No throttle response working in remote Alaska, limited tools no shop available.

Here's the story of it. I'm helping a friend in remote Alaska try to get his 2005 tundra 4.7 back up and running. The car starts and idles fine, no cel no miss or stumble. But when you push the gas pedal the engine picks up maybe 100rpm but no more. It will shift into gear (auto tranny) and move but just at idle. I pulled off the throttle plate put 12volts to the motor and the electric motor moves just fine. Confirmed power to and from the throttle control fuses, checked the junction box by the drivers side kick panel no obvious corrosion. Ended up replacing the whole throttle plate, and still the same problem. The only thing I can think is ecu? Any one have any other ideas. Another note that may be connected, when you shift into gear it is a hard shift, idle didn't seam high when I was looking at it though.

 

Hmmm, is it green?

I have a friend in alaska, bought a tundra with a similar problem, did a bunch of stuff, couldn't fix it, sold it as is. I wonder if it's this truck.

 

Got a good scanner that will read the dbw pedal position sensor (part of the gas pedal, it's all drive by wire/electronic)?

Do they have a pedal commander installed that failed?

 

that was going to be a question that I had as well; very similar to the symptoms of my truck until I removed the PC.
What other things would cause this year of tundras to go into limp mode?

 

Timing belt slipping causing the timing to be off? That I think would cause it to go into limp mode. But I'm just spit balling. I have no idea really.

 

Have you tested the throttle pedal itself?

 

Secondary air pump failure?

 

Has no one recommended the fuel filter yet?

Don't mind me

 

What about the small fuse for the electronic throttle body/EFI. I was once jumping off a stranger and one of us accidentally reversed the cables for a brief instant. It was enough to blow that fuse. The Tundra would start, go into gear, and drive - but wouldn't go past idle speed.

 

I believe it was the 10A ETCS fuse that was blown...but don't hold me to it. In the 2004 version, there are 4 spare fuses in the engine bay, one is a 10A. I know your fuse layout is different with the SAIS and VVTi...but take a look in the pics below.

 

Before anything else, what we tell everyone on here, loosen the timing cover on whichever side is easier to get to, and inspect the timing belt. Doesn't matter the number of miles. Check it if you have the V8. It won't run without the timing belt, but if that belt snaps, engine is dead. I doubt timing is the issue if the truck idles normally.

First question we'd usually ask people is, "Is there a check engine light, and even if there isn't, have you scanned for codes?"

My first inclination is to tell you, check for rodents, or tell us if there's any evidence of rodents in the airbox, if there's any fluff or garbage on the MAF wires.

My first advice to you is to check for popped fuses, in the engine bay, and in the dash, then attempt to perform throttle re-learn. The process is described here, but read the entire (very short) thread before performing the process: https://www.tundras.com/threads/throttle-body-cleaning-and-relearning-psa-how-to.121328/

 

Fuck that fuel filter.

 

There it is

 

Sorry for the delay off in the NW territories just got some internets. Fuses all checked out good. Fuel filter I could understand if it was limited throttle response, but floored and no change beyond idle would seem to point more towards throttle plate in my thinking. Trying to use the tools I had on hand we took off the air intake tubing to try to see if when cranking with the starter if there was any response from the throttle plate with the pedal floored. Nothing. Would seem to indicate to me an issue in something controlling the throttle plate. A side note that had me leaning more towards ecu, the top of the windshield rotted out with rust, now the windshield is held on with caulk, liquid nails and hope. Got me thinking it was likely a water issue getting into wiring. Didn’t see anything at the junction supplying power to the throttle plate. I did take out and take apart the gas pedal as well. Looks like it’s all electronic controlled, i was expecting to find an old style wiper on a varying resistance board but was pleasantly suprised to find what I believe would be considered a Hall effect sensor. Either way everything looked normal. I did look for any kind of rodent issues, luckily none found. When I was checking it; my first thought was for sure the etc fuse, but no dice not only looked good but with a volt meter was able to verify voltage. No check engine lights, and only had a basic code reader no command capabilities. Trigger any ah ha moments for anyone?

 

Yup, the leaky windshield will screw up all the wiring down to the left of the e-brake. I'd start with checking that fuse box and all the connectors down there. Something is probably corroded. ECU I think is behind the glove box, it also doesn't like water. Also, depending on how bad that windshield was leaking, try checking the connection at the top of the gas pedal assembly. If that's corroded or the sensor is bad, you won't get any throttle.

 

From the MEGATHREAD: Occasionally, water trails down harnesses into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics, pics), or the in-dash fusebox (pics & pics & pics) it happens a LOT.

Here's all the info on it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/definitive-2000-2006-cab-area-rain-water-leak-thread.70464/

 

2000 Tundra 4.7. Over 20 years ago the wife drove to New York during the winter. While there, it did the same thing. Started and idled fine but no response when pressing the gas pedal. Towed to Toyota. Diagnosed throttle sensor failure. They said it was a rare occurrence and had to overnight the part from Japan.

 

Yep, that’s where the throttle is wired too.

I think we just found our next victim of water intrusion into the dash. I swore I had a link to the ETCS corrosion problem (Electronic Throttle Control System?) that causes the pedal to stop working in the megathread, I guess maybe not. But, once water gets into the plastic connector to the left of the e-brake pedal pad, throttle control flakes, then dies. There’s a thread on here with pics.

@drulie81 you cannot let windshield rust, windshield cracks, or a-pillar leaks (like those from the vertical windshield trim holes) go unchecked in these trucks. You’re asking for a goddamn nightmare if you do. We’ve seen it all. It’s repairable, but it gets bad, and fast. It happens often enough that the only thing we have more pics of on this forum is ignorant/non-believers who don’t accept the warnings that you cannot use non-OEM lower ball joints.

 

This is the throttle connector water rot issue:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/cod...ator-power-source-circuit-malfunction.137914/

These may also provide some insight on things to look at or look for on circuit rot, for the drivers side:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/02-tundra-electrical-problems.45605/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/after-the-auction-new-to-me-tundra.73288/