Another suspension question, i looked but didn't quite find my answer.

So I got a 2006 double cab limited, i was planning trying to hold out and go all out with 6112/5160 setup with new UCA and LCA and all but my strut is giving out, i really only have 700(i could maybe scrape together a 1000) but i need to figure something out by end of April for a trip ballin on a budget but I'm torn if I should just get 5100s and leave the stock springs and run 5100s all around otherwise if someone has a way to maybe still get the 6112/5160 shocks setup for my budget in the meantime till I can get the rest of the parts

*edit i should've worded it different, the key point is i just need something in the 700 range budget to do for right now, i didn't know if I could still maybe get JUST the 6112/5160 shocks for that price and run them no issue

 

There's no way you're going to get UCA, LCA, and 6112/5160s on that budget. Here's what you can do, and it's a good set-up. Add $200 if you want the springs and struts to come assembled.
https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p769/Bilstein/OME-Lift-Level-Kit-2000-2006-Toyota-Tundra.html#/

 

Get the 5100s for now. Save up for the dream setup for later. Sell the 5100s here when upgrading.

 

The one key piece of info that would help everyone here help you is this:

WHAT DO YOU WANT OR INTEND FOR YOUR TRUCK?!

Based on what you wrote, I don't think anyone here understands why you think you need UCA or LCA. Like ...

Are you talking abot getting OEM or aftermarket LCA and UCA for some reason?

UCA-wise, are you doing something special that warrants buying aftermarket UCA, like lifting moer than 2.5" - 3"? Or maybe you're doing some extra-special wheel/tire combo that would necessitate aftermarket UCA?

LCA-wise, are your old ones blown out? Or do you live in the rust belt and plan to swap them out? Do you know if your LCA hardware is frozen, which can be a really shitty, expensive thing to find out when you're swapping LCAs, knowing that all the aftermarket hardware uses plastic sleeves that smash/deform after the first alignment?

And I ask about this for good reason: If you plan on lifting your truck more than 2.5", you're going to need at least an inch of lift in the rear, which means you're now needing to buy AAL kit (at least, since lift blocks are shit to avoid), or aftermarket HD springs.

There's a sweet spot on these trucks. On your DC, you'll get "level" with about 1.25" - 1.75" of lift, which opens a wide array of possibilities with wheels and tires, you won't need to lift the rear, you won't need aftermarket UCA either, though extended swaybar links would help. You can easily get there and be able to adjust later with the 6112 kit. Once you get into that 2"+ area, that's when you need to start thinking about extras - rear lift, adjustments for alignment etc. (which I think is pretty clearly stated in the megathread's suspension upgrade section)

Stop and think about next your replies: If we can't understand what you're trying to achieve with your 1st gen, how can we help? Tell us your goal, and what you're thinking, and maybe we can help you find a solution or upgrade path. Details are important. Let's hear some.

 

This......
Are you trying to lift big big, or just trying to be baller with all new cool parts?
The Eibach adjustable front shocks are pretty freaking cheap... Well looks like they are about double what i remember when i was shopping a few years ago but still, the Eibach shock is cheaper than the Bilstein. If you are trying to do 2-2.5" use one of these two shocks, your stock springs, and ride out assuming you can still align the front end and the front end stuff isnt all seized up.

https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=986fab27ce48bd4c&q=eibach+adjustable+shocks+2005+tundra
https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=986fab27ce48bd4c&q=bilstein+adjustable+front+shock+2005+tundra

If you are trying to get 3-4" out of the front, you should save your money a little longer.

 

Sorry I thought I worded it better lol, I know i won't get all of what i eventually want right now, but that link is actually something I've been looking for, how bad is it installing everything yourself and saving the 200 bucks?

 

I guess, is there much of a market for used shocks here?

 

I've seen this before, i know i didn't go into details on that stuff but I was thinking it didn't really matter too much on that rn because I was looking for just a temporary solution for the time being till I can install what I want, not looking for big lift end goal I just want it to be more leveled and handle better on and offroad especially with planning on getting a 4wheel camper hawk model or similar pop top slide in, for right now I just am looking for recommendations on what I can do for 700 bucks because I got a blown out shock and a trip coming up end of April

 

I'll look into this too, thanks...maybe I should've just left my future rough idea out and just kept to asking the best for temporary for the budget for right now lol

 

If all you want is:

• Get closer to level (which only takes 1"-1½" lift)
• Handle better offroad
• Not be forced to buy new hardware if you're unhappy with your stance

And you're the kinda dude who wants to have the flexibility of options for the future, instead of spending $400-500 on something now, then another $400-500 to replace that with something later... and you're patient/willing to save up another $100-150, then ....

