What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Kimosabe,

You state a viable idea but the Chinese suck at building Japanese electronics, that's why I always buy an OEM rebuild from Honda or Toyota, not looking for another hobby and don't enjoy being stranded and replacing alternators every year. The OEM rebuilds last at least 5 years of trouble free operation in my experience. OEM companies have access to Denso or Hitachi electronic internals, If you try to buy these parts, they charge you more than a brand new alternator from the dealer! So nobody but the original car manufacturer can do rebuilds right and at a reasonable cost IMO

Stephen

 

Denso is in the LA area and does their alternator rebuilds there. You can buy their rebuilt here.
https://www.densoproducts.com/denso-210-1065-remanufactured-alternator

Or for $10 less before you return the core, you can get it from Rock Auto. Rock Auto also doesn't say anything about the core being the same brand as the replacement.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...LtSWw4esiwP6h2i7bPFNr9y/2dHi/r//5I/kRUxdMN3I=

 

Finally got those O2 sensors done and installed. Not much thread grip on the drivers side as compared to the passenger side. My torque wrench isn’t going to fit in there so I snugged them tight with an 18” flex head ratchet using a deep

$6 O2 socket , 7/8" (22mm) with 3/8" Drive, Universal Fit for Vehicle Oxygen Sensor Removal

O2 socket.

 

Upshot Knothole,

Thanks, looks like Rock Auto is my solution! Just ordered the 100amp V8 4.7version of alternator, should bolt right in, correct?

Stephen

 

I’d dig deeper. Do you have the 70a or 80a because a taco forum mentioned a different shaft diameter so a pulley swap wouldnt work.



for some reason i thought the 5vz alternator bolted to the side of the block, but that was incorrect, which made me dig into the rabbit hole a bit.

 

Not much available for upgraded the alternator for the 5vz

 

NO!

 

john deere and cadillac according to the taco forum & expedition portal.

 

Nice! In what ways was it worth it? Less slop or better turn radius?

 

Do they make the poly bushings in black? My rubber OEM bushings are always getting destroyed from steering fluid leaking all over them

 

Less slop, less travel and a its not spongy on turns anymore.

@Jack McCarthy I only saw them in red when I ordered from total chaos.

 

The Black Mamba,

I see that link;

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/products...00-3-4l-v6-5vz-fe?_pos=9&_sid=84a144888&_ss=r
180 Amp HP High Output Alternator (Toyota Tundra 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE)
Regular price$639.95

Not ready to spend $600+ but the Chinese writing on the alternator on my truck is gone, maybe my Vin could tell me what the original alt was, I'm creative on making this work if it's possible but I'm not at home and in Hilton Head right now. The idea is to vector the part to my return, my main concern is the wiring connectors and physical mounting measurements. Will see what I have when I get back to San Diego and compare both to each other side by side

Stephen

 

Oh yea, Ive bought those from Total Wine too! So cheap and not bad. I definitely stock up on some of those, some old Milwaukees and some better stuff when I go camping

Also I dont know what it is about the Old Milwaukee NAs but they are tasty! haha

 

Tackled the fipg thermostat operation....learned some new shit about antifreeze I thought some may wanna know. Realized I'm not a fuckin chemist and maybe half of antifreeze manufacturers may not be either lol...
https://www.tundras.com/threads/thermostat-housing-coolant-leak.127578/#post-4030981

 

Oh, I didn't realize you had a V6. I doubt the V8 alternator will fit. Here's the 80 amp Denso reman for the v6.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...XysAfUA5lHVqHSHwM8+KutaE/VebnYkKyKghWDATnsoM=

 

That's what I'm running

 

That’s my bad. I wasn’t specific in my prior post, but I was referring to a used OEM or denso alternator. I completely agree about aftermarket options not being of the same or even close quality.

 

My headlight relays seem to be on the fritz. These are part of the big wire harness I bought to upgrade the power delivery to the headlights, not the factory one. I've got fogs, but no head lights. Wacking the relay gives a blink of light, and that's it. I think it's not getting trigger power. Will test tomorrow.

 

Throw a hair dryer on your super relay thing under the dash. You did just wash the truck…

when i burnt mine, i had fogs but no headlights until i plugged in the drl, and that killed the fogs.

unrelated, i know, but aint the random nonsense what makes forums better than an ai that can read forums?

and what is this harness you speak of?

 

Yes, Energy Suspension has em in red or black and a few bucks cheaper than other brands.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/8.10104

 

You have that cheap Amazon special headlight harness upgrade deal right? I have the same if that's what you have

 

yup

 

I had considered removing it all together since going to the projector LEDs from the 100watt bulbs but it hadn't given me any issues yet

 

Same. I’ll diagnose today. Might plug the LED projectors into the factory wiring again.

 

Kimosabe,

Yeah aftermarket alternators don't last, the junk they call an alternator is at best an imitation of the OEM part!

Stephen

 

I don't know what that is. I was gonna ask if y'all knew what it was. My amp wire runs over to the drivers side fender.

 

Update: Looks like I got pretty lucky, I cleared the code and changed out the old original gas cap with w/new oem a couple weeks back--CEL has not come back on since.

 

I saw that too, looked it up, it's a 30 amper!

Pull it and find out

 

A new gas cap fixed mine earlier this year too.

 

Here's a BroHon penny pincher hack. Sand the spout pull the cap O-ring, condition it with some lube/grease/wd40, flip it.