Good sub box for 2 10 inch subs behind bench seat

Tell us about your headunit choice. That DMH-1500NEX is a standard 7" double din headunit but you mentioned the screen being way too tiny??? What Boss unit did you settle on? Model? Is it one of those larger 10" headunits?

 

Boss model BE920WCPA
it has internal low pass filter too. That's about all I know I need to take it somewhere to get the wiring harness set up

 

Pardner I hate to tell you but it looks like you've replaced a Pioneer 7 inch double din with a Boss 7 inch double din there.......

 

This is why you don't make impulse purchases on lunch break

 

LOL

 

I'm ready to do the install today but I can't for the life of me find out online which audio channel the door tweeters use. Do they use the rear channel if it's a single cab? I genuinely can't find this information and I don't want to damage the door speakers or tweeters

 

Door speaker circuit is off the front channel. It starts as two wires in the dash, once it passes into the door, it hits a special Y connector that forks the connection (with some added electronics, wired inline) out with 2 wires to the tweeter, two to the midbass.

 

Oh and this is what it looks like behind the door panel, for AC/RC trucks with tweeter.

Main bundle comes in (red pipeline here). The two wires for front door speakers fork out of main bundle (red dashed line).

From there, it goes attached to the splitter harness (pink circled connection), and from there that harness forks out to the woofer connector (yellow circle) and the tweeter connector (orange circle). Crutchfield makes plug-and-play adapters that'll let you plug into the orange circle and yellow circle connectors, they're like $2-3/ea or something, they usually ship them free with any stereo/speaker purchase, I believe.

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I bought an 02 manual dash with the tachometer and it won't work? It seems like there's a connector that my truck simply doesn't have. The ebay listing I bought from is here https://www.ebay.com/itm/1162854521...Gf6x4kTSnW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Any help?

 

Did your truck have a tach?

 

No, that's why I bought one with a tach

 

Gonna need to crack open the EWD and figure what wire you're missing, and where it connects to, so you can add that wire.

 

Damn ok that sounds like a lot of work for a tach

 

Lot of work for a tach, attack it if you're attached to the idea. You may Google around and see if someone else has been here. I can only imagine they have been.

 

I'm trying to think of the V6 manual guys to tag them, but I'm drawing a blank.

 

Bruh after putting the old cluster back in now none of the interior lights work except the clock, head unit, and check engine light. The interior ceiling light didn't work anyways. What the hell could I have messed up

 

Check the Dome fuse.

Your tach issue may have something to do with your truck being an 04 and the cluster being an 02. Probably want a 03 or 04 cluster but without checking wiring diagrams and plugs and such you'd probably be on your own. There haven't been that many people to do the cluster swap.

 

The subs absolutely slam, Ive been driving every day with them in the back and they just make everything amazing. the stock door speakers suck but a little eq fixed that for me, and the tweeters sound nice, i only have one issue. when i turn the volume up the amp clips, the subs shake my windows but i think the amp is clipping. now im running 4 gauge wiring for the positive and ground and 12 awg speaker wire, but my battery's stock ground is kinda small. I've been doing a lot of research and ive come to the conclusion that it is the battery ground causing the clip, but if thats not the case should i just hook it up to an amp that can push more power to test it?

 

it was the dome fuse, the bulb in the dome light was blown but i found out it was the fuse when i got pulled over for having no taillights

 

If amp is clipping, find the GAIN knob on the amp. Make sure it's not turned all the way up. For a newbie to this, I'd tell you, you should NEVER turn the gain up more than 25%. There's a defined process to dial-in your gain. Here's the proper process: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-wR2l1iPYYD9/learn/setting-amplifier-gain.html

This may also be interesting: https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/car/subwoofers/tuning.html?g=100

 

thank you, ive been trying to figure out how to tune it properly but ive turned the gain down because i thought that would prevent clipping and fiddled with the bass boost even tho ive heard thats bad, i just think the amp cant push the power im asking it to but ill try out that tutorial once im out of class, i appreciate the help

 

Clipping happens when you’re overloading. That can be a lot of things. Like, your input voltage is high, and the gain bumps that up even higher. Or if you wired your subs incorrectly, like running them in parallel (all positives tied together) and the resulting load is way too fucking high. If you had two subs that were 2ohm for example, and you attached both positives and both negatives to the amp together, it would make a 1-ohm load and many amps can’t handle that.

I suspect one of the two things I just mentioned is your problem but without seeing a pic of your current amp settings and also without understanding how you wired your subs, I dunno.

I’ll just toss this out there also, you need to make sure you ground the amp to a solid, paint-free ground location. Good grounding is just as important as good power. It’s a circuit, a loop, and your power is only as strong as the weakest link. Seeing a pic of how and where you grounded your amp could be good.

 

thats some pretty solid advice, i just grounded my amp to the cab where the little bottle jack was originally held in, i shouldve taken a wire wheel to it on an angle grinder or dremel but no its grounded straight through the paint, ill take a look at that, it never even crossed my mind. If i wired it correctly they should be wired in series so there should be a 4 ohm load on the amp because the subs are 2 ohm each.
again thank you for mentioning the amp ground it slipped my mind entirely ive been so busy with college.

 

No problem.

Sanity check: Do you have a multimeter, something that will measure ohms?

Example of that here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1760#post-3391878

Basically set your multimeter (maybe you can borrow if you don't have one) to resistance/impedance. Then tap the red line to the positive speaker lead, and the black line to the negative. Where does it run out to? Mine are dual voice coil (1ohm each voil), my wiring diagram is in the reply section of the post I just linked. I'm running this into my amp, mono (single left/right) for specific reason.

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A buddy of mine has to have a multimeter, I'll have to check the ohms to make sure it's correctly wired, thanks for the help. Now to measure with the multimeter would I be able to just touch that to the wires or would I have to put it inline with the subs

 

I don't think I've ever tried touching the amp terminal where the speakers are wired.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLuXqDFc1CM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBcGOoRJ4Ro​

 

Just figured out that the clip light on my amp is not for protect mode and actually turns on whenever it clips, will be using this to save my ass

 

Clipping is bad in generally. That's how you fry an amp, and potentially blow a voice coil on your subs. You need to do everything you can to avoid clipping unless you want your shit to die. I personally don't like buying new amps and subs, so I'd be getting that under control.

Don't get me wrong, triggering thermal/overload protection isn't great either, it signals your amp is poorly ventilated and/or overworking. But it won't kill it, necessarily.