I'd go buy the 6112 kit for the front. Maybe see what kind of deal a board vendor like @memario1214 with Hotshot Offroad can get you on the kit.

I'd also consider - if you can wing it - throwing a pair of 5100s on the rear, either now or later.

Then, when you're ready for the slide-in camper or shell, you'll probably want to get the Firestone rear air bag kit for our trucks, being sure to plumb your airbags independently so they can't pass air between each other, and you can air-up to support the ass-end of the truck when using it.

Why would I do this, instead of some other way?

• The 6112 kit will allow you to dial-in your ride height where you want it to be, not as easily as a coilover, but it's totally adjustable, and it'll ride quieter/nicer than a coilover
• You won't need to worry about the "Tundra lean", because you can adjust it out using Bilstein's circlip info in the install sheet
• It's going to give you better-than-OEM offroad handling, a larger shock body, and it comes with everything you need (you re-use/transfer over your OEM tophat and isolator hardware, or you can buy the KYB kit to go all-new)
• If you need it, you can pay a little extra to have them pre-assembled with a few select shops, for a bolt-in experience
• If you're not happy with how high/low you're sitting up front, you don't need to buy new struts, just adjust your clip settings and get realigned
• You won't need to lift the rear this way, but if you choose to lift the rear later down the road, again, you don't need to buy new struts, just adjust circlip settings, get realigned
• As long as you don't go over 2½"-3" you should not need aftermarket upper arms, and regardless how high you go, you DO NOT need new lowers unless your OEM lower bushings are blown

You may notice a recurring theme up there, and I hope you aren't making a typical unfortunate oversight others miss: You will need to pay for an alignment after updating your suspension; have funds available for that!

But heed the community's advice in the suspension section of the megathread:

• Avoid Rancho, Rough Country, and other known-problematic brands, regardless how tempting the price is, it's not worth it, trust us on that
• Don't mix spacers and lifted springs/struts unless you're hellbent on fucking your shit up
• Lift blocks are never the answer, neither are strut spacers (unless it's a tiny one to correct for lean)
• Shocks DO NOT provide lift (springs, coilovers, adjustable struts, and spacers do)
• The higher you lift, the more severe/accelerated your wear-and-tear will be on other steering/suspension components, this is just an unfortunate fact of life (fact of lift?)...
• If you haven't replaced your LBJs with new OEM (and only use OEM!!!) lower ball joints within the last 100k miles OR if you've got aftermarket LBJ installed currently, you need to address that situation before you lift your truck

And my last piece of unsolicited advice:

BUY ONCE, CRY ONCE!!
(WHICH IS WHAT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH WITH THE 6112 KIT!!)

 

It's not bad, but you're going to have to invest in or borrow some tools. Specifically spring compressors. You can borrow them from auto parts stores, but I caution you on this. Every set I've ever borrowed are barely adequate. These things can literally take your life. Be 100% confident in knowing what you're doing. I ended up buying a quality set with good safety clamps because I've had cheap ones break. Luckily I had most of the tension off the spring when it broke.

 

My dad owns and operates an auto shop so I have access to pretty much every tool I could need so I'm not too concerned about that, he's also got a full alignment rack, plus side is I don't have to worry about trying to account for extra cost on that I just need to pay for the parts

 

Thanks man, I have been planning on the bags too along with an extra reinforcement plate on the frame too once I add the weight, I'll check out that kit you linked after work tonight, that's the only downside of buying 5100s to me is that I'm gonna end up swapping it out within a year hopefully, if I got any extra I'd like to throw some new rears on Even if it's the 5100s, but it should be okay for the trip if not? I think it's gonna be about 2500mi

 

Last time I checked, pricing is in this ballpark:

• 5100: Looks like some places are selling a front/rear kit (no springs, no isolators) for around $525 after tax and ship. KYB tophat/isolator kit (read more on this below) as you should, that's around $45-55 after tax and ship. If you do the smart thing and get lifted springs, either OME or Dobinsons, so you can setup on the 5100's bottom circlip and still get lift without adding harshness, you're looking at ~$250 after tax and ship, you just need to pick out the right spring for your desired height. Somewhere the ballpark of 600 if you're assembling, or add ~$200 for preassembled last time I looked (which was like a year or more ago, some were selling as much as $950).
• 6112: Fronts only, no rears, and it looks like they're running around $900 shipped. Add in the KYB tophat/isolator kit and you're around $950 shipped. But you still need to pick up rear shocks, which adds another $250 onto that unless you can strike a deal for all three somewhere (maybe Hotshot has a deal, maybe they don't, I really don't know!)

