2024 (3rd Gen) / Non Hybrid / JBL Audio - Upgrade thread

Using their vehicle compatibility guide for a 2022 Tundra with JBL brings up this page: AutoHarnessHouse.com - Vehicle Audio Compatibility Database - The BEST source of vehicle audio data on the Web!

On this page, they list a 28 pin and the 8 (10) pin harness. Upon further investigation and reading the page you linked, I see that : the OEM amplifier will perform volume control and equalization functions that will not normally be performed in an aftermarket amplifier. Simply put, you won't be able to control the volume in your vehicle unless both the amp and heaudnit are installed and working in tandem.

That's the first time I've encountered a setup like this. If not for that, and in most systems, you'd be able to use the 8 pin, cut two of the wires, T off long pigtails and route them through the dash and to your new amp location for signal. Found a Taco Tunes video posted a month ago that shows wiring using the 30 and 24 pin harnesses post amp to send signal to an LC2i.
2022+ Toyota Tundra How to add subwoofer amplifier to a JBL Equipped Tundra Easy Plug & Play Setup. (youtube.com)

Toyota can kick rocks for building the system like that. Having the amp do volume control instead of the head unit is just plain annoying.

 

This is 100% why there is so much confusion around this type of setup.

Being able to have control over the bass, but not totally impacting other frequencies in the truck.

 

It's just such a silly way to do things. In every other vehicle I've ever owned or worked on, you could tap signal anywhere and be fine. Having the amp control volume/equalization rather than the head unit is just plain silly.

 

100%

 

Completely agree. Definitely a "what the hell were they thinking?" type thing.

 

Looks like Im ordering a harness too. Figured there was a reason why TT used those wires.

 

Now the question is, which is better? In terms of diagram provided or color coded. AAH is cheaper for sure.

AAH or TT?

 

What AAH harness are we talking about?

 

30-pin Subaru Harman Kardon and/or Toyota JBL Amp jumper - Splice Harness to add Subwoofer (autoharnesshouse.com)

You'll need both of them, which comes out to $93+Tax/Shipping -

TT is $139.98+tax/Shipping

 

"Need" is subjective I suppose. The ONLY reason you would need to have the 24-pin harness is to avoid splicing into the factory harness for switched 12V+. That's the only wire that gets used in that harness.
I wanted to have the ability to go back to stock without a trace. No wire tapping/splicing into factory harness at all. So I opted for both.

The ship notification from AHH was in my inbox today. Hopefully I'll have them in a few days and I'll report back here.

 

You could skip the 24 pin and get an Add-A-Circuit for much cheaper. Additionally, most amps nowadays have signal sensing turn on, although it's been kind of hit or miss for me on some amps.

AHH is $68 for the 30 pin, $25 for the 24 pin.
Taco Tunes is $49 for the 30 pin, $40 for the 24 pin.

Not including shipping, both options are about the same unless you were to get the 30 pin from TT and do an add-a-circuit for $5-$10.

The $139 price listed on TT is a little deceiving, that's the price for the LC2i Pro only, with harnesses and LC2i Pro they have it for $280.

LC2i Pro vs regular LC2i main difference is in frequency response, LC2i Pro 20Hz - 50kHz, LC2i 33Hz-100kHz. For a sub amp I'd say the Pro is worth the extra $30 for the lower bass response, also comes with a remote knob.

Could also go the DSP amp route and skip the LOC + Amp setup, or rather than combine them into one, since just like most new amps having some form of signal sensing turn on, most new amps also accept high level inputs so you're really only using an LC2i for the AccuBass function. Kicker Key mono amp does auto-dsp that's supposedly pretty solid, Sony has a 6 channel XM-GS6DSP you could use just the sub channels of in bridged mode. Cheapest route is definitely the Kicker Key, the Sony would be about the same cost as an LC2i Pro + mono amp, and then higher end the AudioControl D-4.800 bridged. Really depends what kind of subs one's looking to add.

