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After the auction - new to me tundra

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by peanut, Aug 24, 2020.

  1. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:14 AM
    #1
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    angle pic.jpg

    I bought a 2001 4x4 access cab at an auction last week for $2500. It has 221k miles, a tuff country 4.5 lift, a warn m-8000 winch, no rust, some hella lights underneath pointed at the rear wheels (?), and the burliest running bars welded to the frame that I've ever seen. It runs smooth and compression seems good. I'm just trying to get it to where its functional & safe for going to the woods and hauling/towing stuff.

    Not great parts are: a fair amount of body damage (needs fenders, bumpers, driver door), nasty carpet, cigarette stink, what I think is the APPS issue, and it breaks the tires loose going from P to D. And tries to when going from P to R. It sits on 4 different size tires, two with slow leaks, the check engine light is on, and the OBD2 port doesn't work. I haven't checked the brakes beyond visually but maybe they need work too.


    door dent.jpg

    running boards.jpg

    After getting it home I changed the oil, drained the transmission pan and refilled, and started working on the obd2 port then got grossed out by the interior.

    So this weekend I pulled the interior out and cleaned the carpets following this advice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJrNqINzNjM which seems to have worked great.

    gross interior.jpg
    empty cab.jpg
    I removed two car alarms, a remote start system, an old aftermarket stereo amp, a bus for long gone lights, and an old CB speaker from under the dash and generally got it back to some semblance of sanity. Clearing out the electric gear made it so the factory clock didn't run at 1 min/15secs of real time.

    I also scrubbed all the plastic parts I pulled out while pulling the dash and carpet.

    I cleaned the headliner following this advice https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLmjg2nMpi4.

    I'm glad it will be clean when I put it back together.

    I also tracked down some craigslist 17" TRD rims for $200 and wrangler duratracs with decent tread left for $60 for the set. But I forgot to check the backspacing on the rims and so will need different ones as the ones I bought are 5.5 and the lift needs 4.75 or less.

    The questions I have so far are:

    1. Why does the car jerk so violently going from P to D or R? From D to 2 or L is fine and D to N is fine, D to R there is a little clunk. R to N is fine. R to D is same as D to R. I do plan to grease the drive shaft/u-joints and change the diff oil but the interior work bumped themm down the list. What else should I check? Replace the u-joints just because its an unknown?


    2. Do I need a driveline spacer with a 4.5 lift? What are the specs for the angles I should check to know?


    driveshaft at rear diff.jpg
    center support bearing.jpg
    driveshaft at transfer case.jpg
    upper control arm - ball joint.jpg


    3. Does anyone know where to find rims based on their lugs & backspacing? All the places I know to look online want you to specify the vehicle.

    4. Are these doors the doors with chrome molding or without? I think they're with chrome and that someone painted the chrome but don't know. IF they are painted how would you strip that off? Mask it & brush on aircraft stripper ?


    side molding.jpg



    5. Does anyone know anything about these rims? I don't know how to id them, other than they're 16s


    16 rim.jpg


    6. Why would someone install lights that point at their back tires?


    hella lights.jpg


    And here's peanut:
    peanut.jpg

    Thanks for any advice. It should be a fun project.

    side.jpg
     
    soobahru, WFD473, bokch0y and 13 others like this.
  2. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:17 AM
    #2
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    Oh also does anyone have a favorite rear seat seat cover? The bench cushions don't have fabric on them for some reason.
     
  3. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:21 AM
    #3
    YardBird

    YardBird Native San Diegan

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    Welcome aboard from SoCal.
     
  4. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:22 AM
    #4
    The Californian

    The Californian Currently the land of flames and smoke

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    I don't have answers to any of your questions; but tell Peanut I say what's up!
     
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  5. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:34 AM
    #5
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Just at a glance, it looks like you bought someones old wheeling rig. The lights are called 'rock lights.' Wheelers install them so they can see what obstacles are ahead or what they are stuck on when four wheeling at night. If it were me, I would grease everything and change every fluid/filter to start. The tire chirp from D/R might be due to lack of grease on the drive line points.
     
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  6. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:43 AM
    #6
    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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  7. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:49 AM
    #7
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Check for codes when the obd works. The rough shift into gear might be a trans issue. Or drive line. 4.5” lift is a lot
    For the driveshaft
     
  8. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:49 AM
    #8
    Prostar 190

    Prostar 190 Super Secret Elite Member #9

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  9. Aug 24, 2020 at 11:54 AM
    #9
    jsquared22

    jsquared22 _________________

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    Welcome from SoCal!
     
  10. Aug 24, 2020 at 12:56 PM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    Welcome to the forum. Funny how the dogbone looking thing on the carpet under the center console resembles the old Tool cock-n-balls logo.

