Turbo Charging A Tundra!

I reviewed the video I have about it to see the step drill bit size I used. It was 1.25" I decided to used that one after measuring the wider connector that the factory harness has. But I see that a bigger hole add more room to move it and ease the fuse box install.

 

Do you, of course. I narrowed my EXT temp spikes on long boosted runs while towing came from those lines. Jesse removed and ran the rubber lines like he did in his shop mule, but I haven't had a chance to tow with it yet to confirm it resolved everything.

I don't know enough about the puck, but I'm debating doing a bypass at each end. Engine bay and closing the puck loop to itself as well. I am not opposed to keeping the thermostat functioning (183*), but I don't also need the pick countering it (196*+).

I'm only sharing because you have access to those lines now, so relocating/rerouting vs bypassing the puck completely is sort of the same effort and may yield the same results.

If you are open to bypassing the thermostat, too, either @Mdl or @blenton (I believe it was one of them) did so using LC elbow attachments. I'm not there just yet, but I won't be forgetting it's an option. Opens a lot of space down at the crossover collector, too.

 

Thermostat is fine but eliminating the puck hoses frees up space which is nice. Do you know if the hoses are 1/2” or 5/8”?

 

Starting point for referenced delete: https://www.tundras.com/threads/is-...mission-thermostat.125500/page-3#post-3677963

I honestly don't know about the hose size. I'd need to crawl under the truck and see if I can find the print (they're wrapped where easily visible)

 

I like it, will do. Two things now to bypass.

The other https://www.tundras.com/threads/throttle-body-coolant-bypass.55350/

 

It's just cold enough up here that I don't want to remove too much. Envious of all you warm weather folks, until the summer.

 

It's 5/8 hose. I ran with the coolant lines off and bypassed the puck. I capped the pucks inlet outlet lines. Removed the hard lines. Then went straight elbows to cooler.

 

I am interested in doing this mod. Do you have a link for the elbows? Any issue or leak so far?

 

Got the elbow and feedback info from one of your posts :

Thanks

 

What are these parts for? I can’t find a reference to them in the instruction manual.

 

First 2 from left to right are the fuse box spacer and bolt:



This is how it looks when installed:



The others ... not there yet... @TurboKits / @bflooks ?

 

I knew it was a spacer but wasn’t sure for what. The bag wasn’t labeled. None of them are actually. @TurboKits might want to add that into the instructions or tell me I’m illiterate because I can’t see it in there.

 

Umm, based on the sizing and the tiny washers, I think the bag with qty 2 could be for the up pipe to the block (plate under the turbo)??

The other bag I think could be FMIC hardware for brackets and intercooler mounting. Tell me if I'm wrong. I didn't have the Stage 1.5 shipped so I'm trying to remember what the hardware all looked like while we were installing

 

Ah yes. That makes sense now. Thank you all.

 

Heck yea! will you be stocking any at your shop or will it just drop ship? If you stock them I might have to take a little drive to check out your place.

 

Not much for today. Put some more heat tape on. Mounted my relay box. Pulled the map, boost solenoid, and o2 extension cable into the cab. Going to run out soon and get some fuse taps and hose barb to eliminate the puck and clean that up. Get the up and down pipes wrapped and the crossover pipe. Then that’ll be it until Sunday when I tackle the intercooler.

 

Yup. Really like the idea of utilizing that other footwell for things. Driver's side is absolutely stuffed on mine. Good call!

Easy, low stress, little time projects before you forget them -

Yellow: grind/cut off the 2 studs on the inner fender that the brake line bracket used.
Green: bend down the lip so it is vertical. Easiest from the outside and I used an adjustable wrench with smooth jaws.
Red: You'll see what I mean when you fit the pipes, but that brake line loop will need to bend down so it is more flat. Absolutely save that for the dry fit.

Keep up the quick progress!

 

Yup haven’t done the brake line stuff yet. Got the pipes wrapped just now. Can’t find my stainless zip tie tool so before I trim the excess I’ll order one and make sure they are good and tight.

 

Houston we have a big problem @TurboKits

 

At least there is space to fit the intercooler but the bracket and pipes must be modified for sure.

 

Fixed it. This should be mentioned in the instructions.

 

False alarm! nice!

 

This whole intercooler situation is nothing but one giant pain in the ass. I’ve got a bunch of notes and pictures to send to Jesse to help the instructions.

 

The instructions down play the fight on this hose. I’m glad I cut out a bunch more than what the instructions said to cut out in the support. It’s TIGHT.

 

I use the passenger side saves on length of wire too. I've also just said eff it and just drill through firewall install a grommet and run what I need. But whatever works as my ride is an 07...

 

I made the decision today to redo the meth stuff and run it all down the passenger side just to clean up the runs.

 

Everything about this was a pain in the ass but it’s done. 6 straight hours. But it’s in and done and plumbed. Gotta get cleaned up for the sports ball game party we got invited to and then I’m out of town until Sunday so it’ll be a while before I throw all the pictures up with notes.


Oh and you can run the stock air cleaner while you have the intercooler ducting in place.

 

Having reviewed Stage 2 and having helped with updates for Stage 1, there are some assumptions made, which was also my feedback to Jesse regarding a true DIY vs a shop with lift and fabrication tools. A lot of what you are calling out are simple adjustments that a video would help a ton with. Photos and step by step directions can get you only so far, but seeing how to collapse the coupler or where to slightly bed the AC lines aren't easily captured without a video. Hint: stretch the portion of line just upstream of that where the 90* bends are. It'll let you bring it t forward a little so the port and downstream lines aren't on the coupler. Don't need much at all and the lines are soft once their start to flex, so be careful

The fact all of this fits with minimal alterations/modification really is rather impressive. If you look at the photos of my truck, you should be able to see how the aftermarket cooler lines were easier to massage than the factory, but glad you figured it out!

 

If you didn't already, throw a rubber glove or something over both open ends to keep dust and debris out of the system

 

Overall, I’m not complaining. Everything has pretty much fallen into place. But there are things that should be added in the directions to help with some of the adjustments like how to modify the trans cooler lines or trimming a small bracket off the AC cooler line and a little one off the radiator that can help things fit. Or like taking off the two front fender supports and the small black piece that goes between them can give you a ton of extra hand room for working in tight spaces. Easily captured in pics. Or some verbiage changes on remove the center support bracket entirely. I also had to do quite a bit of trimming on the upper intercooler bracket to get it to fit right so may need to look at a design tweak there.