Thermostat housing coolant leak

Cleaning my 04 DC this afternoon and spotted this gem. Looks dry at the moment and coolant overflow is still at the full mark.

For the repair it looks like i need a new o-ring (96761-35035) and some sort of gasket maker for the square flange.
08826-00100 = $$$$ green stripped tube

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103 = $20 a tube and I’ve read it’s been a suitable replacement.

I’m leaning towards using the 103 tube, anybody done the same?

 

I did this repair before.
I went with the same part number. I would recommend replacing your thermostat while you have the coolant out. Mine recently went out causing a grenade of problems

Part Number
96761-35035
Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring $4.11

 

I would just add, courtesy this exact leak and a linkback to more info lives in this informational thread that covers many 1st Gen quirks and such: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It's in the 2nd reply of the thread, inside the coolant leaks bullet point. Search the page for the hyphenated phrase "t-stat" and click the link that follows that word. Common enough leak that at least half a dozen people here have found it. Hell, there was another guy with what is likely the same leak posting during the weekend.

 

Super easy fix, took me 20 minutes I just used permatex gasket maker and a new oring. Also changed the Thermostat and gasket while I was in there!

 

Which gasket maker did you use?

 

I don't remember I just know it was orange. I have use

$21 Toyota Genuine Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103 a ton on other things and it works perfect

 

Is this the spot where rtv or gasket maker is used? Not exactly at the housing with the o-ring?
Should I be concerned that there isn't much in the overflow? Radiator is steady.at the point in the picture with no visible leaks on the ground just the dried coolant directly below the intake tube

 

Yes. Your radiator will stay full until the overflow reservoir is empty due to siphoning and then it will decrease. I just did mine and used Aisin FIPG from Rock Auto and Toyota o-rings (2) and crossover gaskets (4).

 

Just now tracking parts down. Am I missing something? From what I can tell it's just 2 crossover gaskets and 2 o-rings. Is that right? Part # 16355a

 

Just an note - verify part numbers. Only because I'm seeing a 2000 Tundra owner talking to a 2006 Tundra owner here...

 

Ha. I'm just stumbling through the f'n diagrams on parts look up and the website. Between going damn near cross-eyed following all their crayon drawings and the FSM showing 2 for each 1uz and 2uz I thought I'd double check. I have a feeling the person (my mechanic friend) that did the timing belt used the wrong fipg. That Toyota shit in the green tube is totally outta bounds on price. I went with the stuff mentioned above. Hopefully Toyota just has the o-rings in stock so I can just go pick them up tomorrow.

 

Also - FIPG for Water Pump is PN 08826-00100 which is Seal Packing 1282B and sells for $83. I used AISIN AB1207B1 (Black) which sells for $14 at Rock Auto

 

I bet the Aisin shit is probably the same stuff with a different tube.

 

I read through a long version of it's what they use unless it's warranty work then they use the good stuff. I think that was on ih8mud...
Another question: is there a handy dandy tool that helps with burping the system after refilling coolant so it eliminates the likelihood of hot spots or air pockets? Something like the motiv brake tool

 

People have posted a funnel that attaches to the radiator to act as a reservoir for burping the system.

Something like this. This is just the first one that came up, I make no claims that it's good or it fits.

$23 EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE

 

Finally found time to do this. Pretty simple actually, the hardest part next to cleaning off the old fipg (AB1207B1) is finding the correct way to apply it. Aisin install video specifically says not to get it in the groove but apply on the outer edge of groove.
I had 2 hiccups, forgot to attach the small tube on the right before putting housing into place so I got to redo everything this morning, clean fipg off, fight tension clamps in small spaces etc. the other thing when going to drain the block drains via tube and 10mm brass bleeder, the bleeder nut turned fine but no antifreeze would come down the tube but it started to come out of the little center hole and from around the threads of nut. If fear of wearing coolant and making a huge mess I just decided to drain the radiator via petcock.

Also discovered in the rabbit hole of "the correct/compatible non-oem coolant to Toyota sllc" that zerex Asian pictured is technically not quite compatible due to having nitrates. I opted for napa or red because it fits all of the guidelines in the owners manual better from my understanding. Now I just need to wait till either late tonight to fill and bleed or tomorrow to give the gasket time for best results. Read about too many failures due to not waiting long enough.





https://youtu.be/9X70eYIJZ08?si=HkMhjFnuqBzlzbp6