What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

They do. You're looking at about $120/each to attempt it.

https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota__...pair-Kit-Front--Rear/69284428/0447960081.html

https://parts.toyota.com/p/63098247/477310C020.html

 

Looks right to me.

02 RC non-vvti 2uz
16100-59275

05 AC vvti 2uz
16100-09200


Both supercede on Toyotas parts site.
Part Number: 1610009201
Supersession(s): 16100-09201; 1610009200; 1610059275; 1610059276

 

According to McGeorge, it indeed does and 35 others.
$114

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-engine-water-pump-1610009201

 

Got my batt hold down bracket from @Coupe....solid workmanship.

FS: Battery Hold Down Bracket By Coupe | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Attempt? lol

One of those deals where you either need specialized tools or have mastered the 99 ways to use a screwdriver in ways it was never intended?

 

The rears were super easy to do, I’d like to assume the fronts wouldn’t be to bad. But at some point you need to decide what is worth more; your sanity or saving a few bucks

 

Is it something that takes more than an hour's time? Back or front?

 

I mean the bleeding takes more time than it does to do the rebuild. But that’s here with a crust free undercarriage, not sure how much fun it would be with a truck from the crust belt

 

The only challenge to rebuilding brake calipers is the cylinders themselves. If you have leaking seals, or mild sticking (from crud buildup or lack of fluid getting to the outside of the cylinder) it's easy enough to clean up, put the new seals and bleeders on and go. If the cylinder has the slightest pitting or corrosion, some mild honing is possible (with the right tools) but otherwise dealing with more corrosion is futile, turn em in and get new ones.

 

It’s probably no different than the periodic rust removal I need to perform with the bell cranks on the emergency brake every few years or so. Lots of sanding and lubing.

 

Word.

 

OK, if it's not too much abuse of the thread (ordering parts is what I'm doing today) would anyone be willing to double-check my cart? I'm not 100% sure on quantities, I'm assuming 8 spark plugs but what do I know, never changed a plug in my life. And no idea at all on valve cover gaskets. The tie rods were from the sheet provided by the dealer so I assume those parts are good, along with serp belt and tensioner.

I'm guessing there are likely several other items I should add, perhaps the spark plugs themselves? And maybe replace cables at the same time?

 

Is your timing belt new? It has to come off to change the water pump. Now is a good time to replace if it has some miles.

 

Yes, the timing belt was replaced last week by the dealer for $600 ish. They wanted another $600 for the water pump while doing the timing belt and another 400 on top of that for the belt tensioner which just seemed extreme so we're doing things the dumb way and taking it all apart again to do the pump, belt and tensioner since I needed to find someone to do the gaskets and tie rods (or attempt that myself but I am happy to farm this out since it's a decent chunk of work.)

Anything else to consider/do at the same time?

 

In Houston they just call em slabs

 

Yeah. That's a pretty big hit when its mostly already done.

Thermostat and that o-ring/gasket that occasionally fails under the intake, maybe?

 

@daveeasa what are you attempting to do with the tie rods? You have 2 different part #'s in your cart with vastly different prices.

Also, with everything else you have listed I'd consider doing your serp belt tensioner and idler pulley.

 

I had hopes that my cart included the proper tensioner? Is it not

$87 16620-0W101 Toyota Genuine V Ribbed Belt Tensioner Assembly

16620-0W101? Is there a separate part for the idler pulley? Did I screw up on the tensioner? It does say compatible with 2002 Tundy.

I was told inner and outer tie rods need replacement so those parts are from that work order, I'm definitely the least confident on those part numbers (any help appreciated).

I will try to hunt for those parts to see if I can find them, thanks for the suggestion.

 

I think this is the o-ring for the pipe to thermostat/inlet housing.
96761-24019

 

I hate searching for parts too so don't beat yourself up. Both your timing belt and your serpentine belt have a tensioner. I was just suggesting it might be a good time to replace the serp belt tensioner too since you are taking so much apart. I believe the part number you linked is for the serp belt, not the timing belt. This should be for the timing belt. https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-engine-timing-belt-tensioner-1354050030?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1lbmdpbmUmbD00Jm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT10b3lvdGEmbz10dW5kcmEmeT0yMDAyJnQ9c3I1JmU9NC03bC12OC1nYXM=


It might be easier to just call the dealer you are using and ask them to verify. I know when I use McGeorge they are extremely helpful.

 

Did they tell you the inner and outer tie rods are worn out or damaged? Usually if those items are worn out, you replace them in pairs unless you like doing the work twice over a couple years.

I take it since you’re ordering all the parts, you’ll be doing a lot of the work yourself or with someone helping.

If that’s the case, don’t forget the zip ties to replace the bands on the steering rack boots after you cut them. It’s either that or buy new bands and spend $20-$30 for the special band crimper to reattach.

 

Good chance they are very tight or wanting to fight ya when attempting to remove. Ratched it back and forth 1/8-1/4 turn when you first start. Eventually they’ll come on out.

As for comment about McGeorge, they have been very helpful whenever I’ve needed to call, asked questions in comment box when ordering and I know they will contact via email if they question something on order IF you supply VIN # when ordering.

 

In my experience here in the rust belt it's just easier to replace the whole caliper because usually the bleeder snaps off and the $100 is better spent on a reman.

 

Ah so buy two of each inner and outer and just do both sides? That makes sense.

 

Pretty sure SLAB is actually an acronym for Slow Low And Bangin', some places say Slow Loud And Bangin'.

I think this is a pretty decent brief breakdown on the origins of donk/box/bubble: http://www.liftabrand.com/About/Blog/entryid/12/donk-box-or-bubble

Everywhere is different though. What someone says in Chicago may cause a fight in Houston or Atlanta. You just never know ...

 

Yes, and when you peel back the boot you’ll see what I mean by using a skinny crescent wrench vs using a monkey wrench (pipe wrench) over the round part of the inner tie rod. Also don’t forget to count the number of turns prior to removing the outer tie rods so you can get them back as close as possible to the original toe setting before you get the front end realigned after you’re done.

 

I mean I'm not saying that OEM parts aren't great but I'd have an issue paying $166 for an inner tie rod when the Delco Pros are about $50.

 

x2, that why I got Moog ones myself.

 

Huh. Just looked it up out of curiousity. Granted this is from CNN, so who knows whether it's valid. I don't consider them kings of culture necessarily.

https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/houston-slab-cars-music/index.html

Seems like maybe there's some dispute about the etymology or meaning.

 

Probably important to mention TRW bought MOOG or vice-versa and they're the same company. Talking about which is better on internet forums is like religion and politics for some folks. For S&G while working on my '68 pickup, I bought an inner and outer of each and other than one small section that may've had a miniscule shape variation on the casted eye end, the parts were basically identical. Both are considered higher-end products.