Help with greasing front 4WD driveshaft

Nope. 5th. 1GR-FE. Almost as good as the 2UZ. Actually, I'm happy to say that I own 2 of the best engines Toyota ever produced (IMO). Love them both, and probably never getting rid of either. And the trucks they're attached to ain't bad either.

 

I have a cheap grease gun. Always wondered if it was worth spending money for a better one.

 

Oh nice we have a ‘10 and we love it. I used to moderately wheel it before we got the truck, it did great for being 2wd!

 

Using it every 5K? I think so.

 

Agreed. Mine's an '11. They're so solid.

 

Thank you!

It doesn't look like this one fits around the zerk. Do you have to line it up with the little schrader valve in the zerk fitting? How does it work?

 

Pretty sure you stick the zerk-looking end of the fitting into your gun, then jab the needle into the ball on the truck's zerk and pump in fluid that way.

EDIT: Go back to the scAmazon page and look at the video on the product! Just confirmed, what I typed a sec ago is accurate.

 

That looks like a pretty tough fit, to get it to line up, but I think I'll give it a shot.

Thanks for all of the help. You guys are great, as always. I'm going to try the slip yoke again. Pump a bunch in there, get out and jump on the bumper a bunch, and then pump some more. I don't think I'll take that zerk off. Like I mentioned, I've already broken two bolts off on the Tundy just to do an oil change. About over that.

@shifty` - where did you find this one?

Edit: also shifty, reading through all of your replies here and elsewhere, I think the reason you don't have trouble on the zerk on the front driveshaft is your older grease gun with the slimmer fitting. The new ones (mine included) are girthier and just can't fit down around the zerk in the front.

 

Lock'n'Lube sells one. https://locknlube.com/products/push-on-90-grease-coupler

That said, you can probably find others. I'm not in love with the way that one functions, but it was a painful necessity on my C10, with some of the fittings it used and their lock. BEFORE I BOUGHT IT, I'd recommend using the other trigger-operated Lock'n'Lube unit others swear by, and say works on all of our zerks. Thise one: https://locknlube.com/collections/l...cknlube-grease-coupler?variant=32586284204116

 

Wait so do you recommend the last link now or not? Sorry, couldn't quite follow.

 

The 2nd link in my post is what a handful of people on this forum swear by. If you want firsthand testimonials, there are probably two dozen or so on this forum, but here's one from @JakeJake: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2156#post-3722077

Before I spent any money on the needle adapter, i.e. my first link, I'd go with the standard stubby lock n lube, i.e. my second link. Yes, it's spendy. But according to others on here you won't need another for the 1st gen, or any other gen. The 2nd+ gen guys swear by it too.

Save you a click on that link:

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Thank you. Yeah that costs almost as much as my grease gun and not fully convinced it will fit on the front driveshaft zerks.

Edit: is the "Lock n Lube" @JakeJake refers to the $33 coupler you linked above (second link)?

 

Ok, so you bought a cheap grease gun. But if you're going to blow off hundreds of cumulative years of mechanical knowledge of people on here who have been wrenching their whole lives and say it works, why bother asking?

You literally have one of the more mechanically inclined dudes, in that post, saying "This fits on every zerk". JakeJake alone's word would be good enough for me, but if you search the 1st gen forum for "lock n lube", you'll find at least half a dozen or more other members who use that exact tip and have zero issues with their OEM joints.

You lost me here.

 

My man, no need to be so combative. I'm not blowing anyone off. Just confirming before I spend $33. We are speaking past each other here a little bit. There are multiple "Lock n Lube" adapters. Many. Just confirming which one you (and others) are talking about. Is this the specific one @JakeJake and others are referring to?

I bought the Lincoln 1134 grease gun. It is not a cheap gun. It's a quality brand.

 

You're reading tone into my post. I'm not being combative. Asking a genuine question: Why ask for advice if you're going to blow it off?

Yes, the LnL you linked is the one. I have it on my shop bench downstairs because so many veteran mechanics spoke so highly of it on here, I wanted to see what the hype was about. I still haven't gotten around to putting it on my gun. I'm in process of rebuilding my backup gun, and was going to toss it on that. But several members on here with an immense amount of collective mechanical knowledge vouch for it. It's spendy, for a reason.

