06 tundra wont start after engine pull/bypass kit

Where is the knock sensor located?

 

Under the intake forward of the starter. You should be able to see it with a flashlight looking between the runners.

 

It’s a bit harder with ‘05-‘06. Picture proof of that with a snake cam over here, it’s a mess with the VVTi intake and SAIS pump: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2097#post-3660858


My P0328 saga is outlined over here in the saga and replies I’ve quoted: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3684550/

Not a fun code to chase down, P0328. Best thing to do is clear codes and see if/when it returns (edit: more info on when mine pops below). Seems I found a people running our 2UZ-FE 4.7L V8 who’ve had cases like mine, where it’s an occasional throw of the code, and sadly one or two who replaced the harness and the sensor and still no joy. A few people just replaced the plug (re-pin), or replaced the last 6” of plug and found joy. One had to replace the entire sub-harness for everything under the manifold. I’m just living with it and clearing the code when it comes up. I’ve had the truck 5 years now, it started about 2 years ago, I’ve seen it half a dozen times. Every time but one, it always popped when the truck is dead cold, within 4/6 blocks of the house, when accelerating from a dead stop in a way that exceeds 2,500rpm, i.e. I’m jumping on it a bit more than usual.

 

When i clear the code it comes back instantly, ill have to pull the intake again lol dang!

 

Sucks! I need to get off my ass and do it too, but I've been wanting to look up the OEM part number for the harness and see how painful it is to replace with new. And I'd want to wrap it with rodent-deterrent tape before install. I basically want to refresh everything - sensor, that last segment of harness, I just don't want to need to go back under the manifold again. Hell, I'd be tempted to replace the SAI pump too!

The sensor you're hunting is going to be in this spot where the red circle is but with the SAI pump and all the extra clutter in the '05-'06 trucks you can't see it. So I'm also posting another pic below this one of @bmf4069's earlier-year truck without the emissions crap to highlight its position.

I bet the connector is loose, tab broke, or one of the wires pulled back. I'm sure it's just something stupid like that. IIRC, the computer sets the P0328 code specifically if it loses connection with the sensor for more than 1-2 seconds.

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And here is BMF's, you can see the bank 2/passenger knock sensor under the coolant crossover pipe in this pic too. But you're interested in bank 1, circled in red.

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Dude, you are the man, thank you. I'll take the intake off later today and check it out.

 

You type that so casually, like, "Yeah man, I'll just pop the top on it and poke around in thurrrrr" as if it's a 5 minute affair

I admire your attitude, brother. I'm like, if it'll take me 30 minutes just to get access, And another 30 to button it up, I need 3-4 weeks of planning and prep. But my truck is my only vehicle, b/c I don't want to borrow the family SUV my better-3/4 is usually driving.

 

At this point I bet it does take me less than five minutes to remove the intake from a completely assembled motor lol I think this will be removal number 6 .Since I started this whole process lol

Imma time it on my fitbit now lol

 

@Shifty - dang you’re right about VVT being more difficult. I can look between runner and see it on my 2000. I have to replace the gaskets on my coolant crossover pipes and been putting it off because pulling the manifold is a pain.

 

11 mins off
This plug was tucked out of sight and just completly not plugged in

 

That looks like SAIS pump

 

Nah look below still unplugged in pic

Still have a p0051 code though everything seems to be comnect at o2 sensors, bank 2 sensor one( i assume is passenger side closest to header) do i just replace this sensor to fix that code? Wouldnit go bad from sittong for 18 months?

 

Doubt sitting would kill the upstream a/f or O2. But I've seen crazier.

 

I think i got it!

On to the
steering rack
Interior deep clean
Brake booster - i replaced booster - master -front pads and rotors, rear drums shoes and cylinders. Bled it and had a mechanic bleed it but pedal has no feel to it extremely soft, i am able to drive and stop but i dont trust it.

 

Dirrrttty carpet from last 3 owners

 

Soft pedal is ultra common if the rears are not adjusted correctly AND/OR your parking brake isn't adjusted correctly AND/OR you have air bubble stick in the LSPV (load sensing prop valve) which, if present, should also be bled. LSPV is here (pic is shot toward the driver side, shooting from passenger shock), its bleeder points at the rear driver wheel.

Also, don't try to pedal-bleed these trucks, if you do, don't make the mistake of pushing pedal to the floor. You're best off to either pressure bleed (ideal) or vacuum bleed (acceptable).

If you need any more info on these, ask, but before you do, READ THIS STICKY POST.

 

I did pedal bleed the tundra, did i mess something up when i did that?

 

Maybe, maybe not. If you and/or your helper smashed the pedal to the floor repeatedly, you may very well have blown out the seals. This example, from the past 48 hours. That example will give you most of the tips/pointers you need to read, I think.

