What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have the DD12's on my 03

 

Same single clips here too. Yes one spreader on top. But 2nd one just came in the mail to add 5hp.

 

Yes suggest one until troubleshoot the sounds. IIRC OEM spreaders are like $2 pair OEM or Advance Auto pins aren't much either.

 

Are the shims greased between the pads and shims? All rust removed and grease at the points on the calipers above and below the pads as shown if look closely in the FSM diagram? This TSB is for Tacoma but shows it in more detail.

 

That's the problem. Stereo is stuck on that track only in reverse.

 

Check out gofastcampers.com
That's a ~ $10,000 rig!

 

just want to let you know I've been running this for a year or so and its been rock solid

 

Mine does the same thing, maybe not quite as pronounced as yours. Toyota master tech told me that's normal on these and laughed. Let me know if you figure something out, but I'm doubting you do. You can back them off some so they don't catch, but then they are probably not adjusted properly.

 

I was scoping the restaurant to see who it belong to.

Yeah, that camper is like $9 - $10k with minamal options and the hitch mount is another grand

 

Company I work for was loading a pallet and dragged it a little too low and caught/ripped my tailgate protector. New one just came in. Paid for by said company.

the bonus is I was missing 2 of 6 screwy clip things and the new one came with them.



the price of these is outlandish.

 

Also who here has rear seat deletes? Pics? Looking for ideas, the rears in my truck literally never get used and I'll be trying to keep them as mint as possible. I'll be yanking them out this weekend and also removing the tailgate entirely (to avoid any future mishaps. And loading/unloading pallets w/ a forklift is wayyyy easier without the tailgate.)

but yea, show me your barren rears

 

Ill try to take a pic when i get home today. Deleted my seats the second day of ownership. With an AC they are useless for passengers and I made a great storage/bench area for my tools and recovery gear and other camping stuff.

 

We have threads for that
AC Rear Seat Delete | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)
First Gen AC Rear Seat Delete | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

This one is my favorite Rear Bench Seat Reduction Mod | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

One thing I just noticed in the FSM replying to another member, I didn't lube right here where the edges of the pad touch the caliper, and the FSM tells you to. I wonder if my squeal is actually coming from the pads rubbing against the caliper right here, on both sides. You can liderally see a black square where the pad plate rubs the dust away from the caliper. I'm gonna kick myself if that's my f'n issue right now. Fortunately I can hit that spot with lub wo/removing the wheel, I think.

​

 

I hope that solves it for you! We are all learning from you troubles, haha

 

Advics kits come with the shims pre-glued to the pad with something like CRC BDQ, which is what I normally use. There was no vented shim I could see. There was virtually no rust I could see. I wiped all faces. And as a reminder, this sound was here both before, and after doing from pads. I'd argue maybe a bit more after the new pads, but ... not much more.

And yes, greased between the shim and piston faces.

Grease points are shown in the FSM here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1979#post-3575486

And pics of before/after, clearly showing no grease in those spots: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/upload_2024-4-26_12-23-20-png.987944/

 

I went with Dirty Deeds on my 03. Easy plug and play.

 

Well what did you notice, gain, see or other wise have to say about it good and bad please

 

Fortunately lots of room to work with in there….

I’ll back up in a bit but highly doubt this will resolve the issue. So next will be sliding the pads out to grease between caliper and leading edge of pad.

 

It's tough to give a fair review. I replaced my old injectors with 230k+ miles and I never rebuilt them or know if they were clogged. However, I don't feel like I noticed a gain. I've been running a little higher octane for winter (88) and the truck seems a bit more responsive and "peppy." Not sure if that is just the fuel, or if the injectors are responsible by atomizing it better. I bought them because I was going to rebuild or buy new injectors and the price was close enough I thought "why not?"
For the price, I'm not sure if I would do it again. Part of my rationale is that the truck is designed to be run on the 4 hole injectors and I wonder about the smaller 12 hole injectors being more prone to clogging since I'm not running high octane fuel (91 or higher).

 

IiRC pulling the wheel is good and then the pads so can get a cotton swab down the caliper the full length of the pad to put a thin coat of grease (without putting it on the rotor). Might need to clean a little scale from the caliper (unless just need to spray off dust) and that can be easier with caliper off. But hopefully they're just ready for grease.

Yeah those arrow in the FSM are not solid so easy to overlook. If it works wouldn't kick yourself but rejoice. Easy no money quick resolution. Good luck!

Also, can't imagine it's the squeelers becuase they don't seem to drag otherwise and are new. But would check they aren't bent near touching for some weird reason.

 

Have you seen a gain in MPGs on your tanks?

 

Nope. Looking at my Fuelly app it has stayed pretty consistent the whole time.
I think you'd be better off doing a good fuel cleaning (redline, seafoam, etc), cleaning the throttle body, and have a fresh air filter. Make sure your tires are properly inflated for more MPG.
For more HP, I'm planning to move to 05/06 VVTI. Ha

 

Oh my fuel system is clean lol. I'm prepping for a turbo kit down the road. There will be an engine built for this. Non VVTI, quad cam, forged positions and Hbeam rods, upgraded bearings,ARP fasteners and about 10 to 15 psi

 

@shifty` looks like there has been contact here and braking while backing up might shift pads to hit there more than going forward due to direction of wheel spin. Those calipers look clean so hope a little dab of grease fixes it!

 

With all those upgrades I'm sure you could benefit from the injectors. Can't wait to see it.

 

I always check squealers before install. Always inspect your parts

I also need to doublecheck screamer. I remember I couldn't recall whether it should go inboard or outboard. I'm pretty sure I went inboard and upward with it, sometimes the dyslexia gets the better of me. If I got them backwards I'll be jacking up the entire front end to swap them anyway...

Definitely, and I just wiped it entirely clean.

When I pulled out a minute ago, I got 1/10th the squeal. Like waaaaaaay reduced. So maybe it was double-clipping that was doubling the sound.

But I also shot that video after not backing out the truck for 3-4 days or more, so I recorded knowing it'd be far louder than normal. I did it on purpose, hoping that video would reveal whether it was rear or front. The more I think about it, though, the more it makes sense it's the front ones making all the racket, and that's why the sound never really got much louder because the camera was outside.

So next on the agenda is confirming pad position, greasing the caliper/pad merge, and I'm also going to slap some grease on any part of the spring clip that is at risk of touching metal.

 

Ooooh, turn your old tail gate and rear seats into a garage couch.

 

All good, nothing bad to report here.

Butt dyno is happy, powerband feels wider.