some weight.

 

I thought the consensus on here was that diff drops do nothing on our trucks but make things worse.

 

Some people were spreading that info here in the past, while I've been saying the whole time that it's worth adding to reduce the CV angles when lifting so much.

 

Since the Pro was 2” over stock and didn’t use a diff drop, I didn’t. My Dobinsons netted 2.75 lift, so I didn’t add a diff drop since the cv angle isn’t very far off from where the Pro would be.
I would love a definitive, evidence base answer on this.

 

There have been many many posts on here about how a simple spacer type diff drop does not reduce CV angles on the Tundra and may actually serve to starve the diff of oil in some cases, due to the angle it places it in.

 

Here are some under carriage photos. Cv’s still have some angle. Time will tell if the diff drop helps.

 

Are those of you running the Dobinsons suspension using their front bump stop kit? Or a different type of front bump stops?

 

I bought CB extended bump stops but found it way too much for my truck. If you look at my photo of the front you see there isn’t much need for it.

 

Too much as in they were too tall?

 

Yes, too tall. Would restrict travel more than it needs to be. That said I’d sell my one if you’re interested.

 

What’s the formula for figuring out the height of bump stops needed after a lift? Both front and rear?

Factory bump height + lift height = new bump stop height?

 

CB says 3”-4” lift you should run it. That’s what my reasoning was to buy them. But by looking at it I wouldn’t have much travel if I install them.

 

Dobinsons now offer replacement greasable shackles for the 2007-2021 Tundra. They go with the PB59-1102K poly bush kit. They don't add any lift, just the ability to grease the bushings for the smoothest operation.

https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-toyota-tundra-greasable-shackle-kit-for-2007-2021/

And on the other end of the leaf springs, the fixed end, these greasable pins/bolts go in there:

https://exitoffroad.com/product/dob...it-for-toyota-tacoma-and-tundra-2005-to-2020/

 

Got some HD leafs on today and I think they’re going to work out great. Pretty tall but will settle in with the weight of my build out I think.

 

I have a 17 double cab rwd with the toylift 3" leveling kit front and 1" block in the back, everything else is stock. I have a small rub at full lock, I want to get a full suspension and due away with the spacers. What Dobison's should I go with?

 

Being a 2WD, you'll have to go with 1 step down of coils so that it doesn't overlift without the front axle in place. I'd suggest the 2.5" coils up front which will lift it 3", and in the back I sell a 1" add-a-leaf kit or a 2" full leaf spring replacement. Not sure if you want the rear height to go up or not.

The rubbing won't necessarily be cured by changing the lift. If it rubs at any position during the range of suspension movement, then you can either adjust the steering stops so it doesn't turn as much and doesn't rub wherever it's rubbing, or trim the contact point back.

You have your choice of twin tube or IMS. Since it's a 2WD, I'm betting it's just an on-road truck, so the twin tube would get you going without any issues. It is softer than the IMS due to the shock design and it uses low pressure gas, compared to high.

This is the page with an add-a-leaf rear option: https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-tundra-2-25-to-3-0-quick-ride-kit-for-2007-2020-4x4-v8/
This is the page with the full rear leaf pack option: https://exitoffroad.com/product/dob...toyota-tundra-2007-to-2020-double-cab-4x4-v8/

 

Thank you for the that, She is a daily driver, On road/camp ground truck. I tow a 7k 30' camper, what would it be best Twin tube or IMS? What is the difference between Twin tube and IMS?

 

I'd still just go with twin tube.

Twin tubes are fully sealed, non-serviceable, lower in cost, long lasting, and they ride very well.

IMS are high pressure monotube shocks, higher performance for more offroading and heavier vehicles, and they're also rebuildable. I only suggest these usually for people that are going offroad often and need higher performance to handle rougher stuff. It's like you wouldn't put mud terrains on your truck if you don't ever take it in the mud, unless you like to spend extra money and like the look of them. haha

 

There were also past issues with IMS system running very high, too much lift with extreme angles. Not sure if Dobinsons worked that out but details should be earlier in this long thread.

 

I added the hybrid tires, my camper is stored in an area that stays wet pretty frequent and I like the look, but I will do the Twin Tubes.. Thank you kindly for all the info and the links.

 

Yeah, they told us the wrong clip height to use on the IMS to start with, but that was realized after just a week or so.

 

10k mile update on my 778s and twin tubes. Stock leafs for now with a 2” block. No sways. Bud built 3/16 full skids and wkof sliders. (+/- 500pounds of armor)

the ride is far better than stock, does very well off-road. Measures out at 3” of lift upfront still. Very impressed by this setup. 120s are on the short list.

 

Dobinsons-inspired HydroFlask.

 

I put these on when I put the Ironman shocks on. Very pleased. $26 from Autozone. A single pair on the rear spot should be sufficient. Think I used M10x1.25x30mm bolts.

https://www.autozone.com/suspension...UrUh9e09xxXpryUdmvhoC9UgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I’ve got an issue, not necessarily a dobinsons issue, more of my leaf packs I think. Put on the dobinsons 2-3” front and rear shocks with coachbuilder 3” shackles 18k ago. I noticed this week that the driver side rear is 2” lower than passenger rear (24” vs 26” measured hub to fender). I don’t have excessive weight in the bed, simple tools and diamondback cover. Measurements taken at 1/2 tank of fuel (38 gallon). Tried to get a pic of the spring pack which seems to have a neutral or slight negative arch. 1st photo is passenger side, 2nd is driver side. I’ve read that tundras seem to have more of a low or neutral arch, but this seems excessive. FYI, front height at 24.5” both sides

any thoughts?

 

Shackles will put more stress on the springs if you carry a load or offroad. The springs have to bend farther before you hit the bumpstops.

 

EXTENDED shackles