    With regard to the wiring fixes: Good job. Two alarms, sounds like someone was lazy! Couldn't be arsed to remove the 1st when installing the 2nd. That would worry me about what you'll find when you get the stereo out. Hopefully they didn't cut the factory harnesses like f'in idiots. I suspect you'll be hammering thru some nasty wiring crap based on the add-ons I'm seeing.

    Carpet: That formula they mentioned should work nicely. I've found Simple green and a similar brush works great. I can link back to my suggestion if you're interested. It's not dissimilar from that video, except I take the carpet out as you have, I use a brush to loosen stuff up, then pressure wash it out. Pressure washing is best because it will also knock out any rooted mildew, which their method may not.

    For the side trim, looks like plasti-dip or paint. Do you have a spudger or plastic scraper you can run perpendicular to it just to see if it peels off (plasti-dip)? If that does nothing, you could try lacquer thinner or mineral spirits in an inconspicuous spot first, if that doesn't work, I'd end up going with acetone - use sparingly or tape the other areas - or use some lubricant with a this plastic razor set, staying as flush to the panel surface as possible to prevent digging in and chipping. That plastic razor kit is something everyone should have in the toolbox.
     
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  11. Aug 24, 2020 at 12:57 PM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    Oh, and give Peanut some extra pats for me. Cute pup!
     
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  12. Aug 25, 2020 at 8:22 PM
    #12
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    Thanks all. Peanut has been digging the extra attention.

    I ran a new 12V line to the OBD2 port and all that was set was a P1127 code. I traced that back to corrosion in the connector just inside the firewall. After fixing the corrosion & restarting the truck the CEL turned off. So now I need to put the interior back in place, lube everything, and see if it'll pass emissions testing. And also what codes pop up while driving ... should be fun
     
  13. Aug 26, 2020 at 6:26 AM
    #13
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    It's part of the adventure! Good job so far, worst part sounds like it's past you now.

    For the corrosion and water leaking part, could be the front glass, could potentially be from the cowl, and I recall reading someone talking about water intrusion, I think from the steering shaft seal? I haven't dug around under the driver's side of the dash much so I'm not 100% sure. But either way, in the long ass list of sticky threads at the top of the Gen1 forum, you'll find a "definitive leak" thread which has a lot of the common ones.
     
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  14. Aug 26, 2020 at 12:49 PM
    #14
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    OK so I got it all greased & back together and took it on a test drive around the block. Things sounded ok and the "slamming into gear from Park" problem seems to have disappeared.

    About halfway down the third street around the rear wheels locked up. So I jacked it up on the passenger side and put it in neutral and the wheel wouldn't turn. Did the same thing on the driver side and it didn't turn. I'm grabbing tools to go back and see what I can find out. I had not checked the brakes or bearings/seals yet. Earlier I did replace the rear diff oil. I plan to loosen the lug nuts, put it on jack stands, try to turn things by hand, pull the drums and inspect the brakes. And probably replace the brakes, bearings, and seals I guess.

    Any ideas what it could be?
     
  15. Aug 26, 2020 at 12:54 PM
    #15
    Boerseun

    Boerseun Super White

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    Was it a solid lock or more gradual screeching halt? Solid lock is probably in the drive train while a more gradual lock up might be brake related. I can't think why brakes would just lock up, which leaves the more complicated drive train as the suspect. I would say disconnect the drive shaft and see what turns. Maybe there is something jammed in the differential.
    I hope it is something small though.
     
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  16. Aug 26, 2020 at 1:05 PM
    #16
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    Thanks.

    I'd say gradual rather than sudden as I only noticed it because of a squeal over a sealcoated section and then that coasting wasn't really happening. It felt like braking rather than coasting anyway. I'll write more after I get a look at it.
     
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  17. Aug 26, 2020 at 1:12 PM
    #17
    Marty McFly

    Marty McFly R.I.P KB!! Lakers Nation 4Life

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    Those don’t look like running boards. More like sliders :notsure:

    welcome from the 80s :hattip:
     
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  18. Aug 26, 2020 at 1:39 PM
    #18
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

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    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    OK so instead of working on it in the street around the corner I decided to test whether it was completely f'd or not so I started it, put it in drive, and let off the brake. It rolled forward fine without any noise under idle the rest of the way home. So I have no idea what was happening that caused the forward motion issue earlier and am happy to be able to take it apart and see in my driveway. I'm guessing bad drum brakes that don't release & haven't been serviced in a while. Maybe something with the wheel cylinder where the brake fluid isn't draining from the rears as fast as it should. But after sitting is fine.
     
  19. Aug 26, 2020 at 1:41 PM
    #19
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Allergic to Darkness....

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    Too many
    I would do a drain and fill on the rear diff immediately. Let's hope it's not low on diff juice.

    I hate to say it but $2,500 was a stretch for that truck. I hope that you're able to get it running right for very little additional expense. The good news is that these trucks can take a lot of abuse. They are like the girls that always date dudes that treat them like shit.
     
