Hard shifts after pan drain and fill

No it don’t. It did quite bad on my previous Tacoma though. Every x amount of miles I would have to pull the yoke and grease the shaft.

 

I looked some into it. The Zip Kit will set you back $250. For about $850 you can send the valve body out and have it bored to remove any wear and remove any doubt.

 

Yep. I wanted John with itp to rebuild mine but he said that all the valve bodies he builds is performance. So they will shift harder than stock. And all I want is stock shifts.

 

I have heard of people saying that a pin in the carrier walks out and causes a clinking/tapping sound and then self destructs. From the description this doesn't sound the same as causing a driveshaft clunk. A long way down the line if I get bored enough in this quarantine if I'm successful at re-gearing the 2017 I'll tear the 07 third member down to inspect and possibly swap the 2017 carrier into it or Auburn pro carrier if I find any issues.

 

I had my trans memory cleared earlier today. Didn’t notice any difference on the 35 mile ride home. Idk what to do other than just drive the dang truck and not let my OCD continue to riddle me. It really don’t even matter, I’m sure I will be back in a Tacoma or 4runner sooner or later.

 

Just an update . It’s been about 6,000 miles and it feels the same. Maybe the “firm”shift was nothing to worry about after all

 

I have a little over 137K on my 2007 and after reading all this I don't think I want to mess with my fluid. I don't know the driving habits of the first owner but the 2nd owners were an older couple. Mine shifts really nice. The only issue it has it has a slight lag moving in reverse after it siits for more than a week.

 

Personally I think if you go ahead and drop the pan the first time you will be 100% okay. It really wasn’t that hard and the seal is reusable.

Last week I pulled a 6k trailer on a 250 mile round trip flawlessly. Tow mode on and in 4th worked great.

 

Just an update. It has been 11k miles since my valve body issues and have had no changes or issues. I have mostly done mostly in town driving and also some moderate heavy towing. Still going strong !

 

Thanks for the update! I found this thread late. Often times people don’t give updates.

I changed my fluid by flushing the system. I detached a cooler line and over filled the transmission, and repeated the process until I had clean fluid.

I switched to Amsoil fluid and noticed that the shifting is a little firm and also “bumps” occasionally on rolling acceleration, and also with deceleration.

After finding your thread, I’ll most likely do nothing. Although I’m a bit worried now because I didn’t drop the pan and do any cleaning.

I have 84,000 on my 2013 Crewmax and tow a 7000lb camper often.

Thanks again for sharing your experience!

 

Thanks Mathew. I wish I would have pulled my pan sooner as well, (the detergents in the new fluid may have dissolved any buildup),but that is the past. When I did pull the pan and filter I did not find anything of concern. I’m at 141k now and no changes. I’m still leaning towards a glazed clutch pack because my minor problem still occurs. As long as it is not slipping or any super hard shifts I am happy! My fluid still
Looks perfect even after a few long road trips pulling several sxs’s. I think next time I will go amsoil as well.

 

As long as you are sure your fluid level is correct I would do nothing unless more problems start to occur.

 

Yeah,
I jumped the pins on the OBDII port and made sure the truck was level. The crazy thing is the varying temperatures there are to check the level at. I feel like everyone has their own opinion as to what the temp range is and how to check it. It seems like its different for different year Tundras. I trusted the shift light indicator that was set from the factory most. Maybe its the wrong procedure.

 

I’m pretty sure mine comes on 99 degree. I verified that by pulling my jumper cable and plugging in my ultra gauge then the light came on.

 

That’s around the temp I checked it at.

 

https://youtu.be/t73jM6mT8sU
worth watching! At least watch the last 10 minutes.

 

Old thread, but did the 4h gear shift ever improve? I am now having a hard shift into 4th gear, almost like a slam into gear. I'm at 116,000 miles. I have done spill and fill 3 times since 60000 miles all with WS. I spilled and filled again with WS yesterday with no noticeable change. Of note, I also greased my zirks with Lucas Red and Tacky 2 weeks ago after getting new tires. I'm running 38psi in the new tires 275/65r20 Nitto Recon Grapplers. The 4th gear jarring started a few days ago.

 

I had a similar issue (post #11).

Last year, when I upgraded to the PML deep pan I decided to change the filter and flush the fluid while everything was taken apart.

I reluctantly went with the Valvoline Maxlife ATF (red jug) instead of Toyota WS fluid. I also added a bottle of LubeGard Platinum, Synthetic Protectant, and Shudder Fixx.

I was expecting the problem to become worse, honestly. But it’s been about 5,000 miles since, and I haven’t had a hard shift since

 

Appreciate the follow up. On the maxlife, was that just a spill and fill or did you completlely change out your fluid?

So..you added all three... This, this and this?

$13 Lubegard 60902 Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-60902-Automatic-Transmission-Protectant/dp/B0007ZAJRM?crid=1PP5LMHFNEGZK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GCq0eq34kvZbZ9YwaJC0Lb2jVDq8J1XGnfTUoEG3MIMjm3Qpg0tdVB7wMpNuKREqRsEqdjsb5-YmD7cXRTVc5KcjJueuMMQXPvVvZgYMLwq0TrjOHDAgNZzpm58Z02yluTqnMCUthnGJ17aAV3lwv-y8sNGireiMamIk910f4Ek7zZ_M82fp5Tv8Yv7t6sIaz4iYW50AOLmTQQB28IsfTdbzs9AMSAjnBOC0MefCPLiku98qFKzaVw83o-zxTZxmtHTLfpEw5r1NBM5c7Y_BbrueY2FbrSWDD17stad3VBw.LxQD7f7ym-ARAgc1jYAm9Bud1LtcJ84cDlXcggr0_XI&dib_tag=se&keywords=lubegard+synthetic+protectant+transmission&qid=1713375174&s=automotive&sprefix=lubegard+syntetic+protectant+transmission%2Cautomotive%2C65&sr=1-1&th=1

$16 Lubegard 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-63010-Platinum-Universal-Protectant/dp/B002MB57UI?crid=1PP5LMHFNEGZK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GCq0eq34kvZbZ9YwaJC0Lb2jVDq8J1XGnfTUoEG3MIMjm3Qpg0tdVB7wMpNuKREqRsEqdjsb5-YmD7cXRTVc5KcjJueuMMQXPvVvZgYMLwq0TrjOHDAgNZzpm58Z02yluTqnMCUthnGJ17aAV3lwv-y8sNGireiMamIk910f4Ek7zZ_M82fp5Tv8Yv7t6sIaz4iYW50AOLmTQQB28IsfTdbzs9AMSAjnBOC0MefCPLiku98qFKzaVw83o-zxTZxmtHTLfpEw5r1NBM5c7Y_BbrueY2FbrSWDD17stad3VBw.LxQD7f7ym-ARAgc1jYAm9Bud1LtcJ84cDlXcggr0_XI&dib_tag=se&keywords=lubegard+synthetic+protectant+transmission&qid=1713375251&s=automotive&sprefix=lubegard+syntetic+protectant+transmission%2Cautomotive%2C65&sr=1-2

$9 Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-19610-Tranny-Instant-Shudder/dp/B0002JMLQU?crid=1PP5LMHFNEGZK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GCq0eq34kvZbZ9YwaJC0Lb2jVDq8J1XGnfTUoEG3MIMjm3Qpg0tdVB7wMpNuKREqRsEqdjsb5-YmD7cXRTVc5KcjJueuMMQXPvVvZgYMLwq0TrjOHDAgNZzpm58Z02yluTqnMCUthnGJ17aAV3lwv-y8sNGireiMamIk910f4Ek7zZ_M82fp5Tv8Yv7t6sIaz4iYW50AOLmTQQB28IsfTdbzs9AMSAjnBOC0MefCPLiku98qFKzaVw83o-zxTZxmtHTLfpEw5r1NBM5c7Y_BbrueY2FbrSWDD17stad3VBw.LxQD7f7ym-ARAgc1jYAm9Bud1LtcJ84cDlXcggr0_XI&dib_tag=se&keywords=lubegard+synthetic+protectant+transmission&qid=1713375251&s=automotive&sprefix=lubegard+syntetic+protectant+transmission%2Cautomotive%2C65&sr=1-3&th=1

 

reread and answered my own question on the maxlife

 

I guess you could say it was a glorified spill and fill, since I didn’t hook it up to a machine and “flush” all the old out. I’d say I got at least 70% of it, though. Obviously whatever was in the pan, then about a quart out of the valve body when I pulled the filter off; I also disconnected the trans cooler lines at the front of the truck and blew a quart or two out using compressed air.

Don’t forget to pin your thermostat open if you’re trying to get out as much fluid as possible!!!

And yes, correct. 15oz bottle of the platinum, 10oz of the protectant, and 2oz of shudder fixx; to be exact.

 

So, i have 180k miles, I did a drain and fill. BUT HERES THE CATCH, my check plug is completely rotted out. #1 i forgot to open the thermostat plug. #2. I didnt pull the check plug bc i didnt want it to be stripped out and not be able to put it back in. #3 I ordered the filter and gasket for the filter and pan. BUT my bolts to the pan are so rotted out, Im sure 75 percent of them will snap. I was having some harddd cluncks from 5-6 gear. I have the tow package, and im running 35 inch tires. I did get an oil change and it has helped a lil. I put lubegard in and it did work, But im just wondering what i should do for the fluid level, check plug, and pan to access filter.

ALSO is runs good cold, but as soon as it gets warm, it does shift harder. Im thinking im low on fluid as the viscosity lessens as it the fluid reduces in volume due to increase in temperature.

 

If all the bolts are as rusted/seized as you’re saying they are, just go ahead and plan on replacing the pan and all the hardware, or at the very least have a bolt extractor + tap kit. Because you’re going to have to open the check valve one way or another to ensure proper fluid level, especially if you didn’t pin the thermostat. Just plan on the worst case scenario, and have the tools + parts to handle it. It’s not a huge job even if worse comes to worst.

I didn’t have a single bolt break or seize on my 2010 with 145k. But my 2020 with 50k that spent a year in the rust belt broke 3 of the pan bolts, even being gentle and applying PB blaster. I was able to extract 2, but one of them didn’t work out but 11/12 bolts was good enough for me and it doesn’t leak.

I knew I should have saved my OEM transmission pans, I would have gladly given them away for free instead of throwing them in the scrap pile.

And I thought fluid expanded as it heats? I could be wrong, but either way you definitely need to get the correct amount of fluid in there before something expensive happens.