What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

18oz is waaaaayyyyyyy too much to add to a system that is somewhat working.


Take it to a shop that can evacuate and properly charge your A/C.

 

Does anyone know what these clips are called that hold down this rubber splash shield in front of the UCA? I don’t know how to drill down to this area in the Toyota auto parts site.

 

Not sure what the youtube video told you, but AC systems are filled by weight, not by system pressure. Proper way to address low refrigerant concerns is with a full gauge set to understand the resting, high side and low side pressures. A draw down to recover old refrigerant, vacuum to remove any moisture with leak check, and refill by weight is the way. Also only supposed to have a certain amount of oil, and those cans usually add oil too. But yeah, I've popped a can on a car before when it's hot and the system underperforms. Don't know if I've had to add a full can to a system that was already blowing cold.

https://youtu.be/Pdq8JAlct6s?si=Pv-NRBaVY7COTPCB

 

The T5 LEDs from a noname Amazon LED kit last less than a year installed into my center dash including fan speed and temp. Ridiculousness. My Lasfit LEDs from a 3 bulb rear brake light kit lasted only 6 months with all of them failing within a couple weeks of each other. I replaced all of the third center brake light LEDs with Sylvania but apparently Sylvania is not making T5s .
Installing Auxito T5 LEDs today (4xT5 - $10). We'll see how long these last.

 

The P and D indicator lights haven't worked on my truck in many years. I replaced the cargo light bulbs a few years ago with whatever standard bulbs. Other than that, I haven't had many issues with cab lights. The seat belt light has been endlessly flashing for nearly 300k miles. Impressive!

 

You can swap the L and D bulbs if you want you know.

 

Thanks for sharing the video. It's funny you referenced ChrisFix, because I did it based on another one of his videos.

 

Quick 2300 mile 3 day trip to Key West and back....with the #600 springs and no sway bar. Definitely squishy with the bumper and winch. Threw in the #700 Eibach springs in today. Rides night and day better. Gave the coilovers a quick bath in the solvent tank. Will let the springs settle a few days then tweak if needed and get re-aligned. Didn't notice the spring compressor was tweaked a bit. Made it fun sitting in front of it popping off the c clip at the bottom... Sitting at 21 3/4 in the front... 38/40 psi.
Maintenance day tomorrow for the CO hunting trip. I've passed a year of ownership and put right around 50k miles on her...

 

I'm 90% sure it's this part (9008046327).
I've always had a hard time with the parts site diagrams. I'm a fan of Partsouq.
https://partsouq.com/
They have great diagrams and I've bought parts from them and been really happy. You have to be careful because sometimes the small parts can be three times as much as another site or they may not carry certain parts. But then sometimes they are cheaper than other sites even after adding the shipping.

I just looked because your post reminded me that my spash aprons are torn, but they don't carry those.

 

Here you go - it's the red boxed thing here. I replaced all mine during a sale, the rubber aprons (that were beef jerky for me), and the clips, which mostly broke while removing.

Direct link: 90467-10186

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Be sure to either wrap a layer of tape around, or heatshrink around, that wire, if you crimp that OEM clamp down on it to hold the wire.

 

Once I have everything finished and tested I'll protect them and crimp them. Had to take a break from the stereo to install a tailgate camera and license plate light cut out harness. Thanks @daveeasa

 

Race truck or meth addict? Figured if I’m this far into my stereo install I might as well replace my D. Was also going to replace the condom, but the old one is still good and didn’t want to come out.



Does anyone know how to get this black plastic trim piece out? Replacing the cigarette lighter with a USB port for the stereo.

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Yours looks great (bushing).

 

I did the same. I believe that there are metal tabs that can be squeezed to get that cig lighter cylinder to pop out. I definitely had to pull and push and almost break it to get it out. I still have that piece and could take a few photos tomorrow in the garage.

I left that black trim corner piece off when installing the headunit USB ports. One thing I wish I had done was add some white vinyl tape to keep the USB port from slowly loosening up.

To clarify, the black trim triangle corner piece is only held in by the cig lighter cylinder. Once removed, the trim will fall down.

 

That black plastic trim piece didn't survive the removal process of the cigarette lighter. And after wasting way too much time troubleshooting the combo stereo usb port and usb power port I was trying to install there, I finally tested it and it's dead. I'll see if I can find the part number for that trim piece and replace it at some point, but the USB port I'm going to put there hides the hole pretty well.

 

55477-0C010 BEZEL, CIGAR LIGHTER HOLE

 

I'm just making sure on which one of these on the backup light is the positive.
Red or white/black stripe.
Trying to get the backup camera handle wired up and then start on the rear view mirror screen install.

Edit: nevermind. I figured it out. It's the red one.

 

Sweet, and only a $14 mistake tearing that thing apart.

 

Some new shoes. A lot more work destined in the coming weeks.

 

Purchased a low cost TPMS System from Amazon today. Took 5 minutes to install this afternoon. Seems to work well. For the price, hard to beat.

 

Thos epressures are about 3-4lb higher than I'd expect.

If it's reading off aftermarket sensors, and you've got the TPMS light on in the dash, some OBDII readers will connect directly to the TPMS ECU and erase the codes, making the light go off. You can also ground one of the TPMS wires, but that's a bit of a hack I'd never suggest doing when there's a cut-free way to handle the issue.

