Parts list for adding OEM trans cooler to 5.7l

I see the same thing as you on mine. Was going to look into getting the cooler but after monitoring close to a year I rarely saw anything over 205-208. I’m good with that so just leaving it be and will do the drain and fills as necessary

 

One year later: the transmission temps were not concerning since the cooler has been installed. Purchased the same kit for wife's 22 Sequoia.

 

Completely agree on the OEM hose clamps. The inlet and outlet hoses for the thermostat are heavy duty (read: thicker) than the standard hose I used on the cooler end. I can not get them over the nipples on the cooler. Drove all over trying to find some spring clamps Sat eve and no auto parts or hardware around me has any spring clamps but for maybe fuel line. Not really enough room to get a screw clamp in there either.
Now my truck sits while I wait on OEM clamps to come in as none of the dealers around me have them in stock.
Suggest you get at least 4 OEM clamps part number 90466-16004.
X
PS: None of the Toyota dealers within 100 miles had them in stock so I tried a Lexus dealer and they have them overnight.
Hope this helps someone in the future

 

any chance you’d sell me a bracket? Also what cooler did you go with?

 

Yeah, I can cut/weld another one. Most of work is to prepare my metal shop setup anyways, as I have no permanent one yet. Cutting/welding itself is minutes. And I found my old template for 2019 Tundra.

The cooler is

$163 Derale 13403 Series 10000 Stacked Plate Transmission Oil Cooler 19 Row,Black

Derale 13403:

 

Just mount it right up against the AC condensor - it will work the best that way with lots and lots of airflow. The pic above shows all the parts (cushions) too to protect the cooler and condensor.

 

You saying there is no need for a mount then?

 

Was recently reading a thread on replacing the radiator on an older Tundra with the Mashimoto radiator. https://www.mishimoto.com/performance-aluminum-radiator-toyota-tundra-2007.html#key-descriptions . This includes a transmission cooler in the radiator like the before 2020 Tundras. The radiator is $500 but could be done with the other required parts for less than the Genuine Cooling system kits. Any thoughts on why this would or would not work with 2020+ Gen 2.5 Tundras? Would solve concerns about brackets needed to install a separate transmission cooler.

 

I think you would want two separate coolers to do their own job, not mixing them together. Radiator is already doing double duty to cool whatever it needs, even if Mishimoto radiator can triple duty as a transmission cooler, I am not sure if I want that risk, if it blows it blows both.
On another note, I did talk to Mishimoto and unfortunately, they don't transmission cooler for Tundra and although they didn't outright say it, they are not recommending using the radiator double duty as a transmission cooler.

 

You can do yours with Home Depot aluminum angle bars, etc. It just happened that I have a plasma cutter and welder. I did a mounting bracket a decade ago for my older car, using angles from HD, it is still intact.

 

I think an integrated transmission cooler is better than nothing, and 1/2 cost of that geniune cooling kits for $1300. I’m running temps of 237 on an empty bed in texas summer. mike sweers is a scum bag engineer for doing this.

“Our strategically designed 2-row core provides a 70% increase in coolant capacity, along with a 12% increase in core volume and 15% increase in external fin surface area. Those improvements result in increased heat transfer and overall improved cooling efficiency. To ensure this unit is a bolt-on fit, we've incorporated an internal automatic transmission cooler which makes install a breeze and ensures transmission fluid temperatures are properly regulated”

 

I know what it said, I read that but had doubts so I reached out to them.
But, that's also about a year ago, did the product change without changing the list? I have no idea.
Feel free and brave and go this route and let us know if it works.
If it does, maybe that's a cheaper way to go about it without the bracket.

 

Why you bother with reduced main radiator heat capacity? The heat exchanger between transmission and engine is still in place. When ATF is colder than coolant, transmission is effectively cooling the engine. And this seems to be happening most of the time, because with the transmission cooler reintroduced the ATF temp is bouncing around 180 F, while coolant temp is about 202. Also liquid to liquid heat exchanger is more efficient than liquid to air.