If you can, vacuum bleed. Better yet, pressure bleed or reverse-bleed.

But more than anything, be aware of four things:

1. Proper rear/drum brake adjustment on these trucks is critical to proper braking, I linked the master sticky thread on that in my previous reply. Especially getting the star adjusters dialed in correctly, and the parking brake arm needs to be configured and set proper, some adjustments are very fine.
2. Your parking brake linkage needs to be intact, functional, dialed-in, NOT FROZEN in order for your brakes to remain properly functioning as the shoes wear (in theory, setting/releasing the P-brake should adjust the shoes down if #1 in this list is satisfied).
3. Because it can hold air bubbles/crap, you MUST bleed the LSPV (if present) while bleeding your brakes on these trucks, whether you bleed it first then start at the passenger rear wheel after OR you start at rear passenger wheel then do LSPV and move on to driver rear, pass front, driver front.
4. If you've lifted your truck at any point, you need to adjust up the LSPV (if present) linkage rod/armature to compensate, and/or install an LSPV relocation bracket.

 

Somehow never got back to this til now,

I will start this process next week , i have put around 5k miles on truck but brakes are so sketchy.

I did take it to 2 shops and they said they are bled, but when it rains my abs kicks in so easy and it makes it uncontrolable.

 

I think the big thing for you will be re-bleeding the LSPV. Then dialing in the adjuster until the rear drums are basically barely dragging should get you there.

 

Yeah i did lift truck 2" in front and 1.5" in rear as well. I just looked under and it def has that lspv still factory positioning

 

You may want to see the “rear brake adjustment” sticky thread on that subject.

If you lift your rear wheels off the ground, and you spin your wheel, it should turn but shouldn’t be able to complete more than a quarter turn or so. If you spin it and it keeps going, your rears are NOT adjusted properly, and that’s probably the biggest part of your issue.

 

Yeah my front pads started to grind today after only 12k miles, nees tonfogure this nrake system out! Lol


Also has code now for sensor bank 2 sensor 2. Alresdy replsced both O2 senors with bosch. Still popin code

 

This post was supposedly edited yesterday at 6:18pm but I have my doubts

 

Grinding because there's no pad material left, or grinding because you did something unnecessary while replacing the pads, like remove the caliper (which you never need to do to swap the pads), and you didn't tighten down the two caliper mounting bolts? Are you seeing unusual wear on the front or the back of the rotor? Is the wear on the inner and outer pad identical? There's so many things you can screw up with something as simple as brakes on these trucks.Pads can be swapped in 10-15 minutes per side. Takes me just as long to remove and re-torque the wheels than to swap pads.

What's the specific code? Any reason you used Bosch instead of Denso? You didn't do something unwise, like order the Bosch on scAmazon or fleaBay, did you?

 

Well i did remove calipers, dont see any issue there, it was grinding cause no material left. My rear brakes arnt doing anything.

Just removed my drums and i dont see any thing installed incorrectly. It was very hard to remove drums but they didnt seem to be dragging at all when spinning in neutral in the air.
Going to tighten them till they drag and then adjust the lspv

I got bosch bc i thought they were oem

 

See pics

 

Am I crazy or isn’t this cable supposed to be going inside the guide? That’s one problem I can see in this tiny ass phone screen. And that adjuster looks super far out to me considering how much shoe material you have left (tons). Also is that adjuster seated correctly? I can’t tell on my tiny screen. Is this passenger side or driver, can’t tell. I’m assuming the adjuster isn’t installed backwards. Is the wheel cylinder ok? The boot looks janky dry and twisted.

 

Okay well maybe it isn't correct, does anyone have a diaghram on how it should be positioned, that is passenger side.

Should i just buy all new and start fresh?;

 

I would start by trying to get things correctly installed, first and foremost. I wouldn't proceed until you're certain the brakes are assembled correctly. Maybe the video below will help you with getting that sorted? Note also where to apply grease, between the shoes and backing plate. I like Sil-Glyde for that.

This thread has a lot of info in it on rear drum brakes and a couple of peculiar adjustments some folks have trouble with. Read it in full: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

Also note, if you're lifted in the rear, and you haven't installed an LSPV relocation bracket, there's a solid chance your rears aren't even grabbing, or not as much as they should, but until you get them at least installed properly, with all routing correct, there's no point touching that stuff.

I'd personally install a new Aisin wheel cylinder while you're at it, this is the part you need, one for both sides. Summit doesn't have in stock rn, I bet RockAuto has it. You'll need to bleed the rears (and LSPV) after.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFcFMmzZ7y4​