2005 double cab radio replacement

Yes, I searched. and I read a lot of posts. but........some posts had a TON of pages and the conversations diverged from the original topic so it got hard to follow and find what I was looking for.

I want to replace the radio in my '05 double cab. my truck is not a daily driver. it's a secondary vehicle that doesn't get used all the time. I'm not an audiophile. I just want to listen to the radio or podcasts when I'm driving it.

I'd probably install a back up camera at some time.

my real issue is finding one that is just easy to install. I've researched some and perused a lot on Crutchfield and I get more confused. Crutchfield talks about bypassing the factory amp or replacing all the speakers if you don't and I just want something that plugs in

I do have steering wheel controls so I'd want to install the kit that allows me to still use those.

what are my options? specific band and model numbers would be great so I can look them up easily.

I just want simple. take out the old, put in the new. I don't want new speakers, new amp, etc.

thanks

 

I know it's a lot to read but first, you need to figure out which system you have.
That will help determine if you need to 'bypass or remove' any OEM amps.

1st Gen factory amplifier locations (JBL, non-JBL, all cabs) | Toyota Tundra Forum

Also if you don't know a lot of stuff the double cab is different than the Access and standard cabs, like wiring diagrams and even parts.
Take some time to read through that link and it will probably help you figure out a lot of what you have going on.

Thanks @shifty` for putting it together..

I put a single DIN hu and XM tuner in my 2005, but I also put 3 amps and a sub in it.
I had the simplest of radios mine so it wasn't that difficult.



I'd find a HU with wireless carplay/android.
I'm sure you'll stream a lot of your music and shows off your phone.
I have an Sirius/XM tuner in my 2014 but I don't use it.
I use the phone app to listen to XM now.

I'd stick with Crutchfield if you can.
I think they will connect a harness to whatever radio for a fee.
I'd also go with the Idatlink Maestro for your steering wheel controls.
Figure out if you what an external volume knob or not.

I'd stick with Kenwood or Pioneer, but that is just a personal preference.
Others like Sony and Alpine.

These seem nice for your needs.
Kenwood DMX5710S Digital multimedia receiver (does not play discs) at Crutchfield

Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX Digital multimedia receiver (does not play discs) at Crutchfield

Apple CarPlay Compatible Receivers at Crutchfield

 

Look, you really need to read the “audio” section in the 1st reply of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

It outlines what you need to know.

As 1LL just said, it boils down to:

• Do you have the JBL system?
• Do you have OEM amp?

Until you confirm those two things, there is NOTHING anyone at this forum can tell you accurately about how to upgrade in a reply here.

And whether you have an OEM amp or not will dictate whether “plug and play” is possible - I hate to tell you, it usually isn’t. It’s not the norm to have a double cab with no amp.

 

sorry, I didn't include it in the original post. Yes, I have the JBL system. it's a CD, radio, and cassette in a double DIN package.

I'm assuming i have the OEM amp since I am the original owner and I have done nothing to the stereo since it was picked up brand new.

I'll look through the link posted

thanks

 

thanks, I'll look at the thread you posted for more info. I do have the JBL system in mine with the CD player, radio, cassette player.

regarding the Kenwood you posted. this is where my confusion is. on crutchfield's site, they say they recommend new 4 ohm speakers if you bypass the factory amp to avoid damaging the new radio. is this really necessary? this is where I'm confused on things. I just want to plug the thing in and go. i don't want to replace any speakers. I've seen this recommendation on other head units I've looked at and I don't know if this is really necessary. I'm trying to do it cheap and the stock speakers are good enough for what I need even though they're 21 years old.

thanks

 

Sadly, plug and play isn't an option in the 1st gen double cab with JBL. Is there an audio installer locally you can go to? Otherwise follow crutchfield's advice.

 

The previous owner installed an aftermarket JVC head unit in my DC. It does weird stuff from time to time. Like it'll randomly one day start modulating volume up and down to zero, then the next day it'll be normal. The sound quality is not that great either, and everything I can tell is that I have the JBL system as well. I looked into it briefly and gave up looking because of the same situation. What would be nice for me, is to be able to find a nice used OEM head unit, and somehow install an auxiliary input on it. I haven't checked if the speakers are stock.
Also, I think someone GLUED the vent knob because the fan and climate knobs can slide off, but the vent knob is solid and not coming off, which means the cover can't come off for me to look in there.

 

Technically they aren't wrong about the ohms issue.
My 2005 was non-JBL and I'm not sure what ohm the OEM speakers were.
I don't ever recall pulling a door panel in the 10 years I had it.
But I ran that Pioneer radio with old school Fosgate Punch 75 amps with stock speakers for years..




