What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

The Home Depot

 

Window smash, creative replacement

In all seriousness though, I checked with Leer last week, gave them my serial number, and they confirmed they have windoors for my cap. $350/ea, but still...

 

Dude, I know the cap was $400 for you, but $350 each side for new of what you want…. SOLD

 

My local leer won’t touch my shell. I think yours is newer though. Kind of a good deal if you have options.

 

The front window some way or another. Kinda bugs me but just hadn't looked into it much.

The only place there is an actual seal between bed and topper that I'm aware of is at the front and that's just because I added one.

In all reality, it probably needs the front window assembly removed and re-sealed it just hasn't been something on my priority list. I need to spray it down with a hose at some point and find the real point of entry.

 

How's the Camry rocking now? Can't remember if you fixed the suspension yet

 

I’ve yet to see a FAVR (fixed and variable reimbursement) plan actually cover the cost of a new vehicle. In fact the plan is designed to cover 70% of the vehicle for “business use” and is usually based on a specific vehicle type. For instance my company based our reimbursement plan on a ford edge sized sport utility. So the fixed payment for my area is $485. That part is to include depreciation, taxes, and insurance (good luck getting a new vehicle and insurance for that). The variable is based on the 21mpg the edge gets, so I lose money when I drive my 15.8mpg truck for work. And after 4 years or 100k miles the tax free feature of this benefit goes away, making you choose between the now taxed plan and your now hopefully paid off vehicle, or going out and buying another new vehicle. Be sure to check the plan details carefully and talk to others on the plan for making a big purchase.

 

Which of these 3 do you have for the cab side window:

Solid glass?
Non-removable slider?
Removable slider?

If it’s one of the first two, it’s probably the outer frame based on what I’ve seen. If it’s the latter … there’s about a half dozen ways I see for leaks, and none look fun to fix. That’s the setup I have and based on what I’m seeing, if I ever park the truck nose-up in a rainstorm, I’m probably gonna take on water.

 

Swapped one of the 12” JLs from the wrecked stang into the truck for some bumps for the boy. Pulled the 8” solobaric.

 

Good poppa.

I spent 45min or so this morning trimming my front splash guards in an experiment to keep front flaps while running oversized tires. Thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-mud-flap-splash-guard-mods-for-larger-tires-lift.133574/

 

Just needs some Ford & F250 badges & it'd pass inspection.

 

Then buy one of the first 7 of these American cars.
All the Cars Made in Canada: 2021 | AutoTrader.ca

 

Fixing another problem I didn't know I had. Explains a lot of what's going on with the Taco trailer cap.

 

I may eventually replace the back glass if it's not another $600. The frame-to-window seal is too short and pulling out, and I can tell someone left this thing open and reversed into something. The frame itself is bent just below where the shock rod attaches on both sides. I thought that would be a pain to pull out the rear window unit, because the glass in others I'd seen videos of was riveted in the four lowest points. Then I realized ... these four points I have circled are simple screws with a plastic cap snapped on to make it look like a metal rivet. Awesome! Now I'm contemplating ... knowing I can pull out all the windows and doors pretty easily ... should I just paint it myself? Hmmm..... I'll be buying $150-250 in supplies to do it right. It supposedly costs $400 to have it done professionally at a shop north of ATL ... hmmm....

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how close are you getting to brand new $? Adding in your time, or is that just fun = free?

 

Currently I'm in it for about $500 all-total. That's $400 for the cap and another $100 in lights and seals to refurbish it. But $400 of that came from selling off my OEM wheels, so in my eyes that's a wash, I had that cash in my hands for 4 hours. If I get professional repaint, add $400. If I get windoors, add $350/ea. It'd put me ~$1,600 all-total.

I was looking at $2,400 to get a refurbished paint-matched unit from a dealer that's comparable, or $2,800 new. The latter was before any add-ons, i.e. base model, so more $$ for add-ons this shell already has. And I gotta say, this shell is pretty nicely equipped. If I get exactly what I want for under $1,500 starting with the used shell (+/- $100) I can be cool with that. Especially if I can do it in smaller chunks so it doesn't drain the truck slush fund. Beats dropping $800 more on something new I don't get the "joy" of working on, for a 17yo truck.

Oh, and on a totally different topic ...

