What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Even without being tuned, yes. Kings also have about .5” more travel too

 

Go change your coolant Rey

 

Been there done that lol- or am I waiting for an excuse to build a 6.8 stroker....

 

no excuse needed... what are you waiting for... Also dibs on your super charger set-up as you will want all new for the 6.8l stroker

 

LOL no excuse needed is true but the internal accounting department may say differently. It would be an interesting kitchen photo with a motor on a stand lol

 

What flares ya got there Junior?

 

Theyre from ebay a few years ago but no longer being made. There's a thread discussing trying to find them more recently so maybe they'll pop up again https://www.tundras.com/threads/best-fender-flares-for-2017-tundra.81986/page-4

 

Best looking flares I've seen for a 2nd / 2.5 gen, I would have added these to mine and added aftermarket wheels years ago if I would've found them. They look factory.

 

As @Tundra234 said: A little more airflow and a brushless and quieter motor

 

Csn you point me in the direction of said mod?

 

Just search ARB rear diff breather in Google.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-rear-differential-breather-mod.5253/

 

Yeah sorry I'm under the weather. I know exactly what that is.

 

That would be the guide I used.

 

What was your process on the install.I just got mine in the mail

 

Looks awesome....how did you get it tucked under the shifter trim?

 

Pull the trim, remove knob, slide boot, re install trim and knob done. Pull the boot so there’s slack for shifting

 

Trans t-stat bypass, new antenna base, ordered a short antenna, drove it.

 

Got another nice gift after washing truck from the fab shop that installed my LT kit - battery light on. Alternator output was fine but stuck at 13.6v - 13.8v, negligible AC/no AC pulses at the battery terminals so figured regulator was done. Didn’t feel right so started checking…, sensor wire had fluctuating 0v - 6v, continuity test failed from alt-s fuse to 6 pin connector at the fuse box. Both green wires were nicked when cutting out the inner fenders for the secondary shock hoop, the one strand connecting the alt-s finally crapped out after 4 years.

 

Well that’s annoying

 

If it makes you feel any better my truck has been away for over 2 weeks and has been relocated to a different frame chiropractor...can you guess where @Vizsla ?

 

Don’t know anyone that has been able to find a frame shop that can do what Al figured out. FWIW, he told me after initial inspection frame measured out perfect, but then listened to me and looked at my alignment logs. Definitely thought I was nuts for a minute.

 

I mean you’re nuts…just not about the wayward self misaligning truck. Lol

 

New tires and a replacement passenger caliper.

 

5/8 -11 QTY 8 63305 FROM LOWES. Not a bad mod to do but remove grille and the pieces under headlights and remove the 3 screws holding bumper to bottom pan and the pesky things that I hate the most fender liner to bumper. I always break the long plastic things. No more rubbing at full lock! Wonderful and only under $5. I also installed the brackets for the up and coming 32" light bar.
53883-0C050 <<<<------- these i hate! Who designed them?

 

$45 Nilight LED Light Bar 32" 180W 12600LM Spot Flood Combo Driving Lamp Roof Bumper Off Road Lights LED Work Light Pods for Van Camper Wagon Car Pickup Golf Cart ATV UTV SUV Truck Boat 4x4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNYCJQW

something to add to the list at the bottom of the page here. very helpful!

 

They're a nightmare.

 

Realizing that when you pay for powder coating, it’s a freaking thin layer.

 

You need to find a better powder coater. It isn't usually a thin layer at all.

 

This was actually from RCI when I purchased it 2 years ago…