Potentially snapped Timing Belt

I'm just repeating advice given to me when I thought I had a starter problem and was debating what to do.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rep...-what-else-while-in-there.79543/#post-2013432

 

Good question….for me it’s because I want one(tips hat to PHM for talking it up)….just like factory HU had to go to make way for car play and BU camera and new HALO head lights courtesy of @SouthPaw and shorties will be installed one day and…..because we can ?

 

Good choice. These trucks are million mile machines. In one year, you have already paid for it. Keep us posted on the results once it’s all said and done.

 

Just didn't know if anyone had a true failure of the starter beyond the contacts (technically a wear item). Does the new HD starter fix or add something to the truck? I have also done the HU swap with backup camera to add a new function to the truck and would love some of those projectors from @SouthPaw.

 

It's a cold weather starter, which basically means it's built for heavy duty use. Not sure physically how it's different, but I would assume heavier windings to allow for more torque to turn a cold engine.

 

Looks like I'm chiming in too late, but this was gonna be my suggestion. Buy a motor, then ask if anyone on the forum could help. I would even loan you my FSM if you needed it.

I'm glad you're getting it fixed though. Always better to keep a 1st gen on the road than letting it die and buying a newer gen.

 

Gotcha, so our northern brethren may benefit during ice-pocalypses and thundersnows.

 

This page (along with a few others on the internets) suggests that the CK All Weather Guard package included the larger battery and HD starter, i.e. Tundras with the All Weather pkg already have the HD starter.

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/toyota/tundra/2003/options/sr5-4x4-access-cab/sd-AAbLRfU

 

My starter sounds like it struggles a little more on the really cold mornings. I worries me a little bit, so if I goes out or I was in the manifold for any reason I'd replace it for peace of mind, but I'm OCD like that.

 

It could be a battery issue, or yeah, it could be the starter letting you know it wants to retire soon.
Doing a starter on the 2UZ, especially on the non-VVTi engines isn't horrible. It's still a big job, but it's better than installing headers... The VVTi engine has the secondary Air Pump that you have to work around, and a few more connectors on the manifold.
I did one on a 1UZ in a 1998 LS400 and that was BY FAR the worst starter I've ever changed. It makes my stomach hurt just thinking about that day...

 

Engineers will climb over a mountain of virgins to ‘F’ a mechanic.

 

Hot damn, I got a pretty good deal then according to the actual window sticker

Spoiler

tounge in cheek

 

And 4.10s for $275...

 

Don't forget that Valor Exhaust Tip....

 

$7k is a fair chunk of change but if ya like the truck and want to keep it... thumbs up!

For my 2000 A/C 4w/d SR5 recently paid for new serpentine and timing belt, water pump, radiator, valve cover gaskets, plugs, replaced fluids in transmission, transfer case and f/r differentials, and a handful a minor stuff. $2,600... and I only plan to keep the truck another year or two. So... dropping $7k on a Tundra that ya want to keep for maybe another 5-10 years ain't so much.

In your situation if I was in cheap-mode I'd consider pulling the heads first to inspect. If no piston damage was present I'd toss on a set of reconditioned heads and call it done.

Good luck sir.

 

He is not doing the work, pulling head is another 8hrs he have to pay.

 

All the talk about LS swaps, again he is in California. Not practical here unless you know a smog guy who plays dirty or you are registered in a city where smog isn't required.

 

Is there anyway at 280k I’d still be on the original belt. I have all types of service records on the carfax, but not a single one on the timing belt. Belt is original Toyota printed on it, not mitsuboshi, and it is in really bad condition. Major deep cracks, and it kinda stretches.

 

Have you checked the owners section on Toyota's website? If it was changed at a dealership, it might show-up there.

 

I wouldn’t drive it till it’s changed

 

I think it could definitely be possible. I wish I could find the old post but we had one member claim his Sequoia (same engine) had a ridiculous amount of miles on the original belt. It was over 300K.

 

@Diablo169 not the same post but check this one out.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/highest-mileage-1st-gen-thread.11039/page-7

 

Yeah it’s all torn apart right now. I need to replace the front main seal and the little water hoses.

 

@Diablo169 There will be a date stamp on the water pump if its the original Toyota pump. Mine was the original. It had a November 2000 date on it.

 

I suggest not being blacked out when you decide to tear your engine apart. Luckily I had my girlfriend with me to label bags.

Still can’t find the upper left long water pump bolt Cool thing about Toyota’s is you only need 90% of the hardware to make it functional.

 

The big update - FINALLY got the truck back today. Let me know what you think,,, bc there’s a story behind it.

Around early to mid July I called for an update. They said they weren’t huge fans of the engine and had a new one on the way. Not much more info other than it had less miles.

Fast forward to last week - I call and ask what the deal is and they said it’ll be ready in the next few days. I ask if I can pay over the phone since I’m not in the area and may have a friend pick it up for me instead. They said no because,,,, the shop changed ownership and the new owner does not accept payment over the phone. So that wasn’t great.

But not much of a choice on my part and I go to pick up the engine today. Same price and they said the engine looks and runs great. I ask for info or some sort of paperwork documenting/certifying/etc the engine I have in my truck now. He said he’s got nothing and that the old owner would be the one with that info. So now I’ve got no idea what’s in my truck and I tell him that’s pretty sketchy. He agrees. So we ended with him saying that the old owner will be in the shop tomorrow and will have him reach out to me with all that info.

The truck truly sounds and runs great so far, but I’m a bit sketched out. The old owner seemed like a good guy and came highly recommended, but I can’t help but wonder if he found a cheaper older engine, used that instead, and charged me the same.
Thoughts?

 

Check for the vin plate on the motor (I think they had them?) I can run the vin to get an idea at least

 

Welp, the good news is good. As for engine matching, isn't this something that should have been confirmed before thousands of dollars of parts and labor? Some in-person VIN matching, confirmation, etc.? I don't know what recourse there is if it's not what you expected. It's now a running truck. And suppose it's a different engine. There could be many reasons, but in the end, the answer will be that if you wanted to be this hands-on and detailed, the time was before or upon engine delivery, not after weeks of installation work. This is a headscrather. I think you're kinda stuck with what you've got. It would, I agree, be good to confirm what is in there. A VIN check on the engine, to see what history the engine had, perhaps a car-fax on the engine?

 

From my experience, they don't get any info with motors other than a tag that is zip tied to it saying what it came out of and what the mileage was. Don't expect much if anything.

Do your oil change early, like 500 miles. Do another around 1000-1500 miles. It will come out nasty but after that should be okay.

 

Agree with the two above posters. Run the VIN to get as much info on the prior truck as possible. And I would carefully "break in" this used engine, run 1 or 2 short oil change intervals with premium oils. Run premium oils and a new filter a short period, and change it, and repeat. Maybe send the oil in for an oil analysis for 50 bucks if you care to know the condition of the internals of the engine.

I'm also ASSUMING that when the engine was out, it was thoroughly updated with all new seals, gaskets, belts, tensioner, etc. since that would have been the smart/correct time to do it. So you should be set for another 7 years or 90k miles or thereabouts.