Suspeension swap

Hello all, i am planning on changing out my suspension from the TRD to something a little taller. Right now its sitting on 33s and spacers front (2.5”) and rear (2.0”). My goals are to go up trails nicely and i want to also tow a 5k trailer. Just had the local suspension shop look and they quoted me $3581 and they said that they will have to trim the body and possibly do a body mount chop. Does anyone know a way i can tuck the tires without having to cut and chop and maybe have it a little cheaper? Also am thinking about doing the fox racing shocks instead of the bilstein 5100s. Any additional info is helpful thanks.
PS could i just remove the blocks in the rear for now and replace with the HD leaf springs in order to tow? Will attach quote.

 

You should read this and checkout the Suspension, wheel and tires ...
https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

you should add new oem lower ball joints to your list if they haven’t been done.

what wheel/offset and tire will you be running?
What kinda trails are you looking to do?

If you are on a budget you should look into the Bilstein 6112 in the front. Since you are in between the 5100 and the fox.

Checkout these ATS 90-221HD leaf pack for the rear. Shifty speaks highly of them and I have added them to my list.
https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...vy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-both-sides-90-221hd/

save some money and get some tools. Do the labor yourself learn about your truck.

 

Why the effff are the 4wd versions of the springs mo cheap than the 2wd versions of the springs? LOL

 

Hey Jerry, i had the ball joints inspected and shop said they were good for the time being. Do you still think i should replace em to avoid a later headache? Also i have read that thread a bunch trying to soak all the knowledge i can. The wheels i have on have a -12 offset and 4.5 back spacing. Tires are 285/70R17 BF goodrich KO2s…
As for trails I live in washington so im hoping to do some of the BDR routes out here.

ill check out the 6112s and that is the leaf pack im looking at.

What i am unsure of is if those leafs with 5100s, 6112s, fox, etc. will achieve enough lift without chopping the body.

also what tools would i need to do this job. Im not opposed to doing it myself ( and would prefer to) just dont really know what im doing.

 

You need a bigger truck or a smaller trailer. Stock form the best tow rating is only 5400 lbs, and it would be miserable. Adding lift and other mods will only make it worse.

 

Godzilla, my owners manual states that with the tow package capacity is 7k. It does say without that it is less though

 

That's quite a thing they told you, considering I'm on 33s with about 1.5-2" lift up front and none in the rear. I barely rub. Why the hell do they wanna chop your truck up? Don't go back there.

Jerry hit the nail on the head.



https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p793/TundraBilstein61125160.html#/

If you don't know the history of those LBJs, replace them. OEM only with new bolts. As for tools, your basic hand tools, a bfh, a prybar, a torque wrench, and a 2nd set of hands should suffice. If you go much more than 2" consider aftermarket UCAs like SPC or JBA.

 

It is 7k. Make sure your brakes and trans are in good working condition.

 

Word, i have all those tools, but what’s bfh?

 

Big Freakin' Hammer

 

Damn google and its lies!

 

Sweet, i can easily get a big fuckin hammer lol. Are there any references for doing the procedure yourself? Ie youtube videos that yall prefer. Will i need to remove the bed to do the leaves?

 

There's a few out there. Find one you like and roll with it. For the leaves, no bed removal, but if you have a hitch you'll have to remove it to get the rear shakle bolt out.

 

Quit trying to sell people on 2nd-3rd gens! 1st gen best gen!

 

Pfft. Taco is king.

 

This ^^

And make sure it's OEM LBJ.

It would seem the reality is, the shop obviously isn't super familiar with these trucks based on their commentary, although they picked all the typical stuff one would use.

For now, I'd do exactly what you said: Get the new leafs, but also get a LSPV relocation bracket kit. Yoink the blocks and install the springs. Instructions (written) are here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1707#post-3334239

Then start thinking about and planning the rest. Does this height look about like what you're hunting for, but keeping your 33s?

Think about it. You've said you already have a 2.5" spacer in front. If you're running that tall without UCA, then throwing in new 5100s up front with OME 2885 springs will get you in that same ballpark, but I think you'll find (by moving the lift point from above the strut), you may "feel" taller. You shouldn't rub any more than current with the 2.5" puck.

Granted, I *would* recommend going with either the JBA UCA or SPC (wiht Eibach branding to save $$) to help with alignment, knowing the SPC/Eibach arms will allow for waaay more adjustment, assuming you can find a shop confident working with them. Just know what you're up against for install. And if you're planning to do this work yourself, make sure you have a decent quality torque wrench that does up to 100lbft.

This video isn't my favorite video because Josh doesn't do things the way I'd prefer, but it's what's out there that's specific to our trucks, I haven't found a better one yet that covers these specific things. Anyone can do this work, you just need to work SAFELY, have the tools or access to a parts store that does tool rentals, and understand a few basic concepts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2unFVNRry8​

 

I keep forgetting about that bracket. I need one when I switch to the ATS springs. Maybe @JakeJake can make me one.

 

Dude, it's super easy. All you need is 1/8"-3/16" steel plate that's roughly 3/4" wide and 4"-5" long. Two nuts, two bolts, two lock washers. I can take measurements of mine if it'll help.

Pop off your existing LSPV bracket. Take a piece of paper and a shop pencil. Lay the paper over the diff housing, and run the pencil back and forth over it to make a transfer. Lay that over the bracket. Center punch the first holes on one side of your plate. Measure ~1.5" up from the bottom hole, and center punch your next two holes so your pairs of holes are equally apart. Drill your holes. Deburr your edges, paint or treat it if you want.

Use the OEM bolts to attach the bracket to the diff housing. Use the nut/washer/bolt combo to bolt the LSPV pivot mechanism to it, lockwasher on nut side.

 

Did you really? Reported.

 

Absolutely.

 

Let's just beat the dead horse one more time.
ADDING A LIFT TO TOYOTA IFS SUSPENSION DOES NOT HELP YOU FIT LARGER TIRES. Regardless of you suspension choice the front tire will ALWAYS compress to the same a
Spot.

start at time stamp 8:03

https://youtu.be/LAYGdcKSA3o?si=bQ9nxVQpQECih0DZ

enjoy the learning moment. If you're actually gonna be off-roading and are dead set on 33's. You're gonna have to do some work to the inner fenders for sure. Depending on offset of you wheels and all the other variables you will be cutting, hammering different things.

 

...unless you install an extended bumpstop that's the same height as to whatever lift is installed...which is common to do. Maybe not the same height of bumpstop, but their usually a couple inches taller. And lots of the time that's for protecting the shocks from bottoming out on out of the box suspension lift kits. Before i settle on final bumpstop height or shock lengths (both extended and compressed), i'll cycle the suspension (articulate it) and pull my measurements with a tape measure to finalize just exactly what length components to go after.