What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Meh, like I said, I'm just being anal about it. Fresh gives me a better sense of security. Is it false? Maybe. And, like I said, if I absolutely had to for some reason, I would, but if I did, that thought would always be in the back of my mind

 

I agree with replacing the bolts, however, technically, the Toyota service manual does not specify the need to replace them (i.e. one time use) like say head bolts.

 

The spiker test thread mentions reusing.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/page-3

 

You motherfuckers do what you want, I would replace them

 

You and everyone else around here lately, it seems

@notlikejohnny @Dakillacore y'all need to start a club.

Man, I sure would feel stupid if I snapped a bolt that woulda only cost me $15-20 to replace all 8 of... and it did hundreds of dollars in damage...

That said, I would probably re-install at least once if I torqued to spec initially.

 

I’ll probably replace them thanks for all the replies. It’s not about the money lol just a pain in the ass to get them.

 

I reused my factory ones when I replaced the OE for MOOGs. I didn't die and all but one torqued down nicely. I bought all new for the OEM replacements I just installed. I do feel better now, but they hold the new ones on just like the old ones did. If I needed to replace my LBJs in the next 5 years, I would reuse this set of OE bolts with zero reservations.

 

I'll get started on the t-shirts...

 

When I changed out my LBJs out I reused the bolts. But I made sure I changed them when I recently rebooted my CVs since i had to remove anyway. If I had to take them out again I probably would reuse once and then replace. Cheap insurance. Think I paid $20 for 8 from my local dealer, probably cheaper had I gone with Serra.

 

Alright, thanks. The website description mentions using them as a lift also. Only reason my ears perked up at that is my current dilemma on what to do for suspension upgrades. Since I haul a nearly 900 pound slide-in camper, I think I'm a pretty good candidate for HD leaf springs, even though I could get away with just airbags. So the front will need raising. I don't prefer lifts. I like how they look if done well, but for my trucks, I like a mostly stock look. Anyway. If I go HD leaf springs and keep my Sumo Springs, maybe with 900lbs on the leaf springs, they'll actually settle? Maybe I'll end up with just barely 1" lift? No idea. But I occasionally see "leveled" Tundras with the front end a little higher than the back end, and it's not the look I want. So...2883s with 4600s and a shim? Or is that basically the same as going 2884?

I don't know if anyone here who uses HD leaf springs and hauls a lot of weight has seen them settle?

Anyway it's got me thinking. I'm currently broke so it's all hypothetical for now. I start a new job Thursday and while I'm not about to be rich, my income will improve a bit.

 

Goddamn....old' girl has been through some shit lol

 

​

 

Looks like mine. Gonna take it apart?

 

Mine looked the same:

 

Growing up I worked at my dad's shop. Directly across the street is one of the more reputable Alternator/Starter rebuilders in SA. So I'm gonna give it to them and let them work their magic.

what did you do to clean it up? My is fucking CRUDDYYY lol

 

I mean, Purple Power will absolutely get that thing gleaming. But you'd want to separate it b/c you don't want that shit getting down inside there given the electronics inside.

But really, you should check and replace the brushes anyhow, so ...

 

Back and fixed. New bumper, new skit plate, new recovery hooks. Nice to replace the 19 year old plastic with new.

 

It was a busy day when I posted this but wanted to also ask the crowd. Not pictured (hidden by the OEM fasteners) is the pre-drilled and countersunk holes. I was/am tempted to do torx security bolts flush to the surface of the board for a clean snag-free surface I can drag stuff across. Or hex or regular torx could work too. The problem I encounter is, stainless 1/4" are all machine screws from what I've seen. I could try #12 instead of 1/4 but not sure that's big enough to thread into the plastic retaining clips. @shifty` any advice on this one? I can get a photo of what lies underneath the OEM fasteners but it's just what you would expect, a countersunk divot which would take a flat head fastener nice and tight and be super clean.

Ideally, 1/4 x 1" coarse thread flat head stainless torx sercurity sheet metal screws which is quite the odd fastener. Or maybe 3/4" long would do. I should measure the OEM ones.

 

Puddle lights wired to the cargo light switch

 

How you do dat

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1927#post-3532408

 

Made a lot more progress today. These things take a lot of welding. I keep dealing with a misfeed/jam in the wire feed mechanism that I think may be when my contact tips get crudded up.


Got it all tack welded together.



The center bar has to be angled out slightly to fit on the bumper and clearance the hood.



Angle-cutting freehand with a cutoff tool achievement unlocked. Don’t know how I’m going to do that in the side bars though that go over the lights. Probably a lot of error and error with a trial or two mixed in. Then I removed it from the truck and have been finishing all the exterior welds. There’s so much!



Almost done. Should finish welding tomorrow.



Really been a fun project.

 

You're so ready for a front diff.
@txagg could probably set you up

 

How heavy is that thang?

 

Looking good. You going with the full brushgard over the headlights or keeping it like that? Mine looks like yours. Don't forget the little gussets for the grill hoop.

 

J-shift tcase, ADD that I’ll wire to a switch, spindles, axles, driveshafts. Sure, I’m ready, just let me recoup my trans money first.

 

Deal. Rehab it up. Your truck is already nice, but just imagine it also being mean.
I love trying to spend your money for you, so here's my plan, rebuild the LSD, grab some new 4.30 gears, do the full 4wd swap, then throw in a shift kit, TVS1320, trans cooler, a couple URD pullies and 7th injector kit, plus meth+water injection, doug thorley headers, single 2.5" (iirc) catless exhaust, airaid modular intake tube, and ngk iridium plugs.
That sexy 5vz will be breathing fire.

 

Whenever I get around to swapping @metalpete 's 5100's onto my truck I'll have a 1/4" plastic shim you can have. 1/2" lean correction.

I also have a 3/8" one laying around now too, if anyone wants it. 5/8-3/4" lean correction.

 

Sounds good. Would you like to be the first to contribute to my go fund me? You know, mortgage, utilities, other bills, kids. They cost lots (most if not all) of my money