What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

The Sequoia wheelbase is 122 inches.
The RCSB wheelbase is 126.8 inches.
When I was doing the T-case swap on my truck, I looked into this to determine if I could use the Sequoia rear driveshaft.

 

Well I’ll be…

Thanks for the correction.

 

One of those storage boxes is on my gotta have list.

 

Are you keeping the original headlights? Or parting them out? Mine are in desperate need of replacing or refurbishing.

 

this is incredibly helpful. Thank you!

 

I doubt I'll ever use them. I cleaned them both up last year with the cerakote kit. Driver's side is in great shape. Passenger side is a little hazy internally it looks like to me. If you want them you can have them for the cost of shipping. I will get a couple close up pics this evening if you want.

 

Yeah send pics please.

 

They'll be 3 of us.

I don't want to hear anything except the several voices in my head arguing about what I should send shouldn't do.

 

Got eibach stage 1 front struts installed. Much better!

 

Take your sway bar off and experience the full comfort

 

Will do. Gotta take off the TRD skid plate too. Not going off road.

 

Interested if you're going to put it up for sale.

 

With the Eibach Stage 1 kit that @phabej is running, I wouldn’t recommend a front sway bar delete. Bilsteins you would be ok, but I found the Eibachs to be pretty loose in the corners - both Stage 1 and Stage 2, but moreso stage 1, even on a stock vehicle set at stock height. Just my opinion.

 

Did you put a manual tcase in your truck?

 

AWD conversion...
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...013-tundra-to-full-time-awd-capability.54474/

 

It depends where you're at. I'm in Washington state. I don't want to ship it. Heavy and Big

 

I thought of shipping and how rates are out of control right now. I'm in CO.

 

Oh wait sorry. Mines a 2018 . Wrong sub-forum

 

Passenger side outer handle broke off. Got some new color matched handles through eBay. Came with 4 but as mine is a double cab only needed the 2.

 

That’s because they’re progressive pistons; I ran the kit with no sway bar and it was perfectly fine to be honest; but with them worn out it would be too much roll

 

The skid still fits on 2nd Gen models, I’m running the 2.5 TRD skid on mine

 

Got lucky and found someone parting a silver tundra near me. New headlights and bumper trim

Before


After


also took the horse for a ride

 

been working on driver's side LCA for going on three weeks now when i can find the time between family obligations. neighbors probably hate me. driver's side is almost back together after a few trips to toyota carlsbad's parts center. New LCA, all new cam bolts, new sway bar end links, new shock→LCA bolt (it got fuxked up when removing), new outer tie rod end... hopefully this thing drives a little nicer when it's all back together. passenger side up next. i already bought all the same hardware just in case. i'll return everything i don't need but wanted to have it all on hand. will post pics when i'm finished.

 

I was 1,200 miles away from home on vacation, when I experienced sporadic loss of fuel pressure. The first time it happened, I was on flat interstate with my toy hauler in the middle of rush hour traffic. Ambient temp was 95º and I had been driving for the past 8 hours. I had a little over a 1/4 tank left, and noticed fuel temps exceeding +125º! I was able to lightly use the accelerator, having intermittent fuel pressure, and worked my way over to the shoulder. I had 15 gal of gas cans with me and dumped it all in bringing the fuel temps down to 90º. It restored fuel pressure just enough for me to finish the drive to a gas station, but I couldn't add more than 40% throttle (I have PE set at 41% throttle on account of boost - in other words, ECU commands more fuel at 41% throttle, going into open-loop with AFRs at 12:1 or less).

Later, I started losing fuel pressure whenever the tank fell below half, on top of having high fuel temps.

I made it to my last destination and ordered a URD upgrade pump, had it shipped to my location, and was ready to install it while I was on the road.

Now a little back story - 2 years ago I installed a 38 gal tank. What I didn't realize is that there was supposed to be a plastic sheet covering the opening for the fuel pump.

Tank at unboxing...


After dropping the tank on my recent trip, I found that I did in fact have the protective plastic... it must have come off during shipping and I didn't see it in the tank before installing.

Plastic stuck in pump housing intake and wrapped around float:



Then I found the rubber band that would have been used to hold the plastic over the opening:


Got it all cleaned up and put back together. Needless to say, no more fueling issues!

I didn't use the new pump and now have a URD high flow pump and external filter for sale, if anyone is interested.

 

Good trouble shooting and going to the last known variable! Glad its not a head scratcher taking all things apart.

 

I got back from a work trip to California and when I turned my AC on, it made a grinding noise and the button starts flashing... so I get to figure that out this weekend. Hopefully it's just a relay or needs a recharge. I don't want to swap the compressor right now.

 

Or ever really...

 

Flashing button means the relay isn’t working or compressor is bad/clutch is bad

get someone to turn your ac on while you’re staring at your compressor, have them press the AC button so you can watch and see if the clutch is moving in and out; if it is but the compressor isn’t engaging your clutch is bad

 

compressor job on these trucks are actually ridiculously easy, especially on the 4.7