 

Awesome write up. We do many offroad climbs that’s caused my temp light to come on. I’ve been trying to order the Genuine Cooling Systems product but they’re always out of stock.

I’ll be sourcing all parts (except for the cooler) through my local dealer. I’ve learned my lesson with EBay counterfeit parts. I’m sure there are legit sources on EBay but I don’t want to find out that I’ve been had while in the middle of nowhere.

I’ll share my experience after installing. Thanks again OP.

 

Doing drain&fill after 11k with the cooler and 20k since previous d&f: ATF is red and transparent. Going to install an inline magnetic filter in cooler return line. Anyone knows which one is a return line, red or blue?

 

QUOTE="Virtue157, post: 3679073, member: 113171"]You saying there is no need for a mount then?[/QUOTE]

Right - not via a bracket anyway. Most external coolers come with mounting kits using rubber bushings to protect the AC condenser - so the cooler goes right in front - against the condenser will achieve the maximum amount of cooling (especially when vehicle is not moving) using the engine's fan.

The cooler's instructions allow for multiple ways to mount the cooler and they estimate the % efficiency of each - the one with the least is mounted away from the condenser - heat will build up especially on continuous stop-go situations. In those cases I recommend a fan using a 5 pin relay. I also added an 'over-ride Off' switch inside to shut the fan off when it really isn't needed like winter. With that setup the highest temps you'll see will be in low 200s (during repeated SGs) and even then only for a few seconds until the acceleration speed stabilizes. Normal 80mph cruising will yield 170s.

 

I couldn't remember once and next time I drove around, just touched the hoses to see which one was cooler.

 

FYI, for those who are trying to save some money on this kit without running hard lines or even some of the OE hoses, essentially @snivilous has made a post of him installing a trans-cooler on a clients vehicle with just the thermostat body and the cooler with about 15-20ft worth of rubber hoses.

This immensely cuts down cost to run a trans-cooler.

I’m waiting for my thermostat to come from
JP - got it on eBay for $130. So now I just need to pick up some 3/8 hoses to return the lines, and 2 quarts of ATF fluid.

I picked up the

$58 Hayden 679 Universal 11” Rapid-Cool Add-On Transmission Cooler to Enhance Cooling (not for direct replacement of the factory unit)

Hayden 679 and that was only about $50.

 

Yeah. Looks like I marked them right. Waited till 100 F to level the fluid and shut the truck. The thermostat didn't have enough temp to open, but upper hose was warm while lower - cold.

 

Can anybody confirm this bolts to factory locations on a 2021 tundra? Pictures if possible please.

 

Posted it in Sequoia forum a few weeks ago, reposting here just for reference. Made another one for wife's 2022 Sequoia. It came with no factory cooler, too. Thicker gauge plate, Magnefine inline filter, prefilled with ATF w/o messing with transmission plugs.

I superlove Gen2 hood that swings up along with the grill! Makes everything so much easier.

 

The kit?

 

Hopefully this saves someone some time. SendCutSend was about $50 for this bracket cut out of .135 steel. Xometry or some others might be even cheaper. More details are in the subsequent posts.

Transmission Cooler Bracket

 

Do you have a link to the magnetic filter you put on.

 

Magnefine 3/8"

$26 Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787KWZPS

 

how much hose length did you guys buy for this setup?

 

Going from where the hard lines end to the cooler I was around 6ft for inlet/outlet combined. I’d grab an extra foot or so.

 

I got 10 ft:

$20 6AN 10Ft(3.1M) Universal Braided Oil Fuel Line Hose Stainless Steel Nylon for 3/8" Tube Size

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y61FZBX

 

Thinking about this. Straight from Japan

 

With it coming from Japan I think you should be fine. The white fabric on the intent/outlet hoses is unique and I think would be an odd item to counterfeit.