First time preventative maintenance

Aside from what TBM already shared, I just want to say I'm seeing two more problems.

Blue arrow: That boot should be pulld down over that bumpout.
Blue line: That bracket should be bolted to, I think, that hole in the transmission.

I may be wrong on one or both, but I don't think I am.

 

EDIT:

 

Hey Black Mamba just fyi I tried searching for the link to the FSM, however either I overlooked it or just flat out couldn't see it. Anyways, based on the other threads, I'm gonna look into that possible bushing issue as well. I mean the truck itself is well over 20 years old, so that's a good possibility as well.

 

Hey shifty, so that's where my issue arises. If I put ALL the bolts back in, then the transmission will only go back to N, despite the stick itself being in P. Also to the rubber sleeve, I intentionally pulled it down to show my current issue. I don't have an issue with pulling the rubber sleeve back over the whole thing.

 

Try this link https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9...aGM/view?resourcekey=0-IUgFBrEgIe9zfnbQv0LhaA

 

That works great Black Mamba. Now I just need to figure out the root of the issue itself. I'll probably play with it tomorrow since I feel a sinus headache coming on.

 

Another good search tern is Transmission Control Cable. I would start with section AT-21, page 1595.
For your exact issue, check the Problem Symptom Table (Flow Chart) in section DI-400 page 670

 

Hey guys so based on what I am seeing, now the transmission shift cable can't even move out of D. I can't even get it to the N position as it's at too much of an angle to get the nut back on. Bare in mind that I've reattached the metal bracket to hold the cable itself back in place. The only thing I can think of is that the transmission shift cable itself is bad. However, I find it weird that the metal part that connects to the swivel rod that attaches to the transmission shifter is able to twist sideways just fine, but cannot push/pull at all. Unfortunately there's no videos online to give a better understanding of the transmission shift cable.

Also because of this current issue, I'm unable to start the truck. Any ideas?

 

Hey guys so I was finally able to get the cover under the steering wheel removed. Here's the photo based on similar issues with other posts that I've seen. Is there anything I need to look into here by chance?

 

Once again, it's linked from the megathread, my dude. Under the 2nd reply, under "Recalls, TSBs, Annoyances" section and can be found by searching the word "shift".

• Sloppy shift lever OR truck doesn't shift into gear but the lever moves: Here's your thread but you may also want to see this commentary.

That first link is 100% an issue (but maybe not your actual issue). Your bushing is absolutely gone.

 

Hey shifty, so I would like to apologize for overlooking the information at first. To be fair, I do tend to overlook certain details specific to situations that I'm in, so I do appreciate your patience in helping me to realize what I was overlooking. So the good news is that my local Autozone happens to have the bushing, so I'll fuss with that tomorrow.

 

Hey shifty, so I bought the bushing, but I'm trying to figure out how the plastic arm is able to fit inside of it. I'm wondering if its gonna be a super tight fit or what the deal is because I can't seem to get it on the bushing.

 

I had a similar issue, and I swore I wrote about it before. I believe I had to slide the bushing on the metal post, then slide the black shifter end over the bushing? It was either that or the reverse, put it in the shifter end and apply on the post. Make sure there’s no residual plastic anywhere.

 

Hey shifty, so I'm gonna do the other way. I've naturally tried putting on the metal post then sliding the black shifter on, but won't go. I've seen a video where they do the other way and apparently it works. However, they use a different bushing to get it to work, so we'll see what happens.

 

It definitely wouldn’t work one way, and I had to do it the other. Thinking back, I think I did insert it into the cable end, then onto the post. I feel like that was the only way to get enough leverage on it. It definitely was stiff, as it should be. (TWSS)

 

Hey shifty, so I found a video talking about using pliers to be able to get the bushing onto the arm. However, I did notice how they had the plastic arm removed from the truck, so I'm wondering how they were able to do that.

 

Here you go, it's in the 1st link of the bullet point above, I wrote the caution message about the order to us, in all-caps, so (at least I'd hoped) nobody could possibly miss it if they just looked at the thread. Do you read anything we link at all?

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**EDIT** Success, so I realized that the transmission was in N, so I was able to get it into P and now the truck turns on like it's supposed to. Hey shifty, I do apologize that I gave you so much hassle as my brain doesn't comprehend information like most guys on the forums here.

 

It's not a hassle. If it was, I wouldn't reply. I just prefer to rib-as-I-go.

 

Is the vehicle on an incline of some kind? Perhaps the transmission is bound up

 

No it's not. Thankfully where I live, its very flat. However, the downside to my brain is that I tend to overthink things when in reality, I just have to learn to breathe, mentally take a step back and figure out where I am and what I am forgetting to do. At the end, I just figured out that the shifter was in P and thankfully I was able to turn the truck enough to move the shifter to the N position. After that, everything literally worked as it should.

Now I'm just waiting on my mechanic to have some room so that I can take the truck to him so that he can help to remove the stubborn sensor (they have more tools than I do, not to mention more strength to deal with the sensor than I do).

 

Ok so I just got a call from my mechanic. Unfortunately he says that the oxygen sensor is just too seized on there, so I'm gonna have to buy a brand new exhaust manifold because of this. Looks like this is going to be a rather expensive fix, just based on parts alone.

 

So I just got done watching a video on removing the exhaust manifold. Maybe this is a dumb question, but wouldn't it be easier to remove the struts that hold the brakes in place in order to make more room in order to replace that or is this not possible?

 

You don’t have to buy a new exhaust manifold. You could remove your old manifold and take it to an exhaust shop if you can’t get the O2 sensor out. They can cut the old one out and weld a new bung on for you. Or leave the old one where it is and weld a new bung on for you. Abandon ship on that one.

 

Ah ok, ill have to look into an exhaust shop to see how much this would cost.

 

Ok so I talked with the specialist who deals with that and they said worst case scenario is that they have to cut the bung off and that would cost $80. So now I have a lot of work ahead of me in terms of trying to get the exhaust manifold out. However, if I can get it out, then I might have to get new studs to put the manifold back in when I get the bung replaced.

 

Hey Avoice217, if you don’t mind me asking, what state do you live in? (Curious if you live in a rust prone state) im surprised the o2 sensor was so badly seized on their even a shop can’t get it off.

 

Sorry for the delay in messaging. I'm in the process of getting over some kind of allergy based cold. Anyways, I do live in Texas, but for some weird reason the shop just couldn't get it to move at all.

 

Im surprised nobody has mentioned this to you, but REPLACE YOUR LOWER BALL JOINTS IN PAIRS. that is something you don’t want to toy around with. Replacing only one at a time is not gonna cut it, there’s a thread somewhere around here (I can dig it up if you really want me to but I believe it’s stickied on the front page) of dozens upon dozens of people who’s lower ball joint failure led to catastrophic damage. Even if one or there other isn’t showing any wear and tear, it’s something you’ll want to replace every 100K miles. You’ll want to buy OEM on the lower ball joints, dont buy aftermarket. DONT BUY PARTS FROM ScAmazon, eBay, or wallyworld. Lots of counterfeit parts on those sites.

 

Hey all so maybe I'm missing something here, but my understanding is that a P0420 code (bank 1, sensor 1) is in reference to the upstream o2 sensor. Am I wrong with this understanding? The reason I ask is because so far all I've replaced is the downstream o2 sensor and while that fixed the check engine light issue, I'm surprised by this because the code that I read from my obd2 scanner said it was bank 1 sensor 1.

While I'm overall thankful that the check engine light went out, I'm just overall a little confused by this. I still am planning on replacing all the sensors however.