 

Thanks for suggestion regarding some OBDII readers possibly erasing codes to make the light go off. I’ll look into that - as my light is on. The pressures shown in photo are after truck had been driven approximately 20 miles. I could see the pressure readings rise as the temperatures increased. I had checked my tire pressures, with gauge, prior to installing the new sensors. My gauge readings were at 36 psi. Initial readings with sensors was 38 psi (prior to driving with sensors). While not identical readings, they were pretty close.

 

I posted fairly good details on how to do exactly that, over here. You'll need to expand the quoted text on that post to see the content, it's one example of how to do it. It's also important to note that, if anyone ever chooses to reset the TPMS ECU (using the reset button, see the owner's manual), the codes will potentially come back again, and need to be deleted.

Understand, there are three main pieces to the TPMS system. You have the TPMS ECU that stores the wifi addresses/Identities of each of the five sensors (yes, five, your spare tire likely has one too), although the 5th ID is optional to program in. You have the antenna, which IIRC is mounted up under the headliner. Then you have each sensor at each tire.

The light system itself is dumb:

• Solid light means one or more tires is reporting lower than the PSI recorded during the last system reset - and the system reset button is under the dash, below the steering wheel/ignition, the process is in your owner's manual. If all four tires measure out correct PSI, it's likely the spare tire causing your issue.
• Flashing light means "comm fail", i.e. the TPMS ECU is unable to identify/"hear" the TPMS broadcast from one or more sensors, or something else collosal failed, like the connection between the ECU and antenna died, which I've never seen before, but I guess it could happen?

More often than not, if the light is flashing it means one of three things:

1. One or more of the sensors is dead; the batteries to give up the ghost on OEM sensors after 15-20yrs, or as little as 3-5 years on aftermarket sensors.
2. Someone has programmed in the wrong sensor IDs to the TPMS ECU or has swapped the wheels, and the sensors in the new wheels won't naturally match the IDs programmed into the TPMS ECU for the old wheels.
3. Someone failed to RTFM ("Read The Fucking Manual"), failed to reset the TPMS ECU after programming new sensors in, or they failed to immediately go drive the truck after resettings when they installed/programmed new sensors in. After following the reset procedure in the manual, you MUST go on a drive for 5-10 miles to allow the TPMS ECU to "hear" all the sensors are checking in, and clear that baseline test, if you don't reset and/or don't drive after the reset process, chances are that light will start flashing again.

Reputable shops have a reader with a donut that slides over the sensor to engage it, and it will scan the TPMS sensor and detect (A) if the sensor is actually living/dead, and (B) what its ID is. Some of these readers are able to take a scan of all IDs, then plug into the OBDII port under the dash, and write the IDs into your TPMS ECU, which will resolve the codes.

Every sensor has its unique ID printed both on the box, and on the sensor. Also, if you need to exchange your sensors out for new ones (age/battery death), shops can literally "clone" the ID of any sensor and write that ID onto the replacement sensor to avoid the pain of programming. But some are too stupid/junior to know this is possible, I guess, or they just replace and reprogram, and don't know a reset of TPMS system is mandatory (nor how to do it right).

The big thing to figure out here is:

• Is the light solid or flashing?
• If solid, air up all FIVE of your tires, remember, the spare may have a sensor (usually does in the 2005/2006, IME).
• If flashing, you can either clear the codes out if you have a reader, or use the info above to figure out your next step: Do you scan for dead sensors, do you replace them all with known-compatible ones that'll last another 15+ years, do you simply TRY the reset process and go drive around for 5-10 minutes to see if the light goes away because maybe someone didn't know any better and failed to do it at the last change? I'd always start with that last option first, unless you know 100% it's one of the other problems.

This is one of those cases where you really DO NOT want to use any sensors except Denso brand. There is a Continental brand sensor I got to communicate correctly with our 1st gen ECU, but a lot of the cheaper, or generic sensors, have caused issues and persistent flashing lights after the fact, even when the shop and/or manufacturer swears they're compatible.

Anyway, I type really f'n fast, and I've been wanting to type all this out in a better, clearer fashion to link it from our 1st-gen-mega-community-info-thread, so ... lucky you

Hope the info helps!

 

Edit: wife did upload the pics (about 30 minutes after I posted this). See below.

Today we pulled the 2-axle and did two yards (4 total including neighbor and our own). Tundra did fine as always. Went into 4WD Hi without issue, came out with the big "thunk." Doesn't always make the thunk and we don't always have to be moving to get it to come out. Anyway....

Big mow day planned for tomorrow....7 yards I think. I'll try for more pics.

OH! Almost forgot. Strong smell of gasoline just as I got home....I thought "Oh geeze, guess I have a busted fuel line" but no, I had forgotten to close up the vents on the fuel cans in the truck bed.....spilled a surprising amount of gasoline out that small vent hole (1 gallon!).

Friday's mow pics:

This client lives pretty far out in the boondocks. Very steep and curvy hill so I've begun to use "Shift L" going down there and coming back up. The driveway is a loop with two outlets to the main road. On the exit, the trees are so thick and curve so sharp, we can't see traffic.....we pull up to the road, roll down the windows, and listen.






Drive out of there. Hard to see how steep this hill is but it's steep.



The road behind...

 

Hello, I just got back from a road trip up north and before I left, I wired up a Prado 150 steering wheel to my 2001. It's been working seamlessly with the 86 radio.

 

Yeah if I'm not doing anything this weekend I may rotate the tires and try to put all the nuts and bolts on the suspension to factory torque specs

 

Now those are some cool mods!

 

You can't post up some pics of cool shit and not go into more details. I need details so I can decide if I can do this shit

 

MOWMAN

Love the plate