What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

start with the easiest stuff first: replace the clamp on the hose.

 

Word. Considering the amount of fluid it's lost in a week while being driven minimally, I think I'll replace the hose itself as well as the clamp on the other side.

Just so I maybe don't have to check and fill the trans more than once.

 

The hose itself could be the problem. A lot of designated A/T hose only has a temp rating in the mid 200s F. Gates makes an A/T hose with a temp rating above 300F.

I learned this when I replaced the A/T hoses on my 80 series, so YMMV.

 

Also fair. It doesn't look like an OEM hose to me. So could be something odd like that. Although it has been quite cool here, I did work the truck loaded up for 2000 miles. So maybe this hose is just kinda old and tired and finally gave up, thankfully it waited, whatever is going on.

 

Taking advantage of the 15% off sale. Been ordering stuff from Serra Toyota left and right. I think this is a pretty good deal for all OEM front brake replacement (in my case upgrade to 13WL).

 

I keep debating whether or not to do that, especiallyyyy the rear whewww

 

Finally new bearings. OEM lasted 280k miles.

 

I need to paint-match the cap first, I think.

If i could pull off that rear wrap off tomorrow for a reasonable amount of money, I'd probably do it. It'd also reduce (or kill entirely) my need to paint-match the cap. I found Avery brand white vinyl wrap is a good paint match to the 056 Natural White trucks.

 

Huh, I didn't know that was an option for 1st Gen Tundras. Which year is your 1st Gen Tundra? Does it only work for the '04-'06 trucks with JBL + Navigation?

 

Sorry. Wrong forum. My bad.

 

Ah! Actually, now I'm wondering if this would work to add wireless CarPlay to our 2020 HiHy with the JBL system and smaller touchscreen.

I've used the MagicLink (thanks @The Black Mamba ) to add wireless CarPlay to my already-CarPlay enabled radios, but I find the short delay between keypresses and action on the head unit using wireless CarPlay to be completely aggravating. And I've found it happens on nearly every vehicle I've used wireless CarPlay on (lots of complaints on the internet about this issue)

 

What's a HiHy ! Sorry

 

Highlander Hybrid

 

Doesn't the 2020 Toyota come with Android auto and Apple carplay already?

If you just need wireless, there's a few options out there. One being AA wireless and the other one being the Motorola wireless via USB connector. Connects via Bluetooth. I have The AA wireless on my 2023 Sienna. It automatically connects a minute after I start the car. But I'm using Android.

 

Mmm crusty

 

7 hours later, new spindles, CV axles, and power steering rack.

 

That's a good amount of work!

 

CUrious how much that rear wrap would cost, a lotttt of red. Oooo that's good to know, gotta do something about the paint falling off my driver door below the window eventually

 

In reality, a 6x5 sheet of Avery Dennison brand wrap runs around $100. You’d probably need a full sheet in red that size for each bedside, and 1x5 sheets run around $15. I’d probably need a 8x8 sheet (ish) to finish the remaining cap in white and could use the red leftovers for the cap also.

You could go with another brand wrap like VViViD+ and maybe save 10-15% but Avery (IMO, I’m finding) is much easier to deal with stretching without heat. The youngest kid has been having me wrap his RC cars and let me tell you, body panels on real cars are light years easier to deal with than these little RC bodies, the ability of a wrap to handle stretching and actually grip without bubbling is very noticeable.

Iur of pocket, to try and replicate the back-end paint on that video game car and color match the cap in wrap would probably be about $600-700 in product, I’m guessing. If I wanted a shop to do it, the math I typically find that fits for many things automotive is [LABOR = 2x PRODUCT COST], so If probably expect $1,200-1,400 in labor if I outsourced the work to a competent wrap shop.

 

Hopefully I don't regret it, but I'm chickening out on cam and crank seals as part of timing belt replacement. L cam rear cover has this stud that just wants to break when I try to turn it. Tried removing the can pulley to get access for vice grips but I can't seem to get it with a breaker bar and can holder tool.
Crank has some rust on it that would have to be cleaned off. I think I trust the factory installed seals more than I trust my ability to install new ones.

 

I get your reticence on the bolt. And impact may get you there with mitigated risk?

Two things, common mistakes to avoid.

1. Be careful not to pinch your cam position sensor wires with the water pump during install.
2. Be sure to route the crank position sensor harness/loom BEHIND the pulley bracket during reassembly.

​

 

Thanks, I'll have a think about it while cleaning the water pump surface. I went as far as putting the impact on the bolt before second guessing whether that was a good idea

 

Now I just have to not fuck up the rest of it

 

Well this is not ideal

 

Ouch!