What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

What's the allowable limit for windshield tint in TX? Here it's zero but I know some people who've gotten 5% done which is unnoticeable according to them from an inspection POV.

Significantly reduces glare from oncoming headlights I'm told as well.

 

wait, I didn't know you spoke Noahish!

 

Sthricthly sthpeaking Tython! Lithpietht man on thith earth!

 

Alright men, got rambunctious and might have myself in a bind. Doing the door actuators and got a little heavy handed. Maybe a lot heavy handed. Will my door handle still function with this clip broken:

 

It can, but there's a risk of it popping out unexpectedly if it is what I think it is.

Dorman sells a variety pack of "rescue me" door lock rod clips at the local auto parts store, assuming that's what I'm looking at. Dorman 75450 (pic below).

The actual part numbers may be in my tailgate refurb 'how to' thread. https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...gate-clip-repair-overhaul-beef-up-lube.94180/

 

Thanks @shifty` I will run grab some. Got the other card off and all apart while I waiting for answers. I could get the broken clip shown moved out of the way, but it won't give from the door handle. On this other side I'll give it more hell

 

One of the ones on my tailgate was a freaking PITA to pop off too. the latches on either side of the tailgate are such a bitch to get to, no room to maneuver, impossible to get leverage.

Best trick I can give you with these is to slide a slim flathead into the belly of the "U" where it clips onto the rod and pop outward, if you can easily get access.
If not, it means the tips of the U must be facing toward you, and a lot of times pressing the round edge of a 5¢ nickel into the tips of the U will spread and push it back.

I always hated doing speakers in doors on older vehicles, the clips always inevitably break. We had a bin full of replacement clips at the shop.

 

I was able to pry this mother off the rod, but couldn't pull the rod out of the handle after that. So just had to contort the entire assembly to get to the other side of the actuator to take the last screw off. In the process of moving it I'm pretty sure it turned back over the rod and the got snap a lapped! I have all those tailgate clips from Toyota and saved your thread to do it when I install the reverse camera

 

I went ahead and called it a day. Unplugged the battery and decided I needed to do some high level security with the door handle:

 

All was not lost, as a bus dropped off some help for the other door card:

 

Also, "installed" the backer rod I have had for a month while my daughter worked on the door:





We'll see if that helps with the dash rattle's

 

Damn that looks lifted surprised that is stock lift and no rubbing. I'll be running this exact setup then! I have a slight lift front and rear.

 

Up to 25% light transmission for the top 5”, but clear uv film is acceptable.

 

What about the rest of the windshield? 0%

 

Yea?, just says clear, no percentage.

 

The percentage is light transmission. So 0% would be painted black. 5% is limo tint, very dark. Most factory tint is 20-25% or so on the rear and little to no tint on the front.

 

Interesting. So you do think anyone would notice 95%?

 

I plan on getting the ceramic lumar air 90 or whatevs.

 

Let us know how that works out. If it cuts down headlight glare, I may become a customer.

 

I want it to cut down heat from the sun.

 

@KNABORES, it works for that. I have it on my onefiddy. You cannot tell it's tinted, many factory windshields come with a hue that looks similar

 

Finally got these extended brakes likes from Crown performance installed. Had them for a while and only reason I installed them was because the little small metal tube line going to caliper broke and leaked out most of the fluid. Anyone experience this with your lifted rigs?

 

Work has been crazy so I’ve been MIA for a bit.

Tundra is in with my brother getting long tubes and a full 3” exhaust put on. Also, after 6 months, the mishimoto radiator popped a leak. It isn’t horrible, we were able to make the 30mile drive to the shop. MM has a lifetime warranty, but radiators are back ordered 8-10 weeks, so now I need to decide if I’m going to park it for 2 months and drive the Ram every day, throw the stock radiator back in, or screw mishimoto and buy a new all aluminum rad.

what to do, what to do…

 

What UCAs are those? freedom offroad?

 

Yes sir! Freedom.

 

Make Mishimoto honor the warranty. Sell the replacement or put it back in. Looks like a lot of salt.

 

Do you like them? call me cheap but I'm having a hard time swallowing the price of SPC,JBA, etc

 

I can't speak for @KingSequioa007, but I have Freedom UCAs on my truck and they're not terrible. I'd like a little more caster out of them, but they don't bind or make any noise. Not sure what else I can ask at that price point.

 

You have the worst luck. Didn't your CVJ axle boot tear prematurely as well? This makes me wonder if the Mishimoto rads are worth the extra price.

 

I would love to find out what happened with this guy:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/freedom-off-road-uca-bent-my-spindles.99719/

Do you have the uni-ball type or the others? I live in Wyoming so I'd like to avoid uni-balls, as ive heard they arent great in these climates. as long as bent spindles are not the norm, ill probably go with freedom offroad. I also plan on welding in spindle gussets at the same time.