Lincoln was a quality brand 30 years ago. Current times, most Lincoln products I've seen are being made in mainland China, same as all the scAmazon crap, but with different colors/silkscreened names on it. The 1134 was originally made in the USA, but unless you specifically see branding saying "made in USA" on the product, or it was on the box, it's cheap Chinese garbage. It's the main reason I use vintage guns: They're easily rebuildable, and they're quality USA-made (or sometimes Taiwanese-made, which are still solid quality moreso than the mainland stuff).

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Yes. You depress the ball fitting in the end of the zerk with the needle and then pump the grease. Again, this is only on the ones that I can't get the normal coupler on, which I think in total is two.

 

Here's a few more Lock'n'lube stubby success stories, and one (Tundra2) with feedback on and longer unit (neither is the needle one) testimonials:

@Jack McCarthy - https://www.tundras.com/threads/ignorant-bast-ards-zerks.151565/#post-3778383

@Tundra2 - https://www.tundras.com/threads/ignorant-bast-ards-zerks.151565/#post-3778068

@atomicnugget - https://www.tundras.com/threads/help-with-zerk-fittings.129388/#post-3304138

@JakeJake - https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2156#post-3722077
+ JakeJake confirming stubby fits all 4WD driveshaft fittings - https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2156#post-3722103

@assassin10000 - https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2336#post-3720787

@FrenchToasty - https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2336#post-3720720

@TXTundraGuy23 - https://www.tundras.com/threads/04-dc-4wd-slip-yoke-greasing-problem.127260/#post-3249450

I'm sure there's more, I'm just copy/pasting out of the search results where the text clearly says something like, "this fucker works!"

 

Don’t quote me, I was just agreeing with JJ about how awesome they are. I’ve never used one on my tundra

 

I'm quoting you now.

And you can't stop me!

This feels like Friday Poll material, but it's sadly only Monday.

 

Thank you. Those are the same two I bet I have trouble with: front two on the front driveshaft.

Again man, I'm not blowing it off. Just asking for clarification before I buy yet another tool. That's all. Don't want to pay for something, wait for it to come, attach it, and then not have it work. Just want to get the job done right.

Thanks for the advice on the Lincoln gun. I will check it. It feels pretty well made. The head is cast aluminum. There are certainly better ones, but for my needs and for using it twice a year, I think it'll get the job done. Not everything made in China is crap. Certainly a lot is though.

 

The lock n lube gun is actually super awesome and made NH USA, it is spendy but worth it if your pumping lots of zerks. I’ll have to see what the new dept uses; probably the cheap crap and replacing it bi-yearly

 

Thank you. This is a great compilation. Again my only question on it was to confirm that the "Lock n Lube" one was

$33 LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.

this guy. There are multiple ones, as shown in this thread. There's a needle one too.

 

Nice tip! I found

$70 LockNLube Heavy-Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun. Includes our patented LockNLube® Grease Coupler (Locks On, Stays On, Won't Leak!) plus a high-quality 20" hose and in-line hose swivel

this one which has the gun AND the coupler. Sweet!

Honestly have to say it looks IDENTICAL to the Lincoln 1134, down to the knurling on the barrel. Maybe the rubber on the handle is different.

 

It quite possibly is. There are only a couple varieties of gun these days, with minor tweaks, different colors, different lettering/branding.

 

Yup, answered above. Same one I'm showing on my shop bench here:

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Per Shifty pic above, the Part # is

$33 GC81011 LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.

GC81011 which was reported by JakeJake over here for the standard shorty:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2156#post-3722368

I'd like to know more about the XL coupler but Tundra2 is the only person I've seen use it.

It would be nice to hear from and compare notes between @JakeJake and @Tundra2 to see if there were any difficulties getting on specific zerks between the standard or the XL.

 

Have you used this LnL gun [

$80 LNL252 LockNLube Professional Pistol-Grip Grease Gun

LNL252] at work? Are there specific models that you like and recommend? I have been thinking about getting a LnL setup and you are on of the few members I recall talking about the gun. The guns can be ordered with either the standard shorty or the XL version

 

While we're on the subject, are you all just chalking the front, jacking the rear, placing in 2WD neutral, and lining up your zerks and Fr & Rr driveshafts? Seems like all the zerks can be lined up in a row? Does that sound about right?

 

@Shifty ....Remind me what it is you like about the Palladium that you switched over from the VV Gray Moly?

 

I was able to get all of them with my transmission in gear and the parking brake on. Maybe I got lucky. The front driveshaft will spin freely with it 2H.

Also, it's "chocking" the wheels. No chalk involved.