What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yes.

 

Attaboy

 

Wheel spins freely, no grinding or anything. No cat noises when driving other than the wub wub underlying the tire road noise. Play is maybe 1/4" when I push at 12 oclock.
When I rotated my tires I also noticed the same front wheel had outside shoulder wear indicating alignment is needed, but only from that wheel. probably all this tying together. Hopefully caught it soon enough, tires have tons of tread left, only about 15k miles on them (Falken wildpeak AT3). Bearing, inner/outer TREs, alignment. Oh and the wife's van needs new tires before winter weather really arrives.

 

Exactly where I was with mine. I went 6125 up front and as small a lift as possible. Got about 1”.

 

Yeah, it's a fairly new clamp. I think I didn't have it in quite the right position. Will drive it more over the next few days then check again.

 

Lookin good. Like those wheels on FGTs. Like the factory version of my 8 holes.

 

When I replaced my front wheel bearings, I used OEM bearings, and I also swapped out the snap ring, and inner and outer oil seals. I did have 1 bearing "explode" on me, but the hub was nearly out of it when it let go and I was able to reuse both my hubs.

20T Harbor Freight press worked just fine. Could you buy one of those, use it, then sell it on Facebook or Craigslist when you're done? The loss on that would be much cheaper than paying labor to a shop to do it.

 

The 20T HF press goes on sale for around $170-200 several times a year. I used a 12T HF press that appeared to have the 20T I-beam frame and added a 20T jack to it that we had from lifting the house beams.

 

If you start a Harbor Freight email account, make a purchase and wait 4 months or so they will send you a 25% off “we miss you” coupon usually.

 

Just got off the phone with the shop, they quoted $600 parts and labor. Asked about the parts, they said their agreement is with Carquest, and they sourced National bearings (China?). I said I prefer OEM if they could do that, they said they could but that only is a 12 month part only warranty. If I went with theirs its 2 years/24k miles parts/labor covered. Unsure which way to go.

The redneck in me says yes, but the "this is your only means of transportation right now don't mess around" says no . I'll consider it.

 

Do not use the china bearings in your truck. KOYO bearings and OEM seals. Warranty means nothing, service life is what I’m interested in. The China bearings fail at 27 months, you’re screwed. Your OEM lasted 20 years.

 

I once bought lifetime warranty brake pads from Autozone. They lasted 12k miles, I took them back, they gave me some more. I was back 12k miles later. Did not get another set. Have no desire to change the brakes every 12k miles and they kept my wheels black with dust. Have lifetime warranty Advanced Auto CV axles on my truck rn. They last about 3 years and the boots disintegrate. On my 3rd set. The warranty makes you feel warm and fuzzy one minute, then you’re crawling around cussing, greasy and sweaty swapping the parts out. Again.

 

Yep, I got them from Ourisman Toyota. They're no longer available for first gen Tacomas, which is what I had for almost 10 years before buying the Tundra. When I saw they were still available for the Tundra, I jumped on them. I'm sure stock is limited.

 

Solid points. Reminds me of that Tommy Boy scene. Going to order the bearing from Yota Shop, about $80 shipped. Their seals are slightly more expensive than direct from Toyota or TPD though, going to try and source some. Can't drop the truck off until next week anyway, so I have some delivery time to play with.

 

And this is why I love this site. Thanks to shifty recommending Serra Toyota elsewhere, got the seals, snap ring, and outer TREs for both sides for $157 shipped to my door, verse $210 at my local dealer with store pickup.

 

Ah, I understand that. I have multiple vehicles, so I was able to take my time working on mine... And you should use the OEM bearings. The originals lasted this long, right? Don't cheap out on some that barely last longer than their warranty.

Yep, I know the feeling. I bought similar brakes (and calipers too) from Autozone in the past, and changing my brake pads (and calipers) became an annual thing on that car.

 

Actually, just thought before I hit submit, does anyone know if the OEM outer tie rod ends come with the castle nut? If not, is this correct? Castle Nut #90171-14042 | Autoparts.toyota.com Assume so considering it shows the rack and TREs in the diagrams.

 

Any time you're looking at EPC - and I'm not sure which you're using, I'm using the EPC-DATA one from the "how to find parts" sticky - you'll see one of two things. I'll post them both here.

Multi-item display. See for 45046 and 45047 here, both for each tie rod, has a 3-prong fork coming off it, and there's one top-level number, with two lower-level numbers? If you click the 95381-03225 number, if ONLY gives you the cotter pin. If you click the 45046A number, it ONLY gives you the castle nut. If you click the top-level 45046 number, it gives you the part number for the package containing everything those three lines point at: Cotter, castle, outer tie rod.

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Boxed items. Sometimes in diagrams, you'll see Toyota box certain items in. Inside the box, you can click any number to only get that specific component. If you click the number outside the box, the number pointing to the box, it includes EVERYTHING inside the boxed area. For example, if you click on 44210 or 44240 in this EPC diagram, you'll get the part number for EVERYTHING shown inside that box, all the little parts. BUT if you only needed, say, the parts related to the worm-drive looking assembly with the 4 donut spacers inside, you could click "44201" and get just that. Or, if you only needed the spacer parts, you could click "44201B" to get that single part number. Hopefully this all makes sense. Parts lookup info for the tool I use is HERE.

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Makes total sense now, thanks Shifty! I was relying on what autoparts.toyota was showing, and probably spent way too much time on this than needed. I did order the whole kit it would seem now (45046 & 45047) and added the castle nuts in unnecessarily. So I emailed Serra to see if they could remove them from the order before shipping.

Edit: Called them and they got me squared away, it is the kit and they're going to refund me the castle nuts.

 

Is there a reason you went with Michigan Truck Spring? Over General Spring, ATS etc.

 

I did go with ATS 90-221HD, same as General spring I believe. Haven’t heard of Michigan Truck Springs

 

Ah! Ok. Yeah I guess they all use the same part number. I googled 90-221HD, since that's all you had in one of your posts, and got truckspring.com

Funny.

 

Do we know a rough price for these?

 

Link is in my signature, direct from ATS, here: https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...vy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-both-sides-90-221hd/

You need to order (2) if memory serves, so $437.

 

Knuckles look I great shape. Do I reuse the hubs? Thought I saw somewhere to get whole knuckle and bearing and hub assembled. But think just need to press out and in some koyo bearings right? Seems like I've seen Sue from A1 and Timmy and others do this.

Sounds like time to rotate tires. Love to hear what you decide on parts. Proactively planning front bearing swaps myself...did rear already.

 

Been waiting about a year for this to be $200 again...

 

My quote was in regards to gussetted spindles with bearings from Jim.

 

I'll stop overthinking and go with ATS. They seem to be the only one clearly offering the full hardware package along with the springs. Seems easier.

 

Unless you do serious off-roading, the ATS HD's are a great value and their customer service is excellent.

 

At some point, even if a coupon doesn’t come along, it’s $50 more to grab it and save hundreds in labor.