IMHO you need to bypass the amp for any new radio in your JBL TNUDRA.
All 4 speaker feeds go from the HU to the amp and then to the speakers.
If you only replace the HU, the speaker wires will still run through the amp and either won't work (it would disconnect the amp power and the remote on signal) or it would not sound good.

I don't know if you can read a wiring diagram, but you can see the wires from the HU/radio/player to the Stereo Component Amplifier for the front left/right and then the rear left/right speakers.
Even more confusing it the front has a separate woofer and tweeter lead from the amp, that issue may be solved with the harness below..



I'm not sure so verify:
I think you can use this harness to bypass the OEM amp.
The harness will bypass the amp and make the speaker wires run straight through from the HU to the speakers.
Metra 70-8117 Amp Bypass Harness Connect a new car stereo and bypass the factory amplifier in select 2003-07 Toyota vehicles at Crutchfield

A simple video on it.
It's not as difficult as you might think.
https://youtu.be/ShtGWJDfdno?si=v1p6WS1OpMHZ6NUN

I'd suggest talking with Crutchfield, they sell the harness, and make sure that is what you need.
Perhaps Critchfiled can even wire your HU to this bypass adapter, I don't know.

You can install the HU, and see how it sounds, I don't think the ohms issue will ruin the HU.
Perhaps in the future, you can upgrade your speakers, that is a pretty easy job.
Remove the door panel and replace the speakers, just get the proper adapter so you don't have to cut any wiring, as well as a proper spacer so the speaker fits in the door.

Good luck..

 

There are a variety of adapters (link below as an example) that can add Bluetooth audio (streaming) and phone functions to your factory head unit. Doesn't solve your backup cam need, but kicks the can well down the road...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_936SL3BT/Vais-Technology-SL3b-T.html?tp=25

 

You have JBL system. Unfortunately, there is no “plug and play” upgrade available for you, per se. You can’t just drop in an aftermarket radio. There will be cutting and splicing involved because the JBL system is a 6-channel system where most car audio is 4-channel; and the JBL system uses a mix of 2ohm and 4ohm speakers to create six 2ohm channels.

You basically have two basic options:

1. Keep the amp and speakers, then adapt it for a new head unit.
2. Bypass the amp with the Metra harness, and either get creative with the bypass wiring, or replace the speakers (while making a few changes that stray from what Crutchfield will tell you)

Which you choose is really up to you and your comfort level. If you just want to do #1, the PAC kit would probably work, just make sure you read the instructions BEFORE you pull the OEM radio, they want you to have the volume set at a specific level with truck powered on before you turn it off and install the kit.

There are other kits out there like Metra’s TYTO-01 which would work for #1.

If you want to do #2, too many options to list.

A 3rd option if you just want hands free and camera would be updating to a used touchscreen JBL that came as the premium navigation option, which offers hands free and backup camera (I believe) but outdated GPS you can’t get current.

 

Crutchfield is correct. Unless you install the Metra bypass harness in a very specific way (i.e. NOT the way Metra tells you), you will blow your aftermarket head unit by feeding it absurdly high-load (2ohm or less) circuits. There are ways to get around that which I’ve posted on this forum. It involves cutting the front door tweeter out of the circuit. I won’t be in a place where I can link you up with that info until the weekend, but I’ve posted pretty pictures showing all this recently.

 

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thanks. i'll review stuff as it gets posted.

if i have to replace speakers, I guess I can do so. replacing them isn't necessarily hard. it was just a cost I didn't want to incur and since I'm not looking for superior audio quality, any affordable 6" round speakers should work.

 

I mean, you really can’t beat JBL’s Club series and the component sets usually aren’t too expensive, like $79-149 a lot of times on sale. And if you go that route, I can layout how to install, if bypassing the amp, and keep tweeter and mid-woofer (6.5”) in the front door. I am sure it can be done without cutting a bunch of wires.

 

I don't want to step on any toes, but I have thought about what the cheapest functional headunit would be for an average first gen Tundra buyer wanting best bang for the buck system who is not an audiophile. This sounds like the situation of the OP. I have recently seen ads for cheap chinese Noname Android headunits for $88-110 range all-in price that are supposed to be plug n play. eBay does have super easy return policies if it doesn't work out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3565401319...ufvqhjzsty&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I also saw a detailed post about using the android unit to program keys rather than pay the added expense of a steering wheel control box such as Axxess/PAC/Crux/Maestro.

It might be worth a try.

 

my "sjoybring" is alright for the $100 I paid for it. Nothing CRAZY but for $100 I have zero complaints.

ATOTO is another brand that is highly recommended for not being utter dog shit and reasonably priced.

 

Good info..
@mfpaul if you go with this take note on the auction..