Crackhead resurrection

Yeah, it's pretty gnarly how much you're still working stuff out of the coolant system, the Liqui-moly coolant flush stuff may be advised for more flushing on coolant side - I've personally never used the stuff before, only the

$13 Prestone AS105 Total Cooling Syststem Cleaner for Radiator, Heater Core, and Hoses, 22 oz., 1 pack , (Packaging May vary)

Prestone AS105 stuff that's pretty mild, but works. The water you're showing above is about 10 shades darker brown than I'd prefer to see before swapping in proper coolant. I'm happy to see stuff is still coming up though, it's a good sign, it means progress hasn't stopped.

How much idling you think you had in it up to this point to get the color in the gallon jugs above? Just so you have a means to gauge?

 

I'm happy for any positive progress, or even lateral progress as long as I learn something. Below is the last drain on the V6 I did before adding zerex. 150 miles on that water. It didn't have anywhere near the level of gnar gnar this one does.


V8 1st drain.

So far, I haven't used any of my flush/cleaner products. Just been straight distilled water. Will add some of that blue devil stuff tomorrow since those jugs are in my way, and then can toss them!

 

Sorry for the long delay. Very busy day & night. If you're going to wrench on motors a mechanical gauge is an indispensable tool to have around. Post up your oil pressure results.

 

No worries! I'll snatch that one up along with a leak down test kit. Any other recommendations are welcome.

 

I'd recommend saving a small sample of each as you go so we can get a gratifying spectrum at the end of this!

I think in ChrisFix's flush it took him like 4 rounds to get to your V6 flush color from the current V8 color. By round 6 he was close to clear.

 

Well, I guess I need something better than tupperware, eh? Lol round 4 was where I was on the V6. Would have kept going to clear, but didn't trust the water on the interstate rolling to Knoxville. That wasn't a fun thought so I dumped some coolant in it, and burped.

Hopefully, I'll have enough time to get to clear, and then dl the heater core. Main concern being the engine right now.

Other news: Wheelers offroad brake lines have shipped! Parts are piling up for Toyota.

 

My apologies again @Tundra2, per the FSM for your MY the oil pressure at idle is to be 4.3 psi or more. @ 3,000 rpm it is to be between 43-85 psi.

 

HOLY POSTS BATMAN!

I'm loving my Eibach pro-trucks with OME 2885 coils. The Eibach rear shocks are nice because they're slightly longer than the 5100s, so they allow for a 2" rear lift, which is why I went for them.

double check, but it sure looks like I spy a pretty new looking 5100 already installed on your truck there. Looks like it's set on one of the highest settings, so that would explain the lumberjack ride quality.

 

Do Bilsteins have a date code to figure out how old that one is? I agree it's pretty new-ish looking.

 

Any reason to replace the four semi-circle plugs on the back of the Valve covers? Trying to plan into the next project. Seems like the FSM calls for reuse after cleaning the old ones. I ordered new ones for the V6, but haven't had the time to do the VCs...

 

Thinking of adding magnetic drain plugs to the oil pan. $30 seems high. Anyone got anything cheaper?

Flea-bay link

Transmission Pan sane thread pitch as oil pan?

 

Why not just get a rare earth magnet and stick on the head of the drain plug bolt? $1 solution. You could also use magnets to magnetize the stock bolt, but they make rare earth magnets so small these days, I can't help but wonder if it's bad to just slap one on the head of the bolt.

 

Drained about three gallons of less nasty water from the block. Both engine drains stopped, and then I cracked the bottom of the rad. I knew I still had water in it, so I crawled back under and fully removed both brass drain plugs. Very little fluid from the passengers side, and a torrent from the drivers side. Strange that it all but stopped from the actual drains. Slightly concerned.

Didn't take pics of the drain, but it's still nasty. Did take a shot of some boogerwelded pipes!


Also, found out why the exhaust leaks on the passengers side.


Also found that the power steering pump is rubbing on the lower radiator hose. Guess this engine really is moving because I knew for a fact that it wasn't rubbing when I put it on. May have it installed upside down... guess I'll order another one with my plugs from RA.

 

Gotta keep your hose trimmed.

 

I did trim it! Or the doctor did for me...

 

Ive got about 1/2”.

 

I had about a half inch when I put it on. Possible that the heat made it swell some I spose

 

Maybe twist the top of the hose a bit to tweak the middle of the hose forward?

 

Maybe take another 1" off the bottom of the hose.

 

Took the exhaust bolt from the post above to work to get a nut, and washer goodies. Had some free time so I cleaned it up using special T2 formulers





Light wipe down with very small amount of anti-sieze.

 

What would you charge me to clean all my nuts? And bolts?

 

You like the way I play with nuts, and bolts eh?

 

They look better when you get done with em.

i like the results i get with the ?phospor? Rust treatment. I havent tried adding any dye yet.

 

Just a little bit of scrubbing compound, elbow grease, and a stainless steel brush. Not sure you can buy this product as a consumer.

 

I do prefer to handbrush the n’s&b’s. I tell myself that im not rounding corners or edges.

 

Hand brushing is the key! If I were retired, or had the kind of time that PHM did, I'd be dangerous!

 

I may have missed it while we were on the island. Are you still waiting on parts or is the timing belt job done?

 

TB is done. Doing engine flushes in thus time slot. I'm not officially writing the TB as dine until I have toyota coolant in it.

 

speaking of nuts, did you ever find a home for that extra one ?

 

No, sure didn't.