Just got this done. Swapped out those three T10 / 194 / 168 bulbs in the center dash with the lifetime-warrantied Sylvania "Zevo" LED 194s that run $10/bulb. This is why I was trying to figure out what to do with the 4th bulb, I bought two 2pk but only used 3 bulbs. I really think the green condoms they put on the OEM halogens are what kills the brightness and makes LEDs look so much friggin brighter.

Now I want to find a good non-directional (frosted) quality T5 LED (T5 / 2721) like the Sylvania ones. And I guess I need to figure out what bulb is behind the dimmer and window heat controls to the left of the steering wheel. I think I'm going to change the map lights and dome light out for something frosted also. LED upgrading on the map lights really sucks, even if you use PHM's trick, I'm hoping a non-directional frosted LED would be better than the LED I've got in there now.

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Deaded 5 cans of surfaces shield on the underbody. Fuckin spray trigger thing off amz works awesome. Stupid fucking 360° hose/ cap from wool wax does not work for shit. Just makes a mess on top of cans. Need a better solution for cavities...thing pisses me the F off! Anyways mostly good coverage.

 

I had the same issue. It doesn't work with Surface Shield. I had to use Fluid Film with that hose.

 

Well shit. Guess I'll pull.it.outta the trash lol. Thanks. So pissed of the mess it made I tossed it.

 

Just quoting this w/o reading ahead. So you work for Catapiller? If they're making you buy American say fuck it and buy a Ford Taurus SHO (y'all knew that was coming). 365 hp is pretty damn fun to drive.

 

Scored some parts for the rebuild at the salvage yard today. Hood, Drivers fender, lock support, limited headlight panels, a pile of oem hardware, and a few other odds and ends for $170 out the door.

Mama didn't raise a two trip sissy boy
fender in left hand and tool bag/dog leash in right hand. got a few funny looks.


The panel gaps will need some work, and there are a few areas that will need some hammer/dollie/filler work before paint. Overall its a great starting point.

 

Instructions for installing the rear cupholder foam insert replacements:
(1) go to junkyard
(2) find whole new console with better foam inserts than yours

Seriously, what a beating. Had to remove the entire center console (mine’s from a 2004 Sequoia), turn it upside down and basically take all the components apart to get those rear cupholder to come apart. Didn’t get a pic because my phone was charging but man that was way less fun than the front ones.

 

I need to replace my front foam inserts. The back ones look fine but one of the front ones is missing a portion. Gotta get those ordered.

 

Replaced the rear door checks with dormans last night, easy peasy. Then realized I forgot to plug in one of the lights inside the damn door

 

Had the same luck with FF. Probably figure out the air compressor deal for next time. You ever apply that way? I know there are tons of videos on it but sometimes those aren't real life for me lol

 

Subs finally installed. I was thinking to myself, "Well hot damn, that only took 2 years, eh?! Then I looked in my email and I bought these in December 2019. Damn, the procrastination is real... Granted, it took me a while to find the right amp, and get other stuff installed but whatever.

I will say ... these Q-Logic boxes are a little tedious to deal with but look pretty polished once installed. Always nice when everything is loaded, then tests out as expected ... using the DMM I found in an e-recycle pile at our building a few months back.

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I had $20K in home repairs in a 3 month period last year. Living in my truck kinda sounds like a relief. There's only so much that can go wrong. Granted, I'd have to shit in the woods and stop by the gym to shower every morning, but it might be worth it.

 

Oil change, Napa 5w-30/Napa gold filter. 1546 on last change, but I do shorter work commutes, it was 6mo ago.
Drain & Fill transmission, (the draining fluid was Pristine/red) Valvoline high mile syn ATF 3.5qt, will check again after a work commute
Clean oil pressure sender
Clean throttle body, sort of, it was spotless
Air up Winter tires/were a bit low
Spray and wipe down the rehabbed steelies with WD40
Spot check engine bay, found a disconnected vac line on the Evap.
Purring like a kitten 292,876 miles

 

Very Nice. Procrastination? Maybe a little, but a very good example of time relativity. Have you noticed Shifty as you are getting older you are accelerating? The more you get behind you, the quicker the ones in front are clicking by? It happens to me all the time in my advanced state. What I thought was a couple years was five and so on, and I spend way too much time pondering weird shit. Anyway, that Q-logic box looks very clean. Too bad they don't fit the DC. You've inspired me to search out a like solution for my single sub.

 

Looks dope, but