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  20. Aug 26, 2020 at 1:47 PM
    #20
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    Sliders aren't from the 80s, they're from the off road/rock crawling community.

    @peanut Don't take this the wrong way, but you have a truck that's been ridden hard and put away wet. Doesn't look rusty, so it's a solid platform. Everything looks fixable/replaceable.
     
  21. Aug 26, 2020 at 5:38 PM
    #21
    shifty`

    shifty` "that guy"

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    I dunno, sometimes hard and wet can be a goooood combo! :D
     
  22. Aug 26, 2020 at 8:55 PM
    #22
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Your into the innuendos I see.




    We can be great friends
     
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  23. Aug 26, 2020 at 9:14 PM
    #23
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Marty is stuck in the 80s, thats where his greeting is from.

    I'm curious what happened to that slider. Picturing a hi lift jack was involved and that explains the door.

    When my rear diff went out it would lock up occasionally, abruptly, and would roll again later. A big pin in the carrier was loose and jamming between ring and pinion. Put your rear axle up on jack stands, chock the front tires, put it in drive and listen for thumping in the rear end.
     
  24. Aug 27, 2020 at 8:10 AM
    #24
    KNABORES

    KNABORES New Member

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    Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Westin bull bar with 20" LED Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers trim and tool box
    Welcome to the forum.

    Odd looking wheels: my guess is they were put on there cause they're cheap. Not even the right size tires for the truck. Likely had a better setup and pulled them when the truck was sold / totaled.
    New to you TRD wheels: you may still be able to use these wheels you bought with a set of spacers.
    Rear end: There may be some locker mods in there. Maybe just a factory LSD issue or some aftermarket or homemade mods were performed. May need to pull the third member and inspect. May also explain the shift out of P issue as well. Front diff looks like its been opened before, lots of RTV looking sealant in the pic. Are the tires on the rear axle a different size from one another? That will cause the rear end to behave strangely, especially if there's a locker of some kind in there. I wouldn't drive it if the tires are not the same size. If there's a traction control system on that truck it will confuse it as well as the ABS system, and possibly damage the drive train.
     
  25. Aug 27, 2020 at 9:04 AM
    #25
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

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    Vehicle:
    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    Thanks for the suggestions.

    I was able to get the truck on jack stands this AM and pull the wheels/drums and spin things by hand then run it in D. I took videos I can post if anyone wants to see them.

    For the hubs, when spinning each by hand, there is a continual vibration in the hub, some noise in the diff, and there is some play in/out if I pull on the hub. The drivers side seems like its better than the passenger side but both have play and vibration.

    In D it sounds like the diff is noisy but not thumping. It doesn't sound like anything is thumping, just more like the gears aren't meshing as well as maybe they should be. When spinning things by hand the diff is definitely also making some noise.

    I wonder if because of the lift changing the angle of the diff from horizontal made it so it when it was filled it wasn't filled as full as it should've been throughout its life.

    Anyway I'll start reading about replacing rear ends. Should I just pull it and open it up and look? Or is there a way to know without doing that? Also is the gear ratio stamped on it anywhere or do I just have to count it off?

    I don't think there are lockers because there isn't an obvious control arm/lever/cable/solenoid or anything coming out of either diff. They need one right?


    That pic with the ton of RTV is the transfer case. The tires on the rear were definitely two sizes.


    Also the rear most u-joint was installed however long ago where the zerk is pointed at the driveshaft yoke so I'm going to replace that joint today.

    Thanks again
     
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  26. Aug 27, 2020 at 9:19 AM
    #26
    Pucks18

    Pucks18 Panic mode

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    Also dont throw it in park with the rear wheels still spinning like I have done once lol
     
  27. Aug 27, 2020 at 9:37 AM
    #27
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Yeah thats not at all recommended. Use the brakes first.
     
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  28. Aug 27, 2020 at 10:21 AM
    #28
    KNABORES

    KNABORES New Member

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    If it's the factory LSD, then no cables or hoses are needed. If it's an aftermarket LSD, lunchbox or Aussie locker then no cables are needed for those either. Do the tires turn the same way when on the jack stands or opposite?
     
  29. Aug 27, 2020 at 10:36 AM
    #29
    peanut

    peanut [OP] making uneconomical choices about my truck

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    2001 Tundra 4x4 V8 Access cab 222k miles
    Bought it at an auction with a Warn M8000, tuff country 4.5 lift, welded on running boards
    Oh clearly I have no idea.

    They spin in opposite directions.
     
  30. Aug 27, 2020 at 10:59 AM
    #30
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Are the bolts holding the backing plate tight? That play in and out could be kinda bad. If you've got the drums off it's not much more to just pull the axle. Then you can shine a light in the axle tube and kinda see the diff and check your rear bearings/seals.
     
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