 

Just ordered the TT harness and lc2i pro. I had an lc2i in another car and loved it. Gotta order an epicenter and then off to look at subs and talk to my box builder

 

It's been mostly "miss" for me; decided to stick with remote 12V for power up.

@eddiefromcali:
Look at this guy over here that has "people."

I had a convo with MY box builder just yesterday....
Self, I said, get off your lazy ass and finish your sub box!

 

Lol....there's some stuff I rather pay for. Takes skill to pull this off

https://www.tundras.com/threads/202...jbl-audio-upgrade-thread.149006/#post-3726254

 

Made quite a bit of progress on the sub box in the last few days. Hoping to have it finished up this weekend with the exception of a terminal cup/binding post connectors. Thought I had an extra one in the leftovers box, but no, everything BUT that.
It will be along the lines of eddie's previous effort from the standpoint of.... shall we say, definitely function over form. I won't be spending a bunch of time making it pretty when it's just going to live covered up under the rear seat. I'll post a pic anyway once it's done.

Got the two harnesses from AHH. They look decent enough. They tapped the wires I think I asked for....gotta double check against color codes for 2022+ Tundra JBL speaker outputs. The pigtails they attached are changed over to what I believe are the "industry standard" front/rear-left/right pairs of white-gray-green-purple, each with a mating black-striped wire, so 8 wires total. Would have rather they left them the same as O.E. colors but there we are.

 

@eddiefromcali: Did you get your TT harness yet?

Is this it?

I'd like to see which speaker outputs they have the pigtails on and compare to what I have going on with the AHH harness. Can't really determine much from their picture.

Thanks.

 

I did...ill snap some pics tomorrow. I have both harnesses and lc2ip in the truck

 

A couple things before going further.
In addition to everyone in this thread:

A big shout out and Thank You to @MaxPayne3 , @KrissyMattAlpha , @raylo , and all the other fine folks that have contributed in the NON-JBL thread. here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/3rd-gen-non-jbl-sound-system-upgrade-info.136862/

There is a treasure trove of useful information in that thread that I will be applying to my audio upgrades. I would recommend to anyone that is DIY-ing their JBL system to read there also.

 

@BlackNBlu

 

Sweet!

Did they provide instructions on how to connect to it the LOC? Obviously plug and play into the factory Amp.

 

They did not. Their videos show how to connect though

 

Observations and questions on 30 pin harnesses; AHH vs. TT:


Here is my 30 pin jumper harness from AHH. (26 of 30 positions populated.)
(I did not take a pic of my AHH 24 pin harness. With the exception of slightly more wire length, it appears to be EXACTLY the same as @eddiefromcali 's TT 24 pin. All black wires, and a single red breakout pigtail.)

Back to the 30-pin. What I am questioning is the color-coding on the wires and the differences in which wires are broken out between TT (eddie's) and AHH (mine).
What I assumed to be O.E. colors on the jumper portion of the harness, (but now have serious doubts) AND the broken out pigtail wire colors. I'm sure there's reason to this rhyme somewhere, but the colors look all over the place.

I don't suppose anyone has an actual pinout diagram for the 30-pin JBL harness?

 

Holding this for future musings on "budget" 3-way component sets.....
https://www.precisionpower.com/product/p-65c3/

 

Sorry I'm jumping around a bit here guys.
This is more for reference and explanation than anything else:
I found a 6 year old YT video on a Rockford Fosgate DSP setup that does a pretty good job explaining what is going on with the Toyota JBL system and why the H/U and amp are linked.
It uses a RAM "premium" audio system as an example, but I'm betting ours is very similar, if not the same. (Using databus signals from H/U to amp.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCe_i1iie1w

 

The fact they didn't use the same colors at least, that would drive me crazy. This is why I wondered how detailed their instructions are, as how do you know which wire goes to what?

 

Yeah, they don't use the conventional speaker wire color

 

Do you know where (which speaker circuit) your L/R(?) pair pigtails are coming from?

 

TT ftw on this -- I rather spend a little more just because they are thinking ahead and user-friendly aspect.

 

As long as all you want to add is a sub....it'll work.