But this is important! : There's a potential "AHA!" here that could bite you in the ass with the 5100 over the 6112. The 6112 comes with fresh new springs. The 5100 doesn't. With 5100s you can technically re-use the OEM springs *IF* the current springs are OEM. If a previous owner installed, say, Monroe preassembled shocks, the springs are going to be different and I don't believe they'll fit, the coil top or bottom is different. Another thing to consider with 5100 if re-using springs is, you'll get a harsher ride using OEM springs and ratcheting up on the circlips.

Regardless which you choose up front, 5100 or 6112, I repeat: You want to look at the condition of your tophats now, before you buy and confirm they're OEM. If not OEM or in rough shape, you need to buy the KYB kit, which is part number SM-5442, to go with your new struts.

Anyway ...

If the rear shocks are blown, it's up to you whether you want to drive for 2500 miles like that. If the bumpstops are intact and you can deal with the shock being ineffective, and whatever may come of that, that decision is on you. But I'd consider buying the airbag kit before new struts if you don't *NEED* to lift right this minute. It's more important to avoid damage to the truck than it is to lift the front.

 

Buy this kit and reuse your top hats and springs (if OEM). $470 with free shipping. Then start saving for your dream setup.

https://www.shocksurplus.com/produc...cks-set-for-1999-2006-toyota-tundra-4wd-rwd-1

 

If they're going lift springs on the bottom clip of 5100's, might as well stick with 4600's for less $.

 

Ah sweet, yeah everything is all oem I have service records of everything back to 07 as the previous owner always took it to the same toyota dealership for work, I'll take a peak at the tophats and see how they look I didn't think of checking that, the rear shocks aren't blown it's just the front drivers side thats shot so it won't be running blown shocks in rear regardless, but 100% looking to avoid unnecessary damage, but don't wanna waste money either right now on the tight budget either with wanting to upgrade asap too.

 

I've seen these but was unsure how reliable shock surplus was.

 

Shockwarehouse is another one. I’ve ordered 2 sets of Billies from them. No issues. Website looks like a clone of the shock surplus one.
$544 free shipping

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/prod...ide-height-adjustable-kit-24-261425-24-100144

 

How critical is it to install a lift kit before your roadtrip? I’m sure many guys here have drove around with worn out shocks for year. I know i have.

 

Seems like they're more reliable than SuspensionLifts/BilsteinLifts but with the way the internet works, it's probably all the same dropship storefront.

 

Exactly.

 

4600 rears are 1” shorter length that 5100 rears. The fronts say that 5100s are for trucks that will be lifted and 4600s are for stock height. Are the 4600s also shorter?

 

I haven't measured them personally but a quick search shows the rears both have about a 22.4" extended length.

The fronts show 17.94" for the 4600's and 18.35" for 5100's.


5100's are supposed to be valved stiffer for heavier modified rigs.

 

I've already been driving it for a while and it's more of a concern cause it handles like shit over any bumpy road and tends to pull, I've replaced sway bar links tie rods, and lower ball joints already within the last year so it's the only thing that's left that I feel would cause that extra roughness, it also creaks and squeaks a lot moving around I don't want to be dealing with it pulling to the side hard going over bumps on sections my girlfriend will be driving so, it's like a peice of mind sort of thing, and I don't really need to lift it specifically I just wanna get the struts replaced and don't wanna pay for the oem ones when I want to go with longer travel soon.

 

Yeah lol, it just seems sketch but if other people have actually got their products I might try them out

 

This was my recollection from previous conversations, overall lengh was a little over ¼" diff between the two. Granted, I'm not sure if the spring seat is at the same height with 5100 at bottom notch, which is why I was hesitant to say whether or not the 4600 would work with, say, the 2884 or 2885. I know we have people on here who've used the 2883 with the 4600s. I want to say there's only like a 5-10mm height difference between each step up (2883>28884>2885) but ...

 

Cool chart. So spring rate is the same across the board, only length changes to increase the preload it seems. I was under the impression the 2883 were 650# coils and 2884 were 700# coils.

 

I've posted a chart in the past which shows # of turns, and includes the 2887, but this should get you the info you need. I'm not sure where the info above came from, this confirms my recollection of ~10mm height difference. I'll try to find the other chart in a sec.

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