Is it worth it?(long read)

No, more of a long winded intro, and my first repair. I've done more since this one.

 

Also,

 

Saving this to my personal meme folder.

Thank you for this.

 

Just in case you need another:

 

Like a walk down memory lane here, when we all wondered who is this dude with valve covers in the washer?

 

Holy hell, it's been 2 years today. Damn.

 

I'm needing some help with this. Hoping you are still active? I'm wondering where you found a spot to connect the knock sensor harness to a quick connect? I had to solder mine in but still getting a code.

01 V8 Knock sensor wiring | Toyota Tundra Forum

 

How many years now? Holy zombie thread.

Dude, he literally posted in your other thread Why'd you need to resurrect this 5 year old corpse?

 

Still active? Sheeeet, I'm part of the scenery at this point. I didn't find anything for a harness, even on the backside of the motor. I chopped that connector off and just spliced it in, then taped the whole thing up. IIRC, you said you got some non OEM knock sensors? Any electrical sensor needs to be Denso, Hitachi, or Bosch.

 

Damn dude, It'll be 7 in a few weeks. Time flies....

 

Would it not code for each bank if that was the case?

 

Are you saying the fix of the knocksensors helped you shifting? my trucks doing the same thing and i have both sensors out so just wondering

 

I’d keep it as long as body and frame are in good shape.

But its kind of right in line with many of vehicles I’ve had over years as they were either just bodies i acquired, or vehicles with straight bodies needing seats transmissions, engines etc for cheap, and I’d slowly fix them up.

 

Once a knock sensor code is set in your ECU, your truck will immediately go into "limp mode" when the check engine light kicks on. While you're in limp mode, the truck will run like ass (no power), you can't shift above a certain gear (I think 3rd), and can't get your RPM above a certain level (I believe 2k RPM).

If you currently have a knock sensor code set, this would absolutely cause the shift-limiting and rpm-limiting problems I just mentioned, and they won't go away until you either (A) clear the code with a reader, or (B) fix the problem so the code clears automatically. If you opt for (A), the code will come right back again when the ECU detects the problem, so fixing the issue - which is typically the wiring being chewed/damaged, not a knock sensor failure - you'll be struggling with driving your truck.

 

It was shifting pretty rough but got better after the fix. You'd know if your knock sensors or wiring were bad though. You probably just need a fluid swap.

If this is for me, I've already put about $12k back into the truck since this post. He runs better than ever.