What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

The HD version from General is supposed to provide 1 1/2 - 2 inches of lift. But there will not be improvements in the ride quality if you go this route, it would be much stiffer.

 

I'll get measurements for you in a few when I get home.

 

Agree with Festerw. Here is some help for you.

https://youtu.be/_Yy9-VLahbA

 

@FirstGenVol I am at 38 1/2 from ground to bottom of fender flare and 23 1/2 from center of hub to fender flare. 06 DC 4wd, no weight in the bed just a Backflip G2 folding tonneau (maybe 40 - 50 lbs).

 

The most I have towed. My tundra alone is well over 6000lbs. 50/50 split and when towing my aluminum trailer and RZR. I couldn’t even tell it was back there and forgot a few times. 4.88 gears and 35s makes it a breeze to drive.

I am running the prototype Archive Garage Overland Springs as I help brought them to life. They are also paired with AG shackle Flip Kit and extended shackles. Recently I added AG U Bolt Flip Kit with low profile bump stops.

 

If you end up selling the icon add a leafs let me know. I'd like to do a full leaf pack eventually, but after building my front end I think my old lady is going to kill me if I spend too much more now. That and when I have a spare $1000 I'd rather it go to buying my kid a four-wheeler. Gotta hook them when they're young!

 

Stock vs AG:

 

I'll likely be pulling the trigger around X-Mas (bonus time). I see you are in Utah, I could probably make you a deal on the whole leaf pack at that time.

 

Looks like I’ll be looking into these leads when the time comes!

 

It used to be in my early days that if one seriously upped the spring package for load, you would also up the axle shaft's size, in other words replace the axle with an axle that was larger in diameter to bear the increased load. Are you guys comfortable that the stock axle will bear the increase in load? Or are you only upgrading as a means to reduce general spring sag?

 

1st gen tundra has been out for almost 20 years now. Within that time. There probably have been tons of people who have overloaded the rear axle/springs riding on bumps and yet I haven’t heard of anyone snapping an axle housing or axle. I personal know my dads 2000 work tundra has been overloaded more than I can count and it has over 440000 miles with original engine/trans. Axle. Drivetrain.

 

That is most reassuring and, I guess, a testament to good metallurgy and engineering design. Around my neck of the woods and mountains, I seldom see Toyota pickups bearing overloads as they are typically being borne by full sized Ford, Dodge, Jeep and Chevy pickups, of which nearly everyone has one parked in their driveway. The Toyotas tend to be owned by a younger crowd and babied, until they hit the boonies where all former mild mannerisms are dropped in favor of rooting in the dirt, traversing the unfathomable, and ascending the impossible.

 

Well my Coastal Off-Road kit came in and is now in the hands of my friend and local TW member/vendor Trail Toys
They have an 05 tundra at the shop they can mock it up with. The timing couldn't have been better. In early or mid October that tundra is going under the knife hardcore. He's actually a member here as well.

 

Sounds good. Let me know.

 

post pics when its done. even though im having OEM style bumpers painted eventually plate bumpers will be coming

 

What with all you guys doing things to your burly rides, I have been messing with my cosmetic queen...

I added a matched set of blue steelhead/salmon fly decals to add a slight more accent to her overwhelming gray imagery. Does it add or detract? Oh, and I got my security system back up and running. This coming weekend I plan on further cleaning up the wheels and painting the inside surfaces which are filthy and slightly corroded. Going with silver paint and hopefully bringing more light into the interior to light up my calipers and drums.

[edit] Almost forgot, after spending hours at it...I attacked the face of my wheels with polishing compound and wire brushes attached to my drill...Amazon...

$27 ABN Auto Wire Brush 38-Piece Set – Stainless Steel, Brass, Nylon with Handle, Extension Bar, 1/4in Hex Drill Shank

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Auto-Wir...69552664&sprefix=wire+brushes,aps,271&sr=8-24

 

2nd gen Tacoma leather steering wheel swapped in my truck. They are 100% bolt on for those curious.

Untitled by Blake Nichols, on Flickr

 

That's really the bummer about aftermarket leaf springs. If you want flex you generally lose payload. If you want payload you generally lose flex. The expedition pack might be expensive but it's the best of both worlds, if that came out before I got Alcans I would have got them.

 

We have the same head unit.

 

for sure my dude

 

I've heard of people having their stock rear leaf packs re-arched. Could be an economical option to freshen the pack up and gain a smidge of lift.

 

She’s lookin wonderful

 

Pioneer AVH-2330NEX?

I've been super pleased with it. Before now I've always used Kenwood units.

 

@empty_lord ...I hate being late to the party, even more so when I bear no gift, but did you have the frame checked for twist (assuming this is the rollover special)? I know of others, myself included, that have rebuilt a rollover only to find out later that the vehicle had a twisted frame. Mine showed as a truck that "wandered", making driving an almost constant effort to track straight (a condition completely lost on me due to the excitement of the acquisition and rebuilding process). I've since heard other tales of alignment issues that can not be corrected, one corner of the bed higher than the other by several inches (how do you miss that?), door and body panel "reveal" that is askew (the gaps between panels or door not running parallel, widening from one end to the other), and doors/windows that stick or catch when opening and/or closing.
As it is, your rig is looking good with the body showing straight and the paint deep. Wishing you the best with your project...

 

The frame had a slight curl at the end. It’s been pulled straight and true (I got lucky, we had a frame waiting for it’s new truck sitting at the dealer I used as a reference). She drives straight A’s can be and the alignment numbers are well within spec (but the lower left control arm is bent, that’s the next part I’ll be putting on). Body panel alignment is all good to. The bottom of the drivers door isn’t a perfect fit, but everything else is. Fixing the rocker to make the back bottom of the door perfect is extensive so I’ve decided to just live with that little minor issue

Before putting any money into it I had it on the alignment rack. So I’m pretty sure she’ll be fine.

 

Did my plugs and PCV valve today. Looks like it had Iridiums in it but I haven't a clue how many miles are on them(only picked this truck up a couple months ago).

I put the "cheapies" back in.
Glad I did the job though as one plug was not even fully hand tight and the coil tube was full of discoloration and carbon... I thought I had bad threads but got lucky as it just wasn't tightened correctly during previous job.

 

Ohh really? I will have to look into this as long as I can get it to match whatever color I have now. Fawn, sand, tan? No idea what my interior is

 

Ordered SS brake line, front and rear. I like Wheeler's but their shipping prices are astronomical.

 

I don't know the.model name because I had an AVH4000NEX but I blew the amp so I made a deal on a comparable floor model Pioneer and it looks just like yours. My 4000 had more bottons and settings though

I been really frustrated when i go to press the left tuning button on the screen and I accidentally hit something that re-tunes all my saved stations like wtf. I don't have the manual for either model since they were both basically used

 

One thing I have found the web to be ideal for and that is getting your hands on digital copies of appliance manuals. I suspect if you were to google the model name and number